GC III - Table Height

S

Sporto

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
6 months ago I had a GC III setup and the table seems shorter than most that I play on especially when I'm wearing shoes. Top of the slate is about 28.5" from the floor. I believe regulation minimum height is right around 29" with 31" being the max. I would like to get mine to 30" what would be the best way to do this?

The leg feet are adjustable but it seems if I raise the table to 30" that the legs thus the table would become awfully wobbly? Can I keep the leg inserts screwed down short for stability and just jack the table up and place some 2" thick and 6" square concrete, marble or wood squares under each leg and not have to worry about settling issues?

Are there any competent table mechanics in the Alexandria, MN area as the fella that did mine is a know-it-all hack that also ruined the taper and ferule on my 314 shaft replacing a tip. If so please PM me with your contact info. I need my new Simonis 860 re-stretched on bed and probably the rails as they are puckered, a popped slate joint leveled, rails reglued in 4 places, new rail counters installed and table roll off on one end corrected (3 lines off on one of those fancy 12" super sensitive levels that you store in a wooden box).
 
Sporto said:
6 months ago I had a GC III setup and the table seems shorter than most that I play on especially when I'm wearing shoes. Top of the slate is about 28.5" from the floor. I believe regulation minimum height is right around 29" with 31" being the max. I would like to get mine to 30" what would be the best way to do this?

The leg feet are adjustable but it seems if I raise the table to 30" that the legs thus the table would become awfully wobbly? Can I keep the leg inserts screwed down short for stability and just jack the table up and place some 2" thick and 6" square concrete, marble or wood squares under each leg and not have to worry about settling issues?

Are there any competent table mechanics in the Alexandria, MN area as the fella that did mine is a know-it-all hack that also ruined the taper and ferule on my 314 shaft replacing a tip. If so please PM me with your contact info. I need my new Simonis 860 re-stretched on bed and probably the rails as they are puckered, a popped slate joint leveled, rails reglued in 4 places, new rail counters installed and table roll off on one end corrected (3 lines off on one of those fancy 12" super sensitive levels that you store in a wooden box).
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Sporto, I don't think you need to put anything under the leg levelor to raise it. Raise it and check it, use a bottle jack, raise it from the frame by the side pocket, Raise it slow and steady and only what you need. If you feel the table is wobbly then shim the leg. The nut plate in the leg that the leg levelor screws into is only about 3/8" thick and the leg levelor stem is a 3-4 inches, so backing the leg levelor out a few inches shouldn't matter. Your table being 3 lines out on a machinist level is too much. On a GC you should be able to get it near perfect.
 
SD,
Thanks for the advice on the leg levelers, you don't think the table's stability will be compromised by screwing out each leg leveler to about 1/2 of their total travel, right now they are pretty much screwed down tight and as short as they can be.

Yes I agree 3 lines off is enough to affect play and is unacceptable.

I am still looking for a good Table Mechanic, anyone??
 
If there screwed in all the way, you be fine. I wouldn't think twice about it on the job. There's a directory with a sticky at the top. Also, Glen covers most of the US.
 
Sporto said:
6 months ago I had a GC III setup and the table seems shorter than most that I play on especially when I'm wearing shoes. Top of the slate is about 28.5" from the floor. I believe regulation minimum height is right around 29" with 31" being the max. I would like to get mine to 30" what would be the best way to do this?

The leg feet are adjustable but it seems if I raise the table to 30" that the legs thus the table would become awfully wobbly? Can I keep the leg inserts screwed down short for stability and just jack the table up and place some 2" thick and 6" square concrete, marble or wood squares under each leg and not have to worry about settling issues?

Are there any competent table mechanics in the Alexandria, MN area as the fella that did mine is a know-it-all hack that also ruined the taper and ferule on my 314 shaft replacing a tip. If so please PM me with your contact info. I need my new Simonis 860 re-stretched on bed and probably the rails as they are puckered, a popped slate joint leveled, rails reglued in 4 places, new rail counters installed and table roll off on one end corrected (3 lines off on one of those fancy 12" super sensitive levels that you store in a wooden box).
Click to expand...
I'll be passing right through Alexandria, MN within the next 7-10 days, call me if you'd like.

Glen 702-927-5689
 
Dartman said:
Did you get caught up in the Wayne Mans job in NJ and his 15 yr old Simonis?
We did - don't know how really other then answering a few questions by phone.
Just so you know - the correct cloth color is Camel.
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Did I miss a post or something? What is that about?


Pat O'Donnell
www.Pool-Table-Services.com
 
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