T
Timberly
Guest
Does anyone know where to find a gundrill that's about 15 to 18 inches long? All I've really been able to find are the really large ones. Is there a trade secret amongst cue makers on the best gundrill? Thanks!
T
Timberly
Guest
Thanks! LOL I'm confused, this website is WAY too indpeth for me. I'm researching this for a friend and all they gave me were some measurements. The pages on this website might as well be written in greek.Sheldon said:
Hopefully they can get to a computer before too long and figure it out themselves. Thanks again!
Just call them, and tell them what you need. They are pretty helpful.Timberly said:Thanks! LOL I'm confused, this website is WAY too indpeth for me. I'm researching this for a friend and all they gave me were some measurements. The pages on this website might as well be written in greek.
Have them grind it slightly oversized, like .758 or so. That way you can cut your core larger than .750 so that you can cut it to .750 later for trim rings, buttcaps, etc.
gun drills
I differ with Sheldon about havng a bigger size gun drill. Buy the drill at a standard size, [.750] and turn cut your tenons accordlingly].[save your money for other things] You only need a few thousands for glue room.
If you keep things to a standard size, you won't be sorry you had an odd ball size later on.
Also score some glue pocket lines long ways on your tenons, [ just drag you single point tool in the wood to make a pocket with the lathe turned off]. Then when spinning the cue, gouge a few cross ways pockets to hold even more glue. This will hold rings, sleves and butt plates in place
blud
830-232-5991
poolcues@hctc.net
I can get you the numbers to a very good company who makes only gun drills.Timberly said:
I differ with Sheldon about havng a bigger size gun drill. Buy the drill at a standard size, [.750] and turn cut your tenons accordlingly].[save your money for other things] You only need a few thousands for glue room.
If you keep things to a standard size, you won't be sorry you had an odd ball size later on.
Also score some glue pocket lines long ways on your tenons, [ just drag you single point tool in the wood to make a pocket with the lathe turned off]. Then when spinning the cue, gouge a few cross ways pockets to hold even more glue. This will hold rings, sleves and butt plates in place
blud
830-232-5991
poolcues@hctc.net
I'm with you Sheldon...on the slighly larger gun drills. Mine are standard size, and every time I put ringwork on, I wish the tenons were just a little bigger so that they will clean up really nice.Sheldon said:
I have to agree with Sheldon on this one. Get the gun drill slightly over size so that your tenon can be a standard size. If you don't then you have to custom make all of your deco-rings for a snug fit. There was no difference in price between a .750 and a .760 gun drill when I got mine about 3 years ago and the total price including shipping was 129.65 and was a .750X16". Standard length sizes run from 12" to 48" in 4" incraments. The difference in price was around 1.50 to 2.00 every 4". They also ground the carbide to cut hard woods instead of metal. The 16" one that I got will only cut about 13" as the 16" length includes the mount on the end so I wish I would have gotten a 20" or 24" instead so that I could bore 16" or 18" dowells, for the prong and butt coller at one time. Running air thru it it drills very straight and very clean and cool. As Blud says, run 4 or 5 light gouges the length of your dowell and cut a ring around it about every 3" or so so that there is a checkerboard look to the dowell and you will have no glue starvation between the core and the prong. I use West system for my glue up as it is very thin and strong. I have cut a few of these length wise, after drying, to make sure there was no glue starvation and was happy with the results. I got mine from Drill Masters of Vermont,inc. North Bennington, VT (802)442-3525
Dick
Dick
Ted Harris said:
Yeah, exactly what I tried to say, and didn't do very well.
I like my ringwork/sleeves/caps, etc to fit snugly on the tenons. Much of the Phenolic I buy is already at .750 so if my core is smaller than that ,there is no room to 'clean it up' or make it fit nice and snug. Of course if you start with solid material, you can cut it any size so it's not an issue.
I'll cast another vote with Sheldon.
Some woods will be cored for weight purposes. These are usually pretty stable & warpage isn't much of a problem. But the burls & highly figured lightweight woods, which will be cored to stabilize them, will often move after the core is installed. It is in these cases that it's nice to have some extra material on the core.
I use an 11/16 gun drill for forearms and a 13/16 gun drill for handles. Then I bore the forearm on the large end to .780 diameter x 1" deep & make a stepped core. This gives me stock on each end. A little extra work but I feel it's well worth it.
When coring a handle, I bore the handle to 13/16, install & glue the core, then turn the exposed core to .750 for the trim & buttsleeve. Some people center both ends of the core, then machine the cored assembly between those centers. I agree but I use very small centers in case something moves appreciably after gluing. That gives me the option to chuck up on the outer sleeve & support the buttsleeve end of the handle in a steady rest, then recut a larger center in that end of the core. This gives me a consistent wall thickness on the handle.
Some people call me anal but I don't have a clue where they get that idea.
I also use a stepped core when using a single 30" laminated blank to core the full length of a cue. This way I can assemble the forearm tightly against the shoulder of the step. When the epoxy sets up, then I can turn the exposed core & assemble the trim rings, handle & buttsleeve tightly against the already glued forearm. Again, some will argue that it's wasted time. They are entitled to their opinions.
Some woods will be cored for weight purposes. These are usually pretty stable & warpage isn't much of a problem. But the burls & highly figured lightweight woods, which will be cored to stabilize them, will often move after the core is installed. It is in these cases that it's nice to have some extra material on the core.
I use an 11/16 gun drill for forearms and a 13/16 gun drill for handles. Then I bore the forearm on the large end to .780 diameter x 1" deep & make a stepped core. This gives me stock on each end. A little extra work but I feel it's well worth it.
When coring a handle, I bore the handle to 13/16, install & glue the core, then turn the exposed core to .750 for the trim & buttsleeve. Some people center both ends of the core, then machine the cored assembly between those centers. I agree but I use very small centers in case something moves appreciably after gluing. That gives me the option to chuck up on the outer sleeve & support the buttsleeve end of the handle in a steady rest, then recut a larger center in that end of the core. This gives me a consistent wall thickness on the handle.
Some people call me anal but I don't have a clue where they get that idea.
I also use a stepped core when using a single 30" laminated blank to core the full length of a cue. This way I can assemble the forearm tightly against the shoulder of the step. When the epoxy sets up, then I can turn the exposed core & assemble the trim rings, handle & buttsleeve tightly against the already glued forearm. Again, some will argue that it's wasted time. They are entitled to their opinions.
T
Timberly
Guest
Wow
You guys are awesome, thank you for all your input! I know this is going to be invaluable to my friend.
You guys are awesome, thank you for all your input! I know this is going to be invaluable to my friend.
some use expanding poly-urethane glue some use West System epoxy with a thin hardener.macguy said:
Off-topic guys, how do you line up your gun drill?
Bore out a hole in a jig, chuck that and have another one in the steady rest, and let the drill line up thru those two jigs?
Here is a link showing a setup for gundrilling.http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/making.html
what ever works
I have used my method for years and it works for me. I also built a tool to clean and cut threads [score] the inside of the phonlic, so there's no releasing agent left on the inside of it.
Whatever works.
blud
Good for all you guys. Whatever works for you is good.Sheldon said:Yeah, exactly what I tried to say, and didn't do very well.
I like my ringwork/sleeves/caps, etc to fit snugly on the tenons. Much of the Phenolic I buy is already at .750 so if my core is smaller than that ,there is no room to 'clean it up' or make it fit nice and snug. Of course if you start with solid material, you can cut it any size so it's not an issue.
I have used my method for years and it works for me. I also built a tool to clean and cut threads [score] the inside of the phonlic, so there's no releasing agent left on the inside of it.
Whatever works.
blud
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I have a method that gets it set up in seconds. bore your pilot hole and put the cutter inside with your compound rest LOOSE. run the tailstock up to the back of the drill and center the back of it on the tailstock by moving the cross slide. Tighten the compound and the cross slide and let 'er rip!JoeyInCali said:
line up
Just another way to skin the cat.
blud
PS, Joey, thanks for the plug link to my site.
Joey, when I set my drill up, I use a bearing with ther ID, the same size as the drill. Put the bearing in your chuck. Using the bearing as a guide your going to be dead on. It's to size every time, and you will never wear it out. It's hardened steel. Then tighten up your tool holder and slide the drill in and out to make sure you have no "DRAG" in the bearing with the drills end. Then crank it up.JoeyInCali said:
Just another way to skin the cat.
blud
PS, Joey, thanks for the plug link to my site.