Gun stock.

[Blue Hog ridr]

I just bought a Winchester, 7mm. The stock has a couple of rough spots and dents on it.

I will try using a wet bandage on some, and my steam gun on others. Not like clear maple, where we can use a bit of Cyano or epoxy to fill in a dent, I will be staining the stock a darker color. Deep Walnut, or similar.

If I end up having to fill in a few dents, is there a glue that will take a stain.

I have a few different colors of furniture powder, but doubt that either of them will match the stain that I would like to use.

Thanks for the help and suggestions on this one.

 

[Dave38]

You should try this on scraps first....try using an epoxy, and mixing some stain with it before staining the stock. Use that to fill the divots. If it's a waterbased stain it won't work, but a solvent based may. Or stain the dents first, then fill with either CA, or epoxy, then stain the entire stock, it may come out matching pretty close. BTW, good to see ya around Terry. Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.
Dave

 

[Highmiles]

In a worst case scenario, you can mix stain (or tint) with a spray on finish. That is how manufacturers do it with poor wood.

 

[Thomas Wayne]

I just bought a Winchester, 7mm. The stock has a couple of rough spots and dents on it.

I will try using a wet bandage on some, and my steam gun on others. Not like clear maple, where we can use a bit of Cyano or epoxy to fill in a dent, I will be staining the stock a darker color. Deep Walnut, or similar.

If I end up having to fill in a few dents, is there a glue that will take a stain.

I have a few different colors of furniture powder, but doubt that either of them will match the stain that I would like to use.

Thanks for the help and suggestions on this one.

Find an old-time furniture maker - a man, not a company - and ask him to teach you how to make a "louse". Done correctly by a skilled craftsman, that type of repair will be invisible in all but the most difficult of woods - and very hard to find even in those.

TW

 

[Thomas Wayne]

[...........]

 

[ratcues]

There are many wood fillers on the market that will fill the dents and take stain like wood. They go on as a paste and sand easily when dry. Find one that matches the color of the unstained stock and run with it.

 

[pescadoman]

I just bought a Winchester, 7mm. The stock has a couple of rough spots and dents on it.

I will try using a wet bandage on some, and my steam gun on others. Not like clear maple, where we can use a bit of Cyano or epoxy to fill in a dent, I will be staining the stock a darker color. Deep Walnut, or similar.

If I end up having to fill in a few dents, is there a glue that will take a stain.

I have a few different colors of furniture powder, but doubt that either of them will match the stain that I would like to use.

Thanks for the help and suggestions on this one.

I'd join a gunsmithing forum and get their take on it...

 

[john coloccia]

Depending on the depth of the dent and if fibers are broken (i.e. will it take stain evenly) it sometimes works to simply ignore it. Stain as usual, shoot some sealer coats, and then drop fill with CA. Use a razor blade, and then sandpaper, to level the drop fill. Then continue. If it's not too bad, it can turn out anywhere from invisible to just looking like a little figure.

Try it on some scrap, obviously. It's pretty cool when it works.

I don't like fillers for dents. Even if they take stain, it usually just looks like a glob of filler that's been stained unless you go back and draw in some features that match the surrounding wood grain.

 

[cueman]

I don't like fillers for dents. Even if they take stain, it usually just looks like a glob of filler that's been stained unless you go back and draw in some features that match the surrounding wood grain.

This is what I used to do back in the days of Console Televisions. I used to do touch up work on those for several TV rental stores. Drawing in the grain was a must and actually one of the easier things to do. Getting the color right with those powdered stains was the hard part, as they dried a different color than they were when mixed wet. And then they changed color again when finish was applied, but not to the wet mixed look. I got pretty good at it, but there was a husband and wife couple who had more experience than I did and they could nail the color mix every time.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Thanks for the Help guys, came thru again. Actually never thought of these, beyond knowing that if you're not careful, your eyes will get drawn to the areas that were filled.

Thomas, I do know an older pool player and another who just hangs in the bar who makes their living from refinishing furniture.
Funny that I didn't think about either of these guys.

The one East Indian gentleman has been doing it all his life, and if I remember, does French Polishing too.

Pretty sure that I can get most out, but there is an area where it looks like the wood was torn and roughed up so to speak. Kind of tattered looking like the area was being rubbed. Some small dents have a sharp crease.

Like you guys, I Iike taking things and making them new again, over just buying new.

I was looking at a synthetic camo stock, but one guy mentioned, that with a 7mm, it may kick even more. Likely better to have a bit of heavier wood to absorb the shock.

It does have some Checkering on it also. Maybe just some stripper and scrub it off with a toothbrush or stiffer bristle.

We have one Gun Smith in town, but no one that actually does Gun Stocks.

 

[ratcues]

Instead of a Band-aid, try a wet Q-tip and tape that over the dent. Is holds more water for a longer period of time. Leave it overnight. That's what I do for bigger dents of shafts.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Will do, as there are a few fairly sharp creases that would lend themselves well to having water in the crease for a longer period of time.

Randy, I could go to a Gun Forum, but truthfully, I didn't even think of it. This is where I did and still do my reading and learning so was my first thought.

Unless a person is having a custom stock made, I imagine that there are only a few woods preferred by makers for certain properties.

Whereas, a Cue Maker is going to be experienced using every type of wood available. Plus repairs done on them.

I haven't picked the rifle up yet so when I do, will be able to give it a closer inspection than what I did before.

 

[john coloccia]

Sometimes, depending on the dent, I put a damp rag over it and then hit it with a soldering iron to pop it out. Of course, you have to be very careful not to scorch the wood, but with practice you quickly get a feel for how to do it without damage. Definitely one of those "practice on scrap" techniques!

Anyhow, if all the normal stuff doesn't work, sometimes this does. Seems to work better with softer woods.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

John, I have a Steam Gun also. After I sold all of my Radio Controlled Airplanes, the one item that I did keep was the Mono Coat Iron.

I imagine that you know what one looks like, not unlike the shape of a regular clothes Iron, only much smaller, and with a long handle.

I haven't ever felt the need for it yet, but it is there if I do need to use a little direct heat.

 

[john coloccia]

John, I have a Steam Gun also. After I sold all of my Radio Controlled Airplanes, the one item that I did keep was the Mono Coat Iron.

I imagine that you know what one looks like, not unlike the shape of a regular clothes Iron, only much smaller, and with a long handle.

I haven't ever felt the need for it yet, but it is there if I do need to use a little direct heat.

Yes, I was a big RC nut back in the day. Not sure anyone actually builds anything anymore. Most of the kits have disappeared.

Still have a Red Baron iron and trim iron....z-bend pliers too. And yes, some 20 to 30 year old Monokote rolls.

Ah, the good 'ole days.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Yep. I had my second bedroom as my RC Hobby room. A large table that would fit the largest of plans.

I rather enjoyed building over flying, in which, admittedly, I wasn't very good at.

The Mono Coat could be most tedious, but worth it in the long run.

Never got into too much fiber glass, other than I would usually do a wrap of fiber glass over the wings once they were joined.

There have been times that I wished that I didn't sell all my stuff, but got into Cue repair and the money from the RC went into that.