Grinding/Milling Internal/Female Threads Tooling?

Scott Behrens

Former Cue Builder
Silver Member
I haven't done this yet and need to pick up a tool for doing it. I'd like to get the tightest fit possible to the 3/8-10 pin. Here's what I've come up with. I figure this will cut in a minimum bore size of .250 and should have enough tooth to get all the thread cut. 2 inches of depth so a 3 inch pin can be put in 2 inches with 1" left for the shaft attachment. Thoughts and comments from those who've done it would be greatly appreciated.

attachment.php


Thanks,
Scott
 

Attachments

  • FemaleThreader.jpg
    FemaleThreader.jpg
    34.8 KB · Views: 492
Last edited:
Check the pins you have and see what the minor diameter is.
Example
Jan. mfg, .280 minor, .370 O.D.
Atlas supply may be different
Schmelke is definitely a larger minor and a smaller O.D.
TNS has his own also.
 
I made a cutter to put in my router and I am very happy with the threads that it cuts. Now I can make the threads fit the pin tight and straight. The cutter is similar to what you have drawn except there are 6 points on it to cut the threads.

Gary
 
minor diameter

Most of the 3/8-10 pins I've measured have a minor diameter between .234 and .240 thats why I was thinking of going with a minimum bore diameter of .250. I didn't want to go too small as I don't know how small I can go with a 2" neck and expect stability.

Thanks,
Scott
 
micro 100 mills

I assume you are talking about the TM-375. Are you using it with a bore diameter of .292 or larger and not milling more than 1.5-1.75 inches in depth?

The math I've done says that you'd need the cutter head diameter ground down to do the above and the shank undercut to cut in a bore any smaller.

Maybe my math is wrong or doesn't account for the properties of using them in wood. I guess that's where my real question lies. Is my math right or am I missing something?

My math also says Enco's 619-3090 could do the same thing without being ground but only 1" deep.

I'm hoping to find a tool that will cut in a bore of .250 or less 2 inches deep. Is this not necessary?

Thanks for the help,
Scott
 
Scott Behrens said:
Most of the 3/8-10 pins I've measured have a minor diameter between .234 and .240 thats why I was thinking of going with a minimum bore diameter of .250. I didn't want to go too small as I don't know how small I can go with a 2" neck and expect stability.

Thanks,
Scott

How are you measuring?
Just to check your math, ask the source where you get your pins.
 
Last edited:
Scott.......a couple things to think about when milling threads.
In my experience I have found the three tooth config to work the best for me. Seems to have better chip clean out and I can take a deeper cut with little or no chatter in the harder woods. I found the Micro ones to work better after I modified them.
Next step was to just have them built to my specs. Put a different rake(angle) on the cutting teeth to work better in wood. Had the cutting head ground to match the pin threads that I am using.
For my longer ones I used tool steel for the neck and had a carbide disc cutting head soldered on. The shorter ones I did in solid carbide......if I do it again, I'll do them all with tool steel necks.......easier on the wallet.
When making my cuts, I work from the back of the hole away from the head stock with the lathe turning the slowest rpm it will turn. On the last cut I always do a free pass or clean up cut.
I've been using the same cutter for my shafts over 6 years and never had it resharped yet.
A while back, Billiardbum had some for sale that were very reasonable. Maybe try him for one if he still has them.
Good luck.........
 
Scott Behrens said:
I assume you are talking about the TM-375. Are you using it with a bore diameter of .292 or larger and not milling more than 1.5-1.75 inches in depth?

The math I've done says that you'd need the cutter head diameter ground down to do the above and the shank undercut to cut in a bore any smaller.

Maybe my math is wrong or doesn't account for the properties of using them in wood. I guess that's where my real question lies. Is my math right or am I missing something?

My math also says Enco's 619-3090 could do the same thing without being ground but only 1" deep.

I'm hoping to find a tool that will cut in a bore of .250 or less 2 inches deep. Is this not necessary?

Thanks for the help,
Scott
I don't do inside threads for 5/16 18 or 16.
I just use it for the ferrule and 3/8 threads and bigger.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I don't do inside threads for 5/16 18 or 16.
I just use it for the ferrule and 3/8 threads and bigger.

This thread grinding thing is too much now...
Let's talk about your avatar bro:D :D :D
 
Back
Top