Full splice jig question

gluton1

Schaller Custom Cues
Silver Member
I'm looking to start building my own full splice cues. Does anybody have any specs or advice on how to build a jig for this? Any help/advice is great is appreciated. Thanks in advance
 
While I'm not a cue maker, (yet) I have watched all of Chris Hightower's videos. In his points and inlays video, he talks about doing full splice butterflies and four point full splice's. He shows a decent setup on a bandsaw, and how to set it up.
 
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This worked perfect untill I got my CNC. If you start building full splice you need to make sure your wood is stable and doesn't move after the splice is glued.
 

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2 types i've seen

The most accurate type I saw was in a gunsmiths shop he used a big pantograph that he also did door set ups with. So the locks would always fit. Schmelke also uses a big bandsaw with wooden jig. mark
 
The way I show in my Point and Inlay DVD is using one of my Deluxe headstocks on a little Jig. This allows me to cut the handle prongs while the handle is round and this makes it much easier to hold your points even. If you do it in the square the jigs are very easy to make, but the points are much harder to keep running straight and even. My jig would be very expensive if you did not have one of my lathes. But if you do, you just borrow the headstock as it slides on and off with only a couple of screws, and the rest of the Jig is only about a $100 to make. Then I cut the forearm grooves on the lathe or mill to match teh handle prongs and I have nice centers in each end. I glue them up using the Deluxe lathe headstock to hold the handle with the tailstock pushing pressure into the center hole. When I take it out the blank spins true between centers and the points are nice and even.
 
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I re-watched your video Chris and I don't remember you saying what angle you set up on when running it through the saw. I may have just missed that part. Can you advise on setup specs for us a little? Thanks!
 
I re-watched your video Chris and I don't remember you saying what angle you set up on when running it through the saw. I may have just missed that part. Can you advise on setup specs for us a little? Thanks!
The angle is up to you. Cut your forearm the way you want it. Then measure the offset needed to match the handle up to the butt. The ones I cut in the DVD were too much angle. I adjusted that and then proceeded to make up several full splice butts with extra long points like I use on my custom cues.
Example is if you set your point taper bar to a .400" offset then and it is 14" long. Then you angle your bandsaw jig to match the .400" over 14". It won't be .400" because you are measuring along the flat angle of the point groove to figure the offset instead of the depth of the V. I forget the formula for that. Just get the two to match within a few thousandths and that is close enough.
 
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