Hanging your wood.

macguy

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
(I moved this to a new thread because I want to be sure to get some input and it was off subject.)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cueman
"I have hung shafts in the past, but have not found it to keep shafts as straight as standing them up in my closed personal box during the last small passes. Keeping them out in the shop during those last small passes hanging has allow some to warp. So all my shafts are stood pretty much straight up in racks. My private box has small squares to hold the shafts straighter up that my larger racks. But they seem to stay straight or warp either way they are done. Some wood is just unstable and hanging them just puts off some of the warping they will do later. I would rather toss the shaft than have it lose it's stability once in the customers case laying on it's side."

What you are saying may be true. I was turning some not so good shafts the other day for jump and break cues and was thinking to myself how straight they seemed to be between turns. (I mean real straight almost perfect). Do you feel this is due to the tension from hanging and they probably will go crooked in the future once the hanging tension is no longer there? You have me thinking now.
 
The differences Chris experienced between hanging his shafts and having them in a box has probably more to do with environment than the manner in which they were supported. IMO the box provided a better shelter from tempeture and moisture change.
 
hanging

Canadian cue said:
The differences Chris experienced between hanging his shafts and having them in a box has probably more to do with environment than the manner in which they were supported. IMO the box provided a better shelter from tempeture and moisture change.
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Hi guys,

This may help. I surly hope so.

I hang my shafts from the small end, letting the weight help release the stress, and let the wood move on it's own.{ hang them straight from the center drilled hole in the end}.


Putting them in a box, I would think is wrong. The box will contain moister and when the shafts are removed, they will move to the curent conditions in your work area.I turn cut the dowels down to about 15mm, and then take small cuts, down to finish size. I no longer use a wood stablizer.I have used it for many years. I find my shafts that are just turn cut and hung to air dry are much dencer, and I, seem to have less waist than before when using a wood stablizer.

blud
 
I WANT my shafts to warp. Shock the hell out of em, cut em down HARD the first couple of passes, and nelsonite seems to help a lot. Easy to cull out the movers that way.
Here's how I do it.
I usually get 1" dowels or 1" at one end and .75 at the other.
My first cut will be down to about .6 at the tip and .9 at the other end.
Shafts all hang up until sold.
Next cut will be with a basic shaft taper with the tip at .580
Nelsonite at this point, maybe 30-60 seconds.
Next cut at .560, carefully noting any shafts that wobble, and marking them.
Next cut .540, again carefully noting any that have moved... the ones that move twice go bye-bye, the rest seem to stay nice and straight. In 5 years I have had to replace only 2 shafts that warped.
 
shafts

Sheldon said:
I WANT my shafts to warp. Shock the hell out of em, cut em down HARD the first couple of passes, and nelsonite seems to help a lot. Easy to cull out the movers that way.
Here's how I do it.
I usually get 1" dowels or 1" at one end and .75 at the other.
My first cut will be down to about .6 at the tip and .9 at the other end.
Shafts all hang up until sold.
Next cut will be with a basic shaft taper with the tip at .580
Nelsonite at this point, maybe 30-60 seconds.
Next cut at .560, carefully noting any shafts that wobble, and marking them.
Next cut .540, again carefully noting any that have moved... the ones that move twice go bye-bye, the rest seem to stay nice and straight. In 5 years I have had to replace only 2 shafts that warped.
Click to expand...
Hi Sheldon, Just read your post. Soaking shafts and cutting them down I have found is a waist of money for nelsonite. Soaking them for less than 3 or 4 minutes, is wasiting material. To prove this, take a shaft that is bad from the get go, and cut a 2" chunk off one end, [the big end, and shaft that have not been cut down], soak it in nelsonite with an oil base stain. Using this method will tell you how long it takes for the nelsonite to "SOAK" in. At 30 to 60 seconds, your not getting much penetration at all, enen with a shaft close to finsh sanding.
Nelsonite is not worth using to me any longer. The air dried woods hit better and stay straight.

blud
 
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