Glueing Veneers

I highly recommend Titebond II--the results are consistently good. Others report good results using West with 207 hardner. YMMV.

Martin

CamposCues said:
What glue works best (strongest and fastest) for glueing veneers using the stack method?
 
jazznpool said:
I highly recommend Titebond II--the results are consistently good. Others report good results using West with 207 hardner. YMMV.

Martin

I agree with Martin, Titebond works the best for me.
 
IMHO West system and titebond dry too slow. Those glues will work best for the miter method. It would take too long to glue veener and wait to dry befor you stacked another one on. I have used med. ca with good results. If I switched to miter method West would be best. Again IMHo.

Jimbo.
 
cutter said:
I agree with Martin, Titebond works the best for me.

I used to use Titebond when gluing veneers together and the glue is plenty strong enough but I changed to using West System Epoxy. The west System costs a whole lot more money than Titebond but with the use of a wood glue, such as Titebond, the glued up veneers have a tendency to curl if not used quickly. With the use of Epoxy, the glued up veneers stay much flatter.

Dick
 
I use wood glue as well. To combat the curling, I glue them up and put them in the book press. Each one is individually wrapped in wax paper. After about 6 hours or even a day, I take them out and lay them out for the air to dry the glue on the edges. At this point is when they start to curl up, so I then put them back in the book press until I'm ready to cut the miters in them (usually a day or two later). By then they are completely dry and they don't seem to curl on me anymore.
 
I use a home brew mixture of flour and sugar with some other super secret additives.
The only problem I have had is keeping them dern little ants out of the glue pot.
I dont recomend this method for anyone. (unless you like ants)
 
We're gluing, clamping, and waiting no more than 30 minutes before trimming with router and repeating the process. The wonderful thing about Titebond II is that I have yet to see color migrate from one veneer to another. With some colors like orange and turquoise the excess glue squeezed out will be colored, but that is the extent of it. With a real slow set epoxy I would be concerned about migration of color, unless the veneers were pre-sealed to prevent it.

Martin




Mc2 said:
IMHO West system and titebond dry too slow. Those glues will work best for the miter method. It would take too long to glue veener and wait to dry befor you stacked another one on. I have used med. ca with good results. If I switched to miter method West would be best. Again IMHo.

Jimbo.
 
Does anyone use Med. CA glue??

Also does anyone know where I can get a saw blade like the one in the cue component video? This has to be the eaisest way to do it! Miter, Miter, Miter!!
 
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I too use tightbond 2 for veneers. I haven't had a single problem using it since switching from epoxy. I actually like it better, easy cleanup, no gloves while working dosen't cause colors to blend, ect... I still use epoxy whe gluing in anything like stabilized wood points, stone, ect.. but just for regular woods it works great. Chris.
 
Also does anyone know where I can get a saw blade like the one in the cue component video?

A friend of mine in New York who builds cues has been working on getting one. He said he'd order me one too. I called him the other day and told him don't bother. The way I do them works perfect, so why mess with it.

If you look at the video, he loads the Veneers from the top. That means that the blade has to be adjusted every single time you build a cue unless you are always using the same thickness veneers. To me that would take forever. I guess if you used a Radial Arm Saw instead so that the blade is cutting down, it wouldn't ever require adjustment, but holding those thin veneer strips in by the edges and keeping them from bowing while leaving enough room for the blade would seem like a real pain as well.

It takes me under 15 minutes to miter and glue up a set of veneers for a 4 point cue. It also took me going through every single piece of equipment I own to find a solution that works good for me, then a few weeks later, somebody posted a jig that was almost an exact replica of what I came up with and he'd been using it for 20 years or so.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
A friend of mine in New York who builds cues has been working on getting one. He said he'd order me one too. I called him the other day and told him don't bother. The way I do them works perfect, so why mess with it.

If you look at the video, he loads the Veneers from the top. That means that the blade has to be adjusted every single time you build a cue unless you are always using the same thickness veneers. To me that would take forever. I guess if you used a Radial Arm Saw instead so that the blade is cutting down, it wouldn't ever require adjustment, but holding those thin veneer strips in by the edges and keeping them from bowing while leaving enough room for the blade would seem like a real pain as well.

It takes me under 15 minutes to miter and glue up a set of veneers for a 4 point cue. It also took me going through every single piece of equipment I own to find a solution that works good for me, then a few weeks later, somebody posted a jig that was almost an exact replica of what I came up with and he'd been using it for 20 years or so.

What equiptment do you use?? Do you have any pics of the jig. I do have a radial arm saw as well. Thanks
 
I don't have a picture of the jig handy and am off to meetings this morning, but I think Dick posted pictures of his recently (possibly in the machinery thread). It works on the Tablesaw.

Even after I came up with this and thought all my problems were solved, I was still having difficulty, mostly with the glue-up. I got some tips from some other cuemakers. Some asked me to keep the information confidential, so I won't repeat what I was told.

If you find the thread, it should take you less than an hour to make the jig and be on your way to cutting good miters. To get a perfect seam on the glue-up takes some practice. I'm far from an expert, but most of mine are coming along pretty good. If I'm not happy with it when the glue's dry, I'll rip it apart and recut it.

Good luck

Edit:

Since I had to take a picture of this cue for somebody anyway, here's a closeup of the Veneers. They were mitered on the table saw and glued up with wood glue:

08-15-07-002.jpg
 
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Replies

Thanks for the replies fellas. I've been doing the stacked method. I did buy a saw blade that has been ground to a 90 but I haven't tried to mess with it yet. I think it would save some time over the stack method though. The stack method can be kind of tedious when you are doing several veneers.
 
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