GC III Leveling

R

Reaboy

Registered
I am chasing my tail here leveling my GC....

First off, I used RKC's method and my values at the end to middle frame leveling were:
L1-L7 3 marks high pointing to L7
L13-L7 3 marks high pointing to L7
R1-R7 1.5 marks high pointing to R7
R13-R7 1.5 marks high pointing to R7

Okay, so think we are good here with a frame level end to end and side to side although it is not swaybacked, but arched on both side, more on the left.

Proceed to leveling and flushing slates to each other and got the following diagram.....the arrows show the short machinist level readings in bubble leve marks with arrow to high side per RKC's document

slatediagram.jpg


Notice the left side at the head has a crowned slate between the corner pocket and the middle slate seam.

Also, the left foot corner has a 2.5 mark rise near the pocket. I have a few shims around this corner that come from both left side ends having 3 marks of droop. To get that end slate up took about 3/16" of lift off the frame at the corner......

Any ideas on what I might do here?

Todd
 
Reaboy said:
I am chasing my tail here leveling my GC....

First off, I used RKC's method and my values at the end to middle frame leveling were:
L1-L7 3 marks high pointing to L7
L13-L7 3 marks high pointing to L7
R1-R7 1.5 marks high pointing to R7
R13-R7 1.5 marks high pointing to R7

Okay, so think we are good here with a frame level end to end and side to side although it is not swaybacked, but arched on both side, more on the left.

Proceed to leveling and flushing slates to each other and got the following diagram.....the arrows show the short machinist level readings in bubble leve marks with arrow to high side per RKC's document

slatediagram.jpg


Notice the left side at the head has a crowned slate between the corner pocket and the middle slate seam.

Also, the left foot corner has a 2.5 mark rise near the pocket. I have a few shims around this corner that come from both left side ends having 3 marks of droop. To get that end slate up took about 3/16" of lift off the frame at the corner......

Any ideas on what I might do here?

Todd
Click to expand...

Is it a GC4 frame?
 
GC3 I am pretty sure.......It looks exactly like the GC3 frame in the pdf. assembly file.

I think the foot end slate is a mismatch. There are no markings that make any sense on the bottom of any of the slates, but the foot slate has backer boards that have the routered groove in a different location, than the other two slates. That likely doesn't guarantee that the don't match, but sure makes me wonder.

I pulled the slates and got it dialed in a bit better and glued and bondo'd, but the crowns in the slates that I can't pull down do curve a rolling ball. I am going to go ahead and install the cloth and build and see if we can live with it (teaching 3 boys 8-13 yr how to play). I can always tear back into it later.

The table was stored for five years, and the slates leaned on their individual long edges w/ playing surface toward wall. That may explain the crowns between say R3-R5, and L3-L5.

I have learned a bunch on this, and although it may not be a very good setup at the moment, we are going to go with it for now and get a few months on the table.

Others have suggested setting some weights on the individual crowns on the slates while not playing to pull them down.

Thanks much
Todd
 
Glenn,

Here are the new numbers....

I am using machine screws and locknuts, and the black boxes represent shim locations. I did some shimming underneath outside of the center to tweak to flush with higher slate.

I definitely got frustrated and got ahead of myself here and went ahead and glued and bondo'd, but am completely prepared to pull them apart again.

slatediagramunlevel2.jpg


The readings w/ starrett around the edges are inside a bit at the shadow of the rails...I figured that is a more relevant location than the outside edge - maybe that is wrong. How far out is still okay on these crowns?...a slow rolled ball will take off, sometimes a full 90 degree turn - doesn't seem like adding the friction of felt will attenuate that much.

The crowns toward the centers of the slates (skinny direction) concern me...since there seems no way to tweak that without more screws. This table was stored for many years leaning against a wall long side of each slate down and playing surface toward wall. Makes sense that they are tweaked that way.

There seem to be no relevant marking under the slates identifying as related. The foot slate has backer boards that have the routered groove in a different location than the head or center slates. Makes me wonder if that is a mismatched slate. This table was from a hall, and then privately owned, and then had been stored for about 5 years.

As has been said many times, your help on this site is greatly appreciated. I would never have attempted this without your instructions, and although incredibly frustrating, if I can get it good enough to play, then it is all worth it because of what I learned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top