Gold Crown casting dates match model year?

[ROB.M]

Table

SDB here is my GC 2 after a rebuild, Mark did the rails, great job.
Good luck with yours.

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That table is awesome!
Very nice' thanks for sharing the pic.
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Rob.M

 

[SDB]

SDB here is my GC 2 after a rebuild, Mark did the rails, great job.
Good luck with yours.

Wow!
That's beautiful! I hope mine turns out that fine!
Is your trim polished or chromed???

I've got the feet, pocket castings, and rail trim back from the polisher. Also spent most of Saturday sanding and stripping paint. It's coming along.
Amazing how tough the original paint is. I tried liquid stripper and all it did was soften the paint. Wouldn't lift it.
It did make sanding easier if I soaked it first in stripper.

All the paint is now off.
Gluing a few spots of the plywood on the legs that was delaminating.
Should be painting some time within a week or so.
I took it all down with 80 grit.
Going to hit it with 250 and 400 before it gets a sealer.

Back from the polisher.
Before

After

 

[SDB]

I recently bought what appears to be an old GCI. It has the figure "8" rail plates and no adjustable feet. The pocket castings are the older 1/4" thick ones and all of my three letter date codes are the same... JRV. I emailed Brunswick the date code and they quickly emailed me back and stated that my table was built in 1982. I definitely think their dating chart is way off!

At least I'm not alone I guess. :grin:

 

[TexanZ06]

SDB, My corners and feet were chromed, yours came out great looking, I stripped mine down just like you, looking good post pictures when complete.

 

[SDB]

SDB, My corners and feet were chromed, yours came out great looking, I stripped mine down just like you, looking good post pictures when complete.

Yours look great. What did you pay for the chroming if I may ask?
I couldn't find anyone local to do chroming and to ship them out for chrome was very pricey.

I'll have to settle on polishing every now and then.

 

[TexanZ06]

SDB, if memory serves me it cost around $600.00 for all the pieces, I got them done in Houston, Texas. I drove the 2hrs to drop them off and pick them up, very pleased with the outcome. The higher price was because of the ass try inserts which to more prep time and finish. I know wish I would have gotten the trim along the rails done also. maybe another time.

 

[mike253]

Over the summer, I picked up a GCIII that was in overall nice shape but the aprons were dirty, a bit beat up, and had been re-finished (poorly) at some point. That pic of your half sanded apron brings back memories. After an hour with 80 grit and a palm sander, I looked at the area I had just finished getting to bare wood and was proud of myself until I realized that was only about 1/4 of that apron.


Probably ended up with 25-30 hours in the aprons/ball box. Took the wood to 180 grit, 1 coat of red mahogony, a pass with 0000 steel wool, 2nd coat of red mahogony, 0000 steel woold, coat of poly, 0000 steel wool, 2nd coat of poly, and another pass with 0000 steel wool.

This was my first wood re-finishing project, if your table isn't your first re-finish, you might already know, but those tingling arms (from running the palm sander for so long), the sore back, sore knees, sore feet, and the massive headaches were all worth it when I finally got the last piece done and got to admire them all shined up

 

[SDB]

Over the summer, I picked up a GCIII that was in overall nice shape but the aprons were dirty, a bit beat up, and had been re-finished (poorly) at some point. That pic of your half sanded apron brings back memories. After an hour with 80 grit and a palm sander, I looked at the area I had just finished getting to bare wood and was proud of myself until I realized that was only about 1/4 of that apron.


Probably ended up with 25-30 hours in the aprons/ball box. Took the wood to 180 grit, 1 coat of red mahogony, a pass with 0000 steel wool, 2nd coat of red mahogony, 0000 steel woold, coat of poly, 0000 steel wool, 2nd coat of poly, and another pass with 0000 steel wool.

This was my first wood re-finishing project, if your table isn't your first re-finish, you might already know, but those tingling arms (from running the palm sander for so long), the sore back, sore knees, sore feet, and the massive headaches were all worth it when I finally got the last piece done and got to admire them all shined up

LOL.
I had numb fingers Saturday night after sanding for a good 6 hours.
I did pretty well though. Sanded all 4 skirts, legs, cross brace, ball box and storage box in one afternoon. I have a lot of history in refinishing trim and furniture, so this is nothing new. Can't wait till it's done though and I get to break that first rack.

 

[SDB]

SDB, if memory serves me it cost around $600.00 for all the pieces, I got them done in Houston, Texas. I drove the 2hrs to drop them off and pick them up, very pleased with the outcome. The higher price was because of the ass try inserts which to more prep time and finish. I know wish I would have gotten the trim along the rails done also. maybe another time.

That's not bad. I was quoted in excess of $800 for chrome.
Ended up paying $300 for professional buffing and $95 getting the steel racks and the potmetal badges, counters, and storage box trim powder coated.

 

[BenBrown]

I've been building furniture & cabinets for 25 years now. For all practical purposes, 180 grit on a finishing sander is more than adequate for staining and a clear lacquer finish, much less for painting. It's not an automobile!

 

[SDB]

I've been building furniture & cabinets for 25 years now. For all practical purposes, 180 grit on a finishing sander is more than adequate for staining and a clear lacquer finish, much less for painting. It's not an automobile!

I'm leaning toward an automotive base/clear system. I don't think it's as forgiving as stain and polly. Although it seems that 180 or even 250 on wood is a lot more smooth than on an auto body.

 

[mike253]

I've been building furniture & cabinets for 25 years now. For all practical purposes, 180 grit on a finishing sander is more than adequate for staining and a clear lacquer finish, much less for painting. It's not an automobile!

Yeah.. I practiced a little on some scrap wood to find the "sweet spot". Those aprons didn't take the red mahogony stain well unless I maxed out at 180. Tried 220, that pretty much made it like glass as far as the stain was concernred.

 

[SDB]

Yeah.. I practiced a little on some scrap wood to find the "sweet spot". Those aprons didn't take the red mahogony stain well unless I maxed out at 180. Tried 220, that pretty much made it like glass as far as the stain was concernred.

I maxed out with 250 and an orbital sander and hand sanded the rounded edges. The side skirts are like glass now. They actually look polished.

Can't sand this out though. A ghosted hint of the table's origins.

Also picked up the Dupont 2 stage BC/CC Urethane today along with the nonsandable spray sealer.

Going with Ermine White on the pedestal and Daytona Blue on the skirts and ball boxes. Thinking about leaving the subskirts off. I like the look of the ball returns peeking out from underneath. Should be spraying color this weekend.

Assembly is scheduled for the 17th with Jerimy Chambers out of Minooka IL. I dropped the rails off with him tonight for modifications and installation of Diamond cushions and Simonis 860HR Electric Blue cloth.

Ermine White for base

Daytona Blue for skirts

Yes, the table will be a Split Window Clone.

 

[SDB]

Also cleaned, sanded, and repainted the sub-frame.

Built my own light. The future drop ceiling will sit on the side trim, giving the illusion that it is built into the ceiling.

Two - 2x4 fixtures with a total of 8 daylight 6500K bulbs. I'm pretty happy with it for a $220 total cost.
I think it could double as a tanning bed.

 

[3RAILKICK]

Cool light

How's it hanging? Connected to electrical box directly like a ceiling fan? or cable or chain that I don't see.

Looks great.

Let us know how to get the Coppertone off the cloth:wink:

 

[SDB]

How's it hanging? Connected to electrical box directly like a ceiling fan? or cable or chain that I don't see.

Looks great.

Let us know how to get the Coppertone off the cloth:wink:

LOL

Looking at those pictures, it looks like it's hovering.
I wish I'd taken pictures as I was assembling it.

I mounted it directly to the ceiling. No hanging here.
Used 4 2x4's, in 2 pairs, mounted flat on top of each other as a 3" spacer.
So the two lights are butted end to end and screwd directly internally to the 2x4's above them.

The 2x4's spaced the light down enough to clear the wiring conduit above it as well as locate the light low enough for my drop ceiling to work out later. The 2x4's are the same length as the overall length of the two lights, which allows you to screw the ends of the finish trim to the 2x4's.

Technically, I could remove both light fixtures and the trim would remain, or I could take down the trim without effecting the fixtures. The trim and lights are independent of each other. There is also quite a bit of weight there with two lights, 4- 8' 2x4, 20+ feet of 1x6 and 20+ feet of finish trim. With only a 7' ceiling, the final height came out great, about 78 inches above the floor. The light spread is very even with the egg crate lenses too. I'll post up more pictures once the table is installed.

Hope that all makes sense.

I did have to lay down the first house rule with my wife the other day though. No laying in a horizontal position on the table. :wink:

 

[mike253]

I knew this thread would get me in trouble..

I cleaned up my frame a little but figured "eh.. it's a frame, who's gonna see it". Now I feel compelled to drag that heavy SOB outside and give it a good paint job. Matter of fact, yours looks so good, I'm gonna steal your brown paint color idea.

 

[SDB]

I knew this thread would get me in trouble..

I cleaned up my frame a little but figured "eh.. it's a frame, who's gonna see it". Now I feel compelled to drag that heavy SOB outside and give it a good paint job. Matter of fact, yours looks so good, I'm gonna steal your brown paint color idea.

Same here. Everything else on the table was touched, so I figured what the hell.

Just took off the loose paint and smoothed the worn areas.
Shot some sealer on the bare spots and hit it all with a thick coat of Rustoleum Brown rattle can. Original color on the sub-frame was about the same color of brown.

 

[SDB]

Well....It's coming along. :grin-square:

Rail counters have been disassembled and rebuilt. I may have reinstalled the numbers backwards though. Until I get the rails back, I won't know for sure. Guess I've got a 50/50 chance.

Legs are now Ermine White and Red Oak.

Skirts are now painted too.
Here's a shot of the base coat flashing out prior to clear.
1963 GM Daytona metallic blue.

Ended up using a 2 stage base/clear eurethane Dupont auto paint system after sealing, sanding, filling, sanding some more, more filling, sanding, sealing again. A lot of work.

The base turned out great with just the paint sprayed. Ready for assembly now.
The skirts picked up some dirt in the clear coat, so I'll be wet sanding and buffing the clear on those.

 

[SDB]

Just looking at an old picture.
Yup, I put the numbers in backwards.