Full spliced cue vs. Not full spliced cue
- Thread starter mazinga74
- Start date
After deciding to have a custom cue made, I researched the internet, then asked players and cue makers to determine "what gave the best hit". My main concern was for the best playing cue and secondly one that is pleasant looking.
Full splice with an ebony forearm and bocote handle was the answer, so I contacted John Dave to make a blank. John sent 20 veneer samples for color selection and sequence selection. John then made the blank to my specs.
I gave the blank to Alex Brick to complete the project. It took 9 months to turn the blankdown several times and for aging to minimize warping. Alex suggested a G-10 pin to balance and keep the weight down to the 18.5 oz. spec. I decided on the American made OB Classic shaft.
It plays great but you can decide on the appeal. Approximate cost $800.
Photo failed to upload.
Full splice with an ebony forearm and bocote handle was the answer, so I contacted John Dave to make a blank. John sent 20 veneer samples for color selection and sequence selection. John then made the blank to my specs.
I gave the blank to Alex Brick to complete the project. It took 9 months to turn the blankdown several times and for aging to minimize warping. Alex suggested a G-10 pin to balance and keep the weight down to the 18.5 oz. spec. I decided on the American made OB Classic shaft.
It plays great but you can decide on the appeal. Approximate cost $800.
Photo failed to upload.
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Full splice or short splice....it's really a matter of preference, not necessarily playability.
I have had the pleasure to play with some very nice playing short spliced cues...as I have full spliced. I prefer full splices because I like a wrapless cue, but I also like points. A wrapless full splice makes for a wonderful canvas to showcase amazing pieces of wood...with exception. It is not well suited to certain woods due to their lack of stability on their own. I am still on the fence with regards to coring a full splice, simply to get a cue from wood that would otherwise be unsuitable.
Many more wood options with a short spliced cue....it allows the maker the ability to add stability to any areas that might require it.
Lisa
I have had the pleasure to play with some very nice playing short spliced cues...as I have full spliced. I prefer full splices because I like a wrapless cue, but I also like points. A wrapless full splice makes for a wonderful canvas to showcase amazing pieces of wood...with exception. It is not well suited to certain woods due to their lack of stability on their own. I am still on the fence with regards to coring a full splice, simply to get a cue from wood that would otherwise be unsuitable.
Many more wood options with a short spliced cue....it allows the maker the ability to add stability to any areas that might require it.
Lisa
I have had a Blackcreek full splice and it was sweet, I do not know about Prewitt but he has a high reputation so i assume he is top notch, I do have a Jerry Rauenzahn full splice and the points are also pointed at the bottom and I like the playability so much I have ordered another from him.
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As you should be. I love it!
Didn't realize we were showing off. Here are a few very special cues I have owned, some are sadly gone now:
Josey Tulipwood FS
Allers Brazilian Bocote FS
Tucker Bois de Rose FS
Josey Ebony FS
Helmstetter 86-06 BEM FS
Lisa
Josey Tulipwood FS
Allers Brazilian Bocote FS
Tucker Bois de Rose FS
Josey Ebony FS
Helmstetter 86-06 BEM FS
Lisa
The US Open and World 9-Ball last year were won with short-splice cues.
Yes.....and Allison and Earl have won everything over the years with cues that have no splices and are decorated with painted plastic? Prices still seem to be determined mostly by the hours any given maker is involved. I really don't know if it takes alot more time to make a full or short splice. I like cues made both ways though.
Blackreek cues
James
I owned and foolishly sold one of Travis's full spliced veneered cues and it was a very fine cue in every way. I wish I still owned it, but that goes for quite a few cues I've owned in my life.
James
Actually I know of no cuemakers or cue manufacturers who actually make full spliced cues with veneers today. A truly full spliced cue would be one piece with no joint like the old Titlist cues. The purpose of the splice was to achieve balance by using heavier tone woods in the bottom spliced with maple shafts in the top. Once you cut the Titlist down, it's no longer a "full splice" cue. There is a big deal placed on the "full splice" terminology which is all just spin. It is more difficult to build a "Full splice butt" but in reality it's no different that what's commonly called a "half splice". There is no difference in the hit, the feel, or whatever you want to call it, it's just in the name and the mental thing. If you're are convinced in your mind that the "full splice" hits better, then you will believe it whether it's any different or not! The mine can play tricks on you!
OK so you start with what you call a full splice, you want to put ringwork above the wrap. You cut the cue at the bottom of the points use a tenon and install the ringwork. Now what do you have?
Ooo, ooo, oooo!!! I know!!!!
And it's not a full splice.This part of the reason I am always leery of those people who say they have a full splice cue...but there's a wrap. Without removing the wrap, in most cases, there simply is no way to truly tell.....save with the Titlists, where, if there is a wrap, but long points, it's not a full splice any longer...it has effectively been converted to a short splice cue. It is one of the reasons I prefer full splice cues to be wrapless....because then there is no dispute.
Lisa
As to the 'benefits' of full splice construction.....they are only gonna be as good as the quality of the blank, and additionally, the woods used in that blank. Some woods transmit feedback much more effectively than others do. The trick is knowing which woods will work best...and then narrowing it down to the right piece of that wood.
I also prefer my FS cues to be naturally weighted...sans weight bolt. Now, not only do you have to find the right piece of wood, but it has to be correct in what it's going to contribute in overall weight and balance.
Making a cue as a full splice is not a guarantee that it's going to play any better than a quality crafted short splice cue will. When done correctly, they should be pretty close to equal in playability.
Lisa
You are missing the point. It makes no difference if the cut is made above or below the points. It's no longer a full spliced cue if the maple shaft comes off. If it's not a one piece cue it can't be a full splice! And there is no real benefit, other that aesthetics. People have been saying for years that "this cue hits just like a one piece cue". Believe me, if a one piece cue really played any better you can bet your ass that most of the pros would be using them. Sure it's easier to carry a two piece cue, but it's not that difficult to carry a one piece if you're intent on doing so. There's just no advantage in doing so! The same goes for full spliced butts. It makes no difference whatsoever, except possibly in your mind!
Now we're getting somewhere. My point is that doing something the harder way does not make it the better way! It does show a particular cuemakers skills in doing difficult tasks but the final product is not better because it's a full splice originally. And as far as me being the only one saying this, maybe in this forum. But this forum has been filled with opinions without any basis from the get-go. It's just common sense that it must be a full one piece cue to be a true full splice! That should be obvious!
The US Open and World 9-Ball last year were won with short-splice cues.
So I would say so what:smile:, as I am sure those, or that winners players win, was 90% skill, ability, focus, and only a small percent tool.
Hell if Allison Fisher loaned me her personal playing Cue for an afternoon of One Pocket playing. I would be willing to bet the Cue did not come with Allison's
skill attached, for me to by some magic have when playing with her Cue.Tools are just that like a pocket knife, and a block of bass wood, some can carve works of art, other are only capable of making piles of wood chips with the same tools. JMHO.
