Glue on ferrule!!

HOB Weert

HOB Weert

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok, some Superglue was spilled on the ferrule.
I wiped it off right away.
But now it looks like it is inside the ferrule and i can't get it of.

Tried nail polish remover, and i am at a point now that more sanding is not an option.
Any tips, or new ferrule?
Don't have Super Glue remover over here!

Thanks,

MH
HOB Weert

ferrule.jpg
 
I would clean it up and polish it, then coat it in super glue. If you do it right it will come up nice and shiny and will stay clean from chalk. I use the thicker cyno and a cotton budd to put it on with.Just before it dries i place a piece of mylar on it while spining slowy in the lathe. The glue does not stick to the mylar and makes the surface very smooth. Saves on sanding and polishing .
Neil
 
conetip said:
I would clean it up and polish it, then coat it in super glue. If you do it right it will come up nice and shiny and will stay clean from chalk. I use the thicker cyno and a cotton budd to put it on with.Just before it dries i place a piece of mylar on it while spining slowy in the lathe. The glue does not stick to the mylar and makes the surface very smooth. Saves on sanding and polishing .
Neil
Click to expand...

Basically, you need to clean the ferule BEFORE replacing the tip as superglue will impregnate the chalk into the ferule as it penetrates and dries.
 
correct

bob_bushka said:
Basically, you need to clean the ferule BEFORE replacing the tip as superglue will impregnate the chalk into the ferule as it penetrates and dries.
Click to expand...
You are right.Cleaning and sealing the ferrule before replacing the tip is best practice.
For now you can try and polish it out, but for the time , it might be better to start over with a new ferrule if you can't get it to clean and you want it to look real sharp.
By the look of the shaft , it is already heavily stained. Most will clean out, It depends on how well it was sealed and burnished.
Your call, but me , I would replace the ferrule and keep a happy customer.
Neil
 
HOB Weert said:
Ok, some Superglue was spilled on the ferrule.
I wiped it off right away.
But now it looks like it is inside the ferrule and i can't get it of.

Tried nail polish remover, and i am at a point now that more sanding is not an option.
Any tips, or new ferrule?
Don't have Super Glue remover over here!

Thanks,

MH
HOB Weert

ferrule.jpg
Click to expand...

Ferrules are made out of many different materials Hob. By the photo your's appears to made of a woven Macarta, or it could be Ageis, most today are a hyrostatic plastic material. Do use anything like nail polish remover it will melt the plastic. Tape off the frrule where it meets the wood, and lightly sand back and forth. Strat with 400, then use 600, and then 1000 grit sand paper. Then buff the ferrule back and forth with some 1500 grit paper, and see if that helps. You may have damaged the ferrule with the polish remover, remeber in the future if you get glue on something use super Glue Debonder.

Hope this helps
 
HOB Weert said:
Ok, some Superglue was spilled on the ferrule.
I wiped it off right away.
But now it looks like it is inside the ferrule and i can't get it of.

Tried nail polish remover, and i am at a point now that more sanding is not an option.
Any tips, or new ferrule?
Don't have Super Glue remover over here!

Thanks,

MH
HOB Weert
Click to expand...

Am I missing something here? Has the poster indicated that he is using a lathe, or doing this freestyle? In either case, it looks to me as though you will have to replace the ferrule. With sanding not being an option, I don't really see anything getting that stain out. Could be wrong.

Chalk + CA = Chalk Mud Stain. Hard to get out even with a lathe. You'll be able to get a new ferrule on there before you're successful getting that stain to budge...that is, if you're using a lathe.

Gene
 
Last edited:
It looks like you sanded an hour glass shape into the ferrule already. I use medium viscosity super glue on tips and you can wipe it off before it dries with no residue on the ferrule. You can try Bleche White on it possibly if it's available over there.
 
Beeswax

I have encountered the same issue.

I prevent this by applying light coat with beeswax stick.

Makes for quick clean up and will prevent stain impregnation on ferrule.

I also use beeswax stick when cutting threads for ferrule installation.
 
Thanks for the input guy's.
Not that many cuemakers in our country, just learning from my mistakes, and asking around here...
Have to learn allot more...

MH
HOB Weert
 
Yeah, superglue can seal that chalk into the pores possibly to never be removed again without changing the ferrule. I always make sure the ferrule is clean before sealing as others have mentioned. If there is a old tip on there, then I like to do that before removing It, for a few reasons, one being that the old tip works as a backer and helps keep from rounding the edge of the face over. Therefore Less material that needs removed to face the ferrule for the new tip. You can only sand in one direction with some porus materials that are unsealed though, because the dust from the leather can get in the pores too. If I do It that way then when I replace the tip I don't have to worry about the ferrrule getting stained. The only materials I really seal with CA though, would be the most porus types that don't buff out on their own very well, and even then I usually just seal the pores and knock the top off, except on rare ocasion, because I'd rather have sanding sealer on top, as a thick cote of CA can usually be felt in the stroke area where the maple meets the ferrule. It just doesn't slide as well over CA IMO without relying on a conditioner or shaft polishing product of some type, and those usually only last so long.


Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top