GC 1 Tangerine Skirts

Buster8001

Buster8001

Did you say shrubberies?
Silver Member
Figured I'd post here, as I know most mechanics collect parts.
If anyone runs across a donor 9ft Brunswick Gold Crown, I'm looking to purchase a set of the tangerine skirts. I'll cover all shipping expenses, as well.
 
Buster8001 said:
Figured I'd post here, as I know most mechanics collect parts.
If anyone runs across a donor 9ft Brunswick Gold Crown, I'm looking to purchase a set of the tangerine skirts. I'll cover all shipping expenses, as well.
Click to expand...

You can paint yours, you know! Someone posted the paint codes for the original colors on here somewhere.
 
jviss said:
You can paint yours, you know! Someone posted the paint codes for the original colors on here somewhere.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've spoken to him at length regarding the paint codes. The problem is that I'm horrible at painting, and I do not own a paint gun. So if I'm paying someone else to do it, I might as well see if I can find a set of originals. Figured I'd just see if I can find any laying around in a mechanics garage.
 
I hear you. Actually, in my opinion, painting these isn't so hard, and you don't need a spray gun. You're not trying to achieve an automotive-type finish, it's more like painting your walls at home. Get an eggshell or semi-gloss, and "roll and tip" - roll it on and smooth and finish it up with a good brush. People have achieved remarkably good finishes this way, including high-gloss Imron and Awlgrip on boats.

Other than that, you coud bring them to a body shop with the paint, or send them to someone willing to paint them for you.

Just thinking out loud.
 
jviss said:
I hear you. Actually, in my opinion, painting these isn't so hard, and you don't need a spray gun. You're not trying to achieve an automotive-type finish, it's more like painting your walls at home. Get an eggshell or semi-gloss, and "roll and tip" - roll it on and smooth and finish it up with a good brush. People have achieved remarkably good finishes this way, including high-gloss Imron and Awlgrip on boats.

Other than that, you coud bring them to a body shop with the paint, or send them to someone willing to paint them for you.

Just thinking out loud.
Click to expand...

Appreciate it, bub. I really do. All good ideas. I didn't know it was that "easy"; thought for sure I'd need to spray. I'll give it some thought.
 
Buster8001 said:
Appreciate it, bub. I really do. All good ideas. I didn't know it was that "easy"; thought for sure I'd need to spray. I'll give it some thought.
Click to expand...

"Easy" depends on the finish you are trying to achieve. As I said, I've seen 36, 40, 45' sailboats painted with $250+ per gallon polyester paints using roll and tip that came out with a mirror finish, virtually indistinguishable from a spray job, until you look real close.

My GCI aprons are a semigloss gray, and I'm pretty sure, from looking very closely, that they were painted with a roller or brush (or both). I think they look great! If I were to change the color I'd go to Sherwin Williams and get a quart of semigloss latex and have at it.

By the way, I tried to buy the white according to the paint codes the gentleman posted, and I couldn't get exactly what I wanted, as those are for a contractor grade paint that's only available to contractors, and in gallons, at about $70/gallon. I only wanted a quart. So, it was done on a different tint base, so it might not match exactly.

I'd like to hear what you ultimately decide to do.
 
I would stay away from rolling or brushing. You will be up close to the table so you will see virtually every imperfection. You could contract an experienced house painter to shoot the aprons for you if you do not want to invest in a quality airless spray gun. I used Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel in Semi Gloss on my aprons and they came out great. I had my house painter lay down a perfect finished and I'm very pleased with the results. You are going to be hard pressed to find a blemish free set of original aprons. Your best be is to repaint yours. If you are going to take a crack at them yourself, I recommend the Graco TC Pro.

48873987567_b54ac6ce6d_b.jpg


48880707546_4cd1e0eb69_c.jpg


48880176403_c1dda73d34_c.jpg
 
jviss said:
Check out this roll and tip job. I'd say it's a bit smoother and glossier than your spray job! :)

attachment.php


Here's a great video on how to do it, by Alec Brainerd of Artisan Boatworks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k1DbGFsLgo

Granted, it could have a lot to do with the quality of the material, but there you are.
Click to expand...

Quite amazing and everything to do with the quality of the material and surface prep. You will not get those results rolling and tipping the Sherwin Williams product. If you can get the paint mixed to the Brunswick colors, it is worth a try.
 
I wish I would have know about this paint 4 months ago. I would have given it a go.
 
Hand Painted

Hand painted by roller and brush. Wet sanded finish to 4000. Smooth as a baby's ass.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4258 2.jpg
    IMG_4258 2.jpg
    196 KB · Views: 283
pogmothoin said:
No polishing. Benjamin Moore Advance paint. Takes a long time to dry between coats but has good leveling characterics.
Click to expand...

Nice!

The Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel has excellent leveling characteristics as well. It sprays on with a ton of orange peel but lays flat as it dries.

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/emerald-urethane-trim-enamel

My buddy tried brushing but not all the strokes leveled out; not sure of the quality of the brush he used. Rolling then tipping may very well work with this paint.

I'd be curious to see what kind of sheen you'd get if you hand rubbed some wax or polish on the aprons.
 
That does look like really nice self-leveling paint. I wonder how much it is?

I wouldn't have needed a clear coat if I'd have used that, even though mine turned out okay.
 
dlvh said:
That does look like really nice self-leveling paint. I wonder how much it is?

I wouldn't have needed a clear coat if I'd have used that, even though mine turned out okay.
Click to expand...

Looks like about $21 to $28 per quart. About double the Sherwin Williams stuff.
 
There are certain paints that have an extended open drying time in which the paint will lay flat and look clean. Google and some homework will give you all the instructions you will need as it's not hard to get that piano finish.

You can grab a jug of Floetrol which when added to any latex paint and brushed on with any decent nylon/poly brush will give you amazing results. I usually add more than what is instructed, which will open the time even more but give you super flat smooth results. Grab a can of gloss polyurethane, lacquer and apply thin multiplayer coats. You could even buy a can of clear shellac in which you can hand rub and polish after to get a super shine. :thumbup:

GetAzureFile.aspx
 
Rolling, or Brushing on paint isn't really all that hard on theses panels, seeings they are mostly flat, IMHO. The trick that I found is, that you'd like the panels and paint, to be nice and warm. Paint flows better when warm, and even better on warm objects, but don't paint in direct sun...found that out the hard way many years ago.

The key is the preparation before putting on the paint. There's tons of information on how to get the Perfect Paint Job on the interwebs, besides the video links previously posted in this thread.

Anyway, please keep us abreast on what you end up doing.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top