Hardness of woods????

cscott67

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am interested to know if there is a publication or a listing some where on the density or hardness of different woods? Is tulipwood "harder" than purpleheart when used non-cored in a full-splice forearm? Thanks for any opinions, Scott
 
I am interested to know if there is a publication or a listing some where on the density or hardness of different woods? Is tulipwood "harder" than purpleheart when used non-cored in a full-splice forearm? Thanks for any opinions, Scott

Chris Hightower's book of cuebuilding has a chart that covers most common woods used, and their cubic weight etc. It's a good read for $60 whether you are a builder, or a collector!!!
Dave
 
William A. Lincoln's "World Woods in Color". This way you don't have to have a computor with you to read about something.
 
Thanks guys!!

I found the answer I was looking for on the janka hardness figures. Tulipwood is much harder, hence delivering a stiffer hit in a full splice cue when used un-cored in the forearm!
 
I found the answer I was looking for on the janka hardness figures. Tulipwood is much harder, hence delivering a stiffer hit in a full splice cue when used un-cored in the forearm!

While the tulip is harder, it is not necessarily more stable than purpleheart. Purpleheart is more stable, which is why it is often used in the handles of some cues....it is less likely to 'move' or develop a wobble than tulip is. The tulip MUST be well seasoned...because if it's not, it's gonna move on ya. I had a tulip nosed cue once, it developed a wobble at the joint in less than the month's time I had it, had to send it back in for repair.

I'm no cue maker, but feel that the tulip might be better suited for the back/handle/butt section of a full splice rather than the nose, as the diameter is thicker there, and perhaps less prone to wanting to move.

Lisa
 
Thanks for the input Lisa.....

I have had the tulipwood/rosewood cue for over a year now with no movement. The splice was made with pieces that had been curing for more than 10 years. I feel that tulipwood is too hard to use in the forearm uncored. Next time I may try it with a purpleheart forearm and tulipwood handle full splice. Thanks for all the advice, Scott
 
I have had the tulipwood/rosewood cue for over a year now with no movement. The splice was made with pieces that had been curing for more than 10 years. I feel that tulipwood is too hard to use in the forearm uncored. Next time I may try it with a purpleheart forearm and tulipwood handle full splice. Thanks for all the advice, Scott

Ooooooo....got pics?! :grin: I love rosewoods, of which tulip is one, and am curious to see how they look together. I currently have a tulip handle full splice into BEM nose in the works...this one has veneers...but have always pondered a tulip/Boise de Rose (another rosewood) full splice. So I am definitely keen to see yours. :yeah:

Lisa =====>could talk about this stuff all day!
 
Lisa,

The cue is very vibrant. I will try to post some pics for you in good light this weekend. In all honesty it plays much too stiff though. Scott
 
You need to remember something about Janka hardness. How is it tested? From the endgrain or the side grain? They are not the same.

John
 
great book

William A. Lincoln's "World Woods in Color". This way you don't have to have a computor with you to read about something.

Great book... Also use The Encyclopedia of Wood by Facts on File

John
 
I must be missing something because I can not find Tulipwood listed on the Janka hardness testing page. Also, for Ridelikethewind, Bois de Rose is another name for Tulipwood, not a different type of rosewood.
Tulipwood has a specific gravity of .96 and purpleheart is at .86 and about 6 pounds per cubic foot lighter.
 
I have had the tulipwood/rosewood cue for over a year now with no movement. The splice was made with pieces that had been curing for more than 10 years. I feel that tulipwood is too hard to use in the forearm uncored. Next time I may try it with a purpleheart forearm and tulipwood handle full splice. Thanks for all the advice, Scott


I made a full splice blank like that here in my shop some time ago. Was that the blank I made? I am glad it has not moved, whoever made it, as using tulipwood scares me for strutural parts. I did soak in in Resolute or Nelsonite really good though.
 
I must be missing something because I can not find Tulipwood listed on the Janka hardness testing page. Also, for Ridelikethewind, Bois de Rose is another name for Tulipwood, not a different type of rosewood.
Tulipwood has a specific gravity of .96 and purpleheart is at .86 and about 6 pounds per cubic foot lighter.

Bois de Rose is used to describe many different kinds of Rosewood. When I see it used in descriptions of cues, it is referring to Madagascar Rosewood [Dalbergia Baroni].
 
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Bois de Rose is used to describe many different kinds of Rosewood. When I see it used in descriptions of cues, it is referring to Madagascar Rosewood [Dalbergia Baroni].

There are 14 kinds of Madagascar Rosewood iirc.
 
I must be missing something because I can not find Tulipwood listed on the Janka hardness testing page. Also, for Ridelikethewind, Bois de Rose is another name for Tulipwood, not a different type of rosewood.
Tulipwood has a specific gravity of .96 and purpleheart is at .86 and about 6 pounds per cubic foot lighter.
Brazilian Tulipwood: dalbergia decipularis
Bois de Rose: dalbergia maritima
Madagascar Rosewood: dalbergia baronii

None look the same.
 
Bois de Rose is used to describe many different kinds of Rosewood. When I see it used in descriptions of cues, it is referring to Madagascar Rosewood [Dalbergia Baroni].

With all due respect, but Bois de Rose is actually Dalbergia Maritima. It is a subspecies of Madagascar Rosewood, in that it is only found on the island of Madagascar...which is no longer legally exporting any of their species of wood, as it is now considered endangered. There are approximately 47 species of rosewood found on the island of Madagascar.

The French translation for Tulipwood is called Bois de Rose. Tulipwood is Dalbergia Frutescans, and is generally found in Brazil and Burma. Both Bois de Rose and Tulipwood are what are considered 'true' rosewoods...as the rosewood family is quite varied...lots of 'kissing cousins'.

What both BdR and Tulip have in common is that they are both very 'wet' woods, and can take quite some time (years) to season properly. If not seasoned properly, they are prone to movement. I am told that both smell wonderful when cutting, however, many makers will not use BdR as it does tend to 'bleed' like a stuck pig, and can stain other, lighter colored woods if proper care is not taken.

I may well have one of the only full spliced BdR cues in existence, and into a BEM nose, the cue plays like a dream. I am told that with regards to playability, it is very close to that of the dark Brazilian Rosewood of old. It has a ton of resonance to it, translating into terrific feedback throughout the length of the cue. I cannot wait until my Tulip/BEM full splice is completed, so that I can compare the two 'hits' side-by-side. :D

Lisa
 
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