GC III finish

Thanks for posting the pics. Absoluely a beautiful table - you did a great job in restoring it. I like the green cloth (very traditional) but I would have done it in Tournament Blue. It gets my heart a racing. But, since it's your table - the green is outstanding. You can kick back now and enjoy playing on it with your friends and family. A great investment.
 
Do you mind telling us what stain and spray paint you used? The table looks amazing!
 
Do you mind telling us what stain and spray paint you used? The table looks amazing!

I believe he stated earlier in thread he used minwax red mahogany stain with 2 coats of semi-gloss minwax poly applied via foam brush. I have no clue what he used on casings and won't guess, however dupli color makes a product called "metalcast" that may work.
 
Do you mind telling us what stain and spray paint you used? The table looks amazing!

I used four coats of Rustoleum Metallic Copper. It is very durable. My table gets a minimum of 15 hours use a week and it's held up well over the past 7 months. At $6 a can you really can't go wrong :grin:
 
Castings

I personally went to four different powdercoating shops here in Vegas with the same set of castings and feet (10 pieces total) per table to get ballpark bids on the powdercoating, with the first three giving me the same results that you got. $225 -$300 per 10 piece set.

Discouraged, I still went to the last one on my list with a glimmer of hope......and whatttya know. Finally a shop with my kind of pricing. Less than $100 per table for all ten pieces.

The guy even asked if I had more pieces because my small job wouldn't meet the $125 minimum. I told him I had other tables also and I would be back in the morning with 2 tables worth. I went there this morning and dropped them off 20 pieces and he said he'll have them for me tomorrow evening before closing!!!!

Cross my fingers and wait but I might have found the guy we've been lookin' for. I'll post before and after pic's over the weekend if I get the castings back tomorrow.

Gordon
LAS VEGAS
425-275-8255

Headin' down to watch Alex & Viffer

Hey putt did you ever get your castings powdercoated? If so, were they only a $100 & can you post some pics? :)
 
Great Stuff

I just bought a GC III myself and will be looking to doing all of this. Great stuff, looks great.
 
long ago i bought a GC1 that was painted white and it also had decades of pool hall smoke patina. i stripped it, sanded then applied some walmart wood stain then put on thick coats of polyurethane gloss. i also painted the pocket castings with two part epoxy, gloss black because i was tired of the aluminum rubbing off on my pants.
 

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Yes I got them powdercoated for $100

Hey putt did you ever get your castings powdercoated? If so, were they only a $100 & can you post some pics? :)

Yes I did finally get 3 sets of my Gold Crown castings powder coated. They turned out great!! I dropped them off and had them back in a couple of days. The castings that I had done were for GC1's that I have for sale and I always paint the sideskirts and bases black. Therefor I had the castings done in what the guy called "nickle-hammered" finish or maybe nickle-vein? anyway they have a black basecoat with a hammered nickle or silver finish. They turned out really sweet. I went with the hammered because I'm too cheap to pay the extra for all the prep work to get my castings smooth. they were all scratched and pitted up pretty ugly but not anymore. I'm actually spending the weekend hunting for my GC#3 castings that I'm going to have done in the "penny-hammered or vein", I've moved across the country twice in the last five years so I have a hundred boxes to check. But I know inside one of them is a nice suprise, my GC3 castings and a set of "new-old stock" castings for a GC1. Sounds like a rewarding EASTER hunt!!! I'll try to post pics over the weekend. I got 3 sets of castings done, 30 pieces, (6 castings and 4 feet per table) for $300.

Call me if you want to send yours here and we can run them together, otherwise its $125 minumum if there's only 1 set which is still pretty good.

Gordon Graham
Las Vegas
425-275-8255
 
That table looks so nice I had to register and respond instead of still lurking and just reading. Perfect color stain and gorgeous finish on everything there jnyrad.

I'm refinishing a GC2 I just got for a steal of a deal because it looks trashed and is. (Paid almost the same price for my whole table as the cheap plating minimum mentioned above) and I seriously wish I'd seen this thread earlier. I just spent the last week sanding (by hand, no powertools) all the old paint, plating, and scratches out of my castings and legs and polishing them back to shiny and new. My hands barely work now, and now the side rub rails seem even harder to sand and polish, like the plating on them is tougher but they have millions of deep scratches I have to polish out. Have to go deeper than the plating that is on them and totally remove it like I did on the other parts but there must be an easier way.

Anyone got a hint to make that sanding and polishing any easier? Even if I have to go buy a tool I'm up for it. I actually have sanders a cheapo belt and finishing palm type and dremel and angle grinder etc but nothing did an acceptable job of keeping a consistant original shape of the surfaces, made things uneven on the round castings etc, or seemed too scary to try which is why I sanded and polished by hand. Now that I've done all the polishing I might as well do all the side rub rails or whatever they're called... But even though they are mostly flat even my flat palm sander try's to round the edges on them, so back to thinking I'm going to have to do it by hand.

Did you do anything with those jnyrad, the long strips that hold the skirts, you don't mention painting them and they don't really show up in your pic. Is there a more detailed thread on your rebuild?

It looks like someone attacked mine with a studded very hard steel belt buckle for about 46 years, even though the formica on my table doesn't show much of any wear at all... weird...

If anyone reading this knows where to point me for the right info I have a cracked off whole corner on two slate pieces... cracks are in the playfield inches in front of the pockets. Part of why it was practically free.

Whoever worked on this table before me put rail cloth over the area where it supposed to go on all the rails making it bunch up and hold the rails all too high and uneven, and probably overtightened the rails too and snap... One he must have tried to glue on with what looks like jbweld and he didn't even align it properly so I'm going to have to figure out some way to cut it back off and fix it right or try to find a solvent that will eat epoxy or whatever glue he used. It has a lip you can easily feel where the corner piece is glued on too high.

If I get this lookiing anything like yours jnrad I'll be happy to find a pro on here to give her some simonis cloth when I can swing it, but for now I don't have the cash to pay anyone to do anything. I could only buy the table because it was cheap and unemployed or not, broken and beat up or not I had to have it. I had that much in the change jar and figure worst case scenario if I can't fix the slate I can part it out for more than I have into it or buy another slate set later. Alignment pins in the slate are all busted and bent too, they're going to have to go and I guess just assemble like non pin registed slate and bondo that up for now.

Would you guys Bondo the corner pieces back on while clamping them to some straightedge or do something else? (For those who do these kinds of repairs.) You pro's might laugh at me trying to save this table when everything on it needs to be rebuilt replaced or refinished, and say it's not worth fixing with 5 piece slate but I am compelled to fix this thing I've wanted a gold crown forever and this is all I can afford so I must make do with what I have. It may not play nice as a good one set up by a pro when I'm done with it, but it will have to do until I can afford better.


Also all the plastic pockets are cracked and need relacement, and I think I recall hearing a way to flush mount gc5 pockets, maybe it required a little routing out an edge in the castings? Anyone know where a thread detailing that is I don't like how the standard pockets stick up so much, especially the center pockets, so certainly don't just want to replace them with new stock ones. I'm also worried about getting cheap ones that would leave rub marks on my cue or balls so which brand or where to get good black mark free flush mount pockets?

Sorry to ask so many questions in your thread op, I think those pics jnyrad posted got me way too excited about how good this could actually end up looking even though it's a busted pile of junk atm. Those pics look as good as porn to me right about now. No I think better than porn actually. I've look at many gold crown pics refinished several different ways, and that's the prettiest one yet.

Would my gc2 look that nice stripped of it's white paint on the skirts and base or is that a different veneer than mine? I see yours started as stained, maybe your wood is better? My wood looks cheaper. The manufacture date written on the tag on mine says 4/20/1964 if that means anything. .

I must make this look that good even if I have to sand until my fingers bleed. :)
 
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PUTT.....you asked the question I was trying to avoid :cool: I will show you what my castings looked like, but more importantly what my feet looked like. In short I sanded them down with the orbital & then painted (yes I said PAINTED them). I couldn't bring myself to spend the $250 on powder coating them. I'm spend thrifty, what can I say. Anyhow, here is the evidence. Criticize as you see fit :frown:

Nice job on the castings and feet. You didn't miss much by not powder coating them since you were trying to match to the original color/finish. Trying to get back to original is really difficult with powder coating because the castings are made from pot metal. I believe the problem is that all areas of the part doesn't heat and cool at uniform rates so bubbles occur in the paint. That's why many powder coaters suggest going with a textured, wrinkled or pebbled finish so the bubbling doesn't show as much, and darker color is better.
 
That table looks so nice I had to register and respond instead of still lurking and just reading. Perfect color stain and gorgeous finish on everything there jnyrad.

I'm refinishing a GC2 I just got for a steal of a deal because it looks trashed and is. (Paid almost the same price for my whole table as the cheap plating minimum mentioned above) and I seriously wish I'd seen this thread earlier. I just spent the last week sanding (by hand, no powertools) all the old paint, plating, and scratches out of my castings and legs and polishing them back to shiny and new. My hands barely work now, and now the side rub rails seem even harder to sand and polish, like the plating on them is tougher but they have millions of deep scratches I have to polish out. Have to go deeper than the plating that is on them and totally remove it like I did on the other parts but there must be an easier way.

Anyone got a hint to make that sanding and polishing any easier? Even if I have to go buy a tool I'm up for it. I actually have sanders a cheapo belt and finishing palm type and dremel and angle grinder etc but nothing did an acceptable job of keeping a consistant original shape of the surfaces, made things uneven on the round castings etc, or seemed too scary to try which is why I sanded and polished by hand. Now that I've done all the polishing I might as well do all the side rub rails or whatever they're called... But even though they are mostly flat even my flat palm sander try's to round the edges on them, so back to thinking I'm going to have to do it by hand.

Did you do anything with those jnyrad, the long strips that hold the skirts, you don't mention painting them and they don't really show up in your pic. Is there a more detailed thread on your rebuild?

It looks like someone attacked mine with a studded very hard steel belt buckle for about 46 years, even though the formica on my table doesn't show much of any wear at all... weird...

If anyone reading this knows where to point me for the right info I have a cracked off whole corner on two slate pieces... cracks are in the playfield inches in front of the pockets. Part of why it was practically free.

Whoever worked on this table before me put rail cloth over the area where it supposed to go on all the rails making it bunch up and hold the rails all too high and uneven, and probably overtightened the rails too and snap... One he must have tried to glue on with what looks like jbweld and he didn't even align it properly so I'm going to have to figure out some way to cut it back off and fix it right or try to find a solvent that will eat epoxy or whatever glue he used. It has a lip you can easily feel where the corner piece is glued on too high.

If I get this lookiing anything like yours jnrad I'll be happy to find a pro on here to give her some simonis cloth when I can swing it, but for now I don't have the cash to pay anyone to do anything. I could only buy the table because it was cheap and unemployed or not, broken and beat up or not I had to have it. I had that much in the change jar and figure worst case scenario if I can't fix the slate I can part it out for more than I have into it or buy another slate set later. Alignment pins in the slate are all busted and bent too, they're going to have to go and I guess just assemble like non pin registed slate and bondo that up for now.

Would you guys Bondo the corner pieces back on while clamping them to some straightedge or do something else? (For those who do these kinds of repairs.) You pro's might laugh at me trying to save this table when everything on it needs to be rebuilt replaced or refinished, and say it's not worth fixing with 5 piece slate but I am compelled to fix this thing I've wanted a gold crown forever and this is all I can afford so I must make do with what I have. It may not play nice as a good one set up by a pro when I'm done with it, but it will have to do until I can afford better.


Also all the plastic pockets are cracked and need relacement, and I think I recall hearing a way to flush mount gc5 pockets, maybe it required a little routing out an edge in the castings? Anyone know where a thread detailing that is I don't like how the standard pockets stick up so much, especially the center pockets, so certainly don't just want to replace them with new stock ones. I'm also worried about getting cheap ones that would leave rub marks on my cue or balls so which brand or where to get good black mark free flush mount pockets?

Sorry to ask so many questions in your thread op, I think those pics jnyrad posted got me way too excited about how good this could actually end up looking even though it's a busted pile of junk atm. Those pics look as good as porn to me right about now. No I think better than porn actually. I've look at many gold crown pics refinished several different ways, and that's the prettiest one yet.

Would my gc2 look that nice stripped of it's white paint on the skirts and base or is that a different veneer than mine? I see yours started as stained, maybe your wood is better? My wood looks cheaper. The manufacture date written on the tag on mine says 4/20/1964 if that means anything. .

I must make this look that good even if I have to sand until my fingers bleed. :)

Oregon, thanks for the praise & kind words. Are you talking about the aluminum pieces that are on the sides of the rails? If so I didn't do anything with those. It looks like the previous owner had attempted to polish them with some steel wool. As far as the wood goes I would strip it down to bare wood on the skirts & see what you end up with. As far as the base is concerned the end piece I have circled is solid wood on both sides.
12.jpg

The rest of the base is veneered plywood & I woudn't try sanding that. Maybe try a chemical stripper on a section that you wouldn't be able to see like the inside top where the stretcher attaches & see how that looks. I have seen people strip just the ends & stain them & then just paint the plywood sections. Like in this thread by servicky. http://forums2.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=216997
 
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Thanks for the tips. I plan to chemical strip and see what I have to work with.

Yea I've seen people do the natural sides and black plywood before, and that looks great. But if mine doesn't look good underneath that paint then my backup plain is to just sand smooth and paint the whole thing in a green just like these and put those same decals on:

I really like the look of this in my head with blinds, legs and stretcher all in this green and mirror polished chrome for all the metal bits.
In fact looking at the second table on the left in this pic you can kind of picture it that way, all one color and chrome trim.
 

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