Fundamentals - Cueing Over Balls

Pidge

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As requested, here are a fee tips to help when hampered by other balls. First things first, understanding why you personally struggle when cueing over a ball is the biggest help for you. Then, you can figure out a way to fix the issue without wasted time trying to fix something that doesn't need fixing.

A common myth around this type of shot is you will never be good at them if you have small hands or short fingers. This is utter rubbish. Some of the best in the world at these kinds of shots have had small hands. My nephew, at 11 years old is able to pocket balls when hampered.

I would like to put a lot of emphasis on the bridge used in these kinds of scenarios. This is the number one reason people miss. The bridge should be strong and stable and form a tripod. The middle finger should be at the front and the index and ring finger behind. What keeps a tripod stable? A wide base. Try placing the tripod bridge then keep the middle finger planted and move the hand back. It should feel like the middle finger is really stretching. Then widen the distance between the index and ring finger. Chances are you can make the tripod much wider than you normally do and this will make it far more stable. The thumb should press firmly against the top knuckle on the index finger to form a solid V. The pinky can do what ever. If it cant touch the table don't worry about it, if it can then by all means place it onto the table to add extra stability. You want to angle your forearm and wrist so the index finger is vertical and the middle finger is forwards slightly. This will allow the cue to run along the V a little easier.

So, why else do people miss? Placing the bridge in the wrong place has to be up there. Don't get down with the tripod already formed. It makes aligning to the shot very tough. Get down as though you're going to hit high on the cue ball to make sure you're aim is right, then slowly raise up to the required elevation whilst forming the tripod. You may have to move the bridge closer or further back, this is a matter of experience and judgement. A little tip though...you can usually get away with a longer bridge than you think. This allows the cue to be more level normally so there shouldn't be any real need to jack right up.

The cue action on these shots needs to be short and precise. Pull back a little bit nice and slowly on your warm up strokes. Again on the actual backswing make it slow and deliberate. On the forward stroke accelerate but try to limit the follow through, especially on shots when the CB is frozen in front of an OB to avoid a double hit. The back hand needs to adjust where it grips the cue when jacked up, just like a jump. Try keeping the elbow and grip on a vertical plane. This is how you normally cue so being jacked up isn't any different. When I'm severely jacked up my grip is just in the middle of joint and wrap so don't be afraid to grip near the joint.

Get the head as close to the cue as possible. The closer the eyes are to the cue the better view you have of how much clearance there is over the obstructing ball. Don't bring the cue closer to the head and chin, bring the head and chin closer to the cue. This ensures you don't elevate the cue more than needed.

When cueing try to keep the elbow fixed. Make the cue go on a straight plane, especially on the follow through.

Don't try doing too much with the shot. If you can get away with rolling the ball in and leaving a longer un-hampered shot on the next ball then just realise that's what the table has dictated and accept it. Understand that the centre of the white chances as you elevate. When fully down what you see as centre ball is intact a miscue or lots of draw when jacked up. Play around with it and get a feel for where the centre is. Then you can accurately play with top and bottom as you get better. I would stick to 1 tip either high or low. Any more and you risk missing the shot.

Shift the weight forward. Not onto the bridge hand but instead onto the front foot. You get a feeling that the cue is free to move easier this way and it tends to stop people...especially me...from snatching at the shot.

What to look at last? I cant answer this. You will need to play around with it. For me, my eyes stay locked on the CB as I pull back, then as I pause they flick to the OB and I pull the trigger. This is how my eyes work on every shot and I've never had the need to change. Others looking at the CB last will increase their percentages, others OB last. If you are a flicker of the eyes between OB-CB then only let the eyes move. You may have to angle the head more to start with but don't do what a lot do and move the head in a slight nodding motion when flicking. Causes the entire body to move and especially the bridge.

Any questions feel free to fire away..

:-)
 
This is the bridge I prefer most of the time to bridge over balls. The same as this picture except you need to lift your wrist up off the table to get the extra height.
 
GREAT ADVICE / INSTRUCTION......:thumbup:
as are all your fundamental threads
 
ktrepal85 said:
This is the bridge I prefer most of the time to bridge over balls. The same as this picture except you need to lift your wrist up off the table to get the extra height.
Click to expand...
I'm not a fan of using this bridge over balls, especially balls that are close or frozen to obstructing balls. Because my pinky is much shorter than my index finger the bridge becomes lop-sided. Plus the pinky is the weakest finger and I don't like giving it a key role. I use the pinky much like a monkey foes when walking along a branch...for stability and balance. Weird comparison but that's all I got :-)

Its worth mentioning that in the picture, the lower the wrist is to the table the more V you have in your bridge...unless you have way more flexible thumbs than I do. When cueing over balls at a steep angle you want to try get the wrist as low as possible to create more V giving the cue a more snug fit.
 
Pidge said:
I'm not a fan of using this bridge over balls, especially balls that are close or frozen to obstructing balls. Because my pinky is much shorter than my index finger the bridge becomes lop-sided. Plus the pinky is the weakest finger and I don't like giving it a key role. I use the pinky much like a monkey foes when walking along a branch...for stability and balance. Weird comparison but that's all I got :-)

Its worth mentioning that in the picture, the lower the wrist is to the table the more V you have in your bridge...unless you have way more flexible thumbs than I do. When cueing over balls at a steep angle you want to try get the wrist as low as possible to create more V giving the cue a more snug fit.
Click to expand...

I have long fingers so I guess that's not an issue. However, it's okay for the bridge to be lop-sided. The stick is only resting on one point so it doesn't matter what height the rest of the hand is at.

Your point about the wrist is correct. The higher the wrist the less of a V. You don't want the wrist higher than necessary. You want it just high enough to get your index and pinky fingers fully vertical. That's all I meant.
 
Thanks for this pidge! This is a trouble spot and you have some great suggestions. How about the back leg? when jacking up a bit over the ball , do you bring it behind the front to give more clearance?
 
frankw said:
Thanks for this pidge! This is a trouble spot and you have some great suggestions. How about the back leg? when jacking up a bit over the ball , do you bring it behind the front to give more clearance?
Click to expand...
No, my stance is exactly the same. Feet are. Little closer to the shot to suit the more upright stance but the footwork is the same.

Lots of people do bring the back foot behind the front. If it helps then do it. As long as the stance, like your bridge is stable nothing else matters.
 
I find it helps a lot if I "practice" making an elevated bridge immediately before getting down on the actual shot. There's usually a clear area of the table within one foot of the CB where I can practice the bridge along the same shot-line as the actual shot.

The other advantage is I can also practice my "elevated bridge stance," since the elevated bridge is going to force a non-conventional stance.
 
ktrepal85 said:
... However, it's okay for the bridge to be lop-sided. The stick is only resting on one point so it doesn't matter what height the rest of the hand is at. ...
Click to expand...
If you have a V channel and it is lop-sided so it looks more towards an L, and your shaft is tapered, the front of the cue will move sideways during the stroke. This might be a problem. If the sides of the V are at the same angle, the stick will rise as it comes forward but not move to the side.
 
ktrepal85 said:
This is the bridge I prefer most of the time to bridge over balls. The same as this picture except you need to lift your wrist up off the table to get the extra height.
Click to expand...
Do you mean with just your index finger and little finger on the table?
 
ktrepal85 said:
I have long fingers so I guess that's not an issue. However, it's okay for the bridge to be lop-sided. The stick is only resting on one point so it doesn't matter what height the rest of the hand is at.

Your point about the wrist is correct. The higher the wrist the less of a V. You don't want the wrist higher than necessary. You want it just high enough to get your index and pinky fingers fully vertical. That's all I meant.
Click to expand...
As Bob said, if the bridge is lop sided either way the V channel isn't as secure as it could be and allows the cue to move sideways for too easily.
 
The biggest key, I believe, is getting over the ball correctly, and then a short follow through.
 
Bob Jewett said:
I think a tripod is more stable. It looks like two fingers aren't doing anything.
Click to expand...

That is a tripod bridge, hence the three supports:

Support #1: Pinky Finger
Support #2: Index Finger
Support #3: Middle & Ring Finger

Which two fingers aren't doing anyting??
 
There are three or four different bridges that all work pretty well in this situation. The reason I favor that bridge in my picture is because it allows you to setup much closer to the object ball if you need to. If there are two object balls you can actually have one ball directly under the bridge. All of the other bridges have a finger pushed out forward ahead of the bridge which makes you setup further from the ball.
 
Pidge said:
As requested, here are a fee tips to help when hampered by other balls. First things first, understanding why you personally struggle when cueing over a ball is the biggest help for you. Then, you can figure out a way to fix the issue without wasted time trying to fix something that doesn't need fixing.

A common myth around this type of shot is you will never be good at them if you have small hands or short fingers. This is utter rubbish. Some of the best in the world at these kinds of shots have had small hands. My nephew, at 11 years old is able to pocket balls when hampered.

I would like to put a lot of emphasis on the bridge used in these kinds of scenarios. This is the number one reason people miss. The bridge should be strong and stable and form a tripod. The middle finger should be at the front and the index and ring finger behind. What keeps a tripod stable? A wide base. Try placing the tripod bridge then keep the middle finger planted and move the hand back. It should feel like the middle finger is really stretching. Then widen the distance between the index and ring finger. Chances are you can make the tripod much wider than you normally do and this will make it far more stable. The thumb should press firmly against the top knuckle on the index finger to form a solid V. The pinky can do what ever. If it cant touch the table don't worry about it, if it can then by all means place it onto the table to add extra stability. You want to angle your forearm and wrist so the index finger is vertical and the middle finger is forwards slightly. This will allow the cue to run along the V a little easier.

So, why else do people miss? Placing the bridge in the wrong place has to be up there. Don't get down with the tripod already formed. It makes aligning to the shot very tough. Get down as though you're going to hit high on the cue ball to make sure you're aim is right, then slowly raise up to the required elevation whilst forming the tripod. You may have to move the bridge closer or further back, this is a matter of experience and judgement. A little tip though...you can usually get away with a longer bridge than you think. This allows the cue to be more level normally so there shouldn't be any real need to jack right up.

The cue action on these shots needs to be short and precise. Pull back a little bit nice and slowly on your warm up strokes. Again on the actual backswing make it slow and deliberate. On the forward stroke accelerate but try to limit the follow through, especially on shots when the CB is frozen in front of an OB to avoid a double hit. The back hand needs to adjust where it grips the cue when jacked up, just like a jump. Try keeping the elbow and grip on a vertical plane. This is how you normally cue so being jacked up isn't any different. When I'm severely jacked up my grip is just in the middle of joint and wrap so don't be afraid to grip near the joint.

Get the head as close to the cue as possible. The closer the eyes are to the cue the better view you have of how much clearance there is over the obstructing ball. Don't bring the cue closer to the head and chin, bring the head and chin closer to the cue. This ensures you don't elevate the cue more than needed.

When cueing try to keep the elbow fixed. Make the cue go on a straight plane, especially on the follow through.

Don't try doing too much with the shot. If you can get away with rolling the ball in and leaving a longer un-hampered shot on the next ball then just realise that's what the table has dictated and accept it. Understand that the centre of the white chances as you elevate. When fully down what you see as centre ball is intact a miscue or lots of draw when jacked up. Play around with it and get a feel for where the centre is. Then you can accurately play with top and bottom as you get better. I would stick to 1 tip either high or low. Any more and you risk missing the shot.

Shift the weight forward. Not onto the bridge hand but instead onto the front foot. You get a feeling that the cue is free to move easier this way and it tends to stop people...especially me...from snatching at the shot.

What to look at last? I cant answer this. You will need to play around with it. For me, my eyes stay locked on the CB as I pull back, then as I pause they flick to the OB and I pull the trigger. This is how my eyes work on every shot and I've never had the need to change. Others looking at the CB last will increase their percentages, others OB last. If you are a flicker of the eyes between OB-CB then only let the eyes move. You may have to angle the head more to start with but don't do what a lot do and move the head in a slight nodding motion when flicking. Causes the entire body to move and especially the bridge.

Any questions feel free to fire away..

:-)
Click to expand...


You're the man, Pidge! I'm going to try a few things you suggested here. I'll keep you updated. Thanks!
 
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