Gold Crown III Frame

rellek

rellek

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As I am pondering setting up my GC III finally I was wondering, would it make sense to improve the center frame supports. Rather than running the solid supports across the width of the table, what if you ran a support (like a piece of LVL) the long way, and then ran shorter cross members across the width. Am I just over engineering, or would there be an advantage? I notice that the Diamond tables use a long very stout looking center beam.
 
rellek said:
As I am pondering setting up my GC III finally I was wondering, would it make sense to improve the center frame supports. Rather than running the solid supports across the width of the table, what if you ran a support (like a piece of LVL) the long way, and then ran shorter cross members across the width. Am I just over engineering, or would there be an advantage? I notice that the Diamond tables use a long very stout looking center beam.
Click to expand...
I didn't know there was an issue? I think you are overthinking it. Take your time and put it together to play on it! :)

TFT
 
rellek said:
As I am pondering setting up my GC III finally I was wondering, would it make sense to improve the center frame supports. Rather than running the solid supports across the width of the table, what if you ran a support (like a piece of LVL) the long way, and then ran shorter cross members across the width. Am I just over engineering, or would there be an advantage? I notice that the Diamond tables use a long very stout looking center beam.
Click to expand...

Your change would make the framer similar to my gc1. The change would also likely be less rigid than the original design.
 
You got this! the cross members are numbered! Be sure to check the frame bolts a couple different times during your build!
Keep us posted.

TFT
 
Question for all of you, how much slate weight do you think is supported by the center cross members, on ANY GC?
 
rellek said:
As I am pondering setting up my GC III finally I was wondering, would it make sense to improve the center frame supports. Rather than running the solid supports across the width of the table, what if you ran a support (like a piece of LVL) the long way, and then ran shorter cross members across the width. Am I just over engineering, or would there be an advantage? I notice that the Diamond tables use a long very stout looking center beam.
Click to expand...
How much weight do you think is supported on the timberstrand center beam on that 9ft Diamond Professional?
 
realkingcobra said:
How much weight do you think is supported on the timberstrand center beam on that 9ft Diamond Professional?
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I'd have to guess that the majority of the weight is supported by the main rails and the cross members and center beams only provide enough support to stop the slate from sagging in the middle.
 
tomatoshooter said:
I'd have to guess that the majority of the weight is supported by the main rails and the cross members and center beams only provide enough support to stop the slate from sagging in the middle.
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I have yet to see a slate sag in the middle. 99% of the time, if the slate is crowned or low in the middle, its because of how the slate is mounted to the frame.
 
So my table came from a group of tables and I think one of the cross members that I got maybe came from another table because it sits higher than the exterior frame. Can I assume that I want them flush or lower than the outside, and that this piece would need to be adjusted to sit at the proper level?
 
rellek said:
So my table came from a group of tables and I think one of the cross members that I got maybe came from another table because it sits higher than the exterior frame. Can I assume that I want them flush or lower than the outside, and that this piece would need to be adjusted to sit at the proper level?
Click to expand...
100% . you got this!

TFT
 
rellek said:
So my table came from a group of tables and I think one of the cross members that I got maybe came from another table because it sits higher than the exterior frame. Can I assume that I want them flush or lower than the outside, and that this piece would need to be adjusted to sit at the proper level?
Click to expand...
Lower than flush is ideal, then there can't be any interface with setting the slates flat.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Eff off. I spent years designing and setting up millions of dollars in custom cnc machinery to tolerances tighter than you *believe* you are holding. I know how to put things level and flat.
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I figured I'd get a response like this from you, because you're the type of person that can't accept the fact you don't know what you're doing, even to the point of argument, because you have to be right!!!

If you KNEW what you were doing, then you'd know the crossmembers only serve one purpose, and that is to provide a spot to place a wedge to lift UP the slate to level it out. Which is usually the result caused by the slate screws pulling DOWN the middle if the slate, because the outside of the frame is higher than the center is!!!

Keep practicing though, I'm sure it'll eventually turn out ok😅
 
realkingcobra said:
I figured I'd get a response like this from you, because you're the type of person that can't accept the fact you don't know what you're doing, even to the point of argument, because you have to be right!!!

If you KNEW what you were doing, then you'd know the crossmembers only serve one purpose, and that is to provide a spot to place a wedge to lift UP the slate to level it out. Which is usually the result caused by the slate screws pulling DOWN the middle if the slate, because the outside of the frame is higher than the center is!!!

Keep practicing though, I'm sure it'll eventually turn out ok😅
Click to expand...

Things flex. I didn't shim to make it flat, I shimmed to ensure it doesn't sag or flex.

Take a day off, not being a dick once in a while would serve you well.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Eff off. I spent years designing and setting up millions of dollars in custom cnc machinery to tolerances tighter than you *believe* you are holding. I know how to put things level and flat.
Click to expand...
Machinery and pool tables are apples to oranges buddy!!

I could have mounted and leveled the slates on your table using only 4 slate screws! Are you GOOD enough to do THAT?😉
 
realkingcobra said:
Machinery and pool tables are apples to oranges buddy!!

I could have mounted and leveled the slates on your table using only 4 slate screws! Are you GOOD enough to do THAT?😉
Click to expand...

Apparently better because you only need three to make level. Kind of an engineering basic principle.
 
realkingcobra said:
Machinery and pool tables are apples to oranges buddy!!

I could have mounted and leveled the slates on your table using only 4 slate screws! Are you GOOD enough to do THAT?😉
Click to expand...
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20210704_195254_resize_20210711_090603.jpg


Again, 3 slate screws? I ONLY used 4 in this 1912 Regina 5x10 billiard table.
 
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