Help! I'm at wit's end.

billiardbum said:
How do you get the tip perfectly flat now? I have always wondered how flat my tips are once I sand the back of them...

Jim: Invest in a small 9 x 12" granite surface plate from Grizzly ($19.95) PN G9648. Use 320 (or whatever) grit paper in a figure 8 pattern. It will be flat.
Also great for getting trim rings dead flat.

Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues

PS: You will need it for that guitar you are going to make.
 
QMAKER said:
Jim: Invest in a small 9 x 12" granite surface plate from Grizzly ($19.95) PN G9648. Use 320 (or whatever) grit paper in a figure 8 pattern. It will be flat.
Also great for getting trim rings dead flat.

Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues

PS: You will need it for that guitar you are going to make.
BOB- that is what I do now, but thought I might learn something new...Do not think im going to get a guitar done before xmas this year... Maybe next year for the boy.
 
billiardbum said:
How do you get the tip perfectly flat now? I have always wondered how flat my tips are once I sand the back of them...

I have a flat board that I put the sandpaper on, and I sand in one direction. Previously, I was taught to just go back and forth. I think going back and forth is where I screwed up in the past. It didn't take much to "lean" the tip once during stroking the tip and roll an edge.

To check, I put the razor blade up against the tip, and look at a light. I check at three or four angles.

Fred
 
Cornerman said:
I have a flat board that I put the sandpaper on, and I sand in one direction. Previously, I was taught to just go back and forth. I think going back and forth is where I screwed up in the past. It didn't take much to "lean" the tip once during stroking the tip and roll an edge.

To check, I put the razor blade up against the tip, and look at a light. I check at three or four angles.

Fred
Similar to my method, I learned the hard way early on also. Thanks for the info
 
I use 150 grit peel-n-stick sanding disks on a piece of 1/4" plate glass, sanding in figure 8's.
 
> In my experience,the combo of the chuck being not tight enough,the bit being dull,and the crossslide not staying still were the culprits in my case. I made a better collet system,and use a SDJCR toolholder for facing. This uses a DCMT 21.51 indexable carbide insert with a .007 radius on the end,and haven't had one dome on me yet,and they cut ferrules and tips GREAT. For sanding the back of tips,I use a 1/4 thick ground steel plate with 220 grit adhesive backed paper stuck to it,and another identical block with 400 on it. When I change the paper,I use a fresh blade and scrape it back clean before putting the paper back on. I use the back side of the plate to check the flatness,looking up at the light and turning several times. I'd like to have a sheet of that Sandvik Sandplate that Brunswick uses on their shaper that comes in the accessory kit with a new table. Tommy D.
 
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QMAKER said:
Jim: Invest in a small 9 x 12" granite surface plate from Grizzly ($19.95) PN G9648. Use 320 (or whatever) grit paper in a figure 8 pattern. It will be flat.
I must be the dumbest MF out there. Can you believe that I've had a granite surface plate in my desk drawer for over 5 years doing nothing but collecting dust because it's too small for our normal use?

Fred <~~~ eeeedeeeut
 
Cornerman said:
I must be the dumbest MF out there. Can you believe that I've had a granite surface plate in my desk drawer for over 5 years doing nothing but collecting dust because it's too small for our normal use?

Fred <~~~ eeeedeeeut

You should not be so hard on yourself!.........Things as small as something like this happen occassionally to us all. When ever I am doing something repetative I am always looking for a different way to end up with the same or better end result with less time involved. We sometimes just get in shell and have a hard time poking our heads out!

I was once watching a builder glue joint collars on as he had done for many years and was watching him struggle with keeping the glue clean from getting in the centers of each end.
When he was finished I just asked him why he didn't put a piece of tape over the ends before he started? He wouldn't speak to me for the rest of the day!!
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
You should not be so hard on yourself!.........Things as small as something like this happen occassionally to us all. When ever I am doing something repetative I am always looking for a different way to end up with the same or better end result with less time involved. We sometimes just get in shell and have a hard time poking our heads out!

I was once watching a builder glue joint collars on as he had done for many years and was watching him struggle with keeping the glue clean from getting in the centers of each end.
When he was finished I just asked him why he didn't put a piece of tape over the ends before he started? He wouldn't speak to me for the rest of the day!!
i know who you're talking about. ;) he told me ALL about that.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
You should not be so hard on yourself!.........Things as small as something like this happen occassionally to us all. When ever I am doing something repetative I am always looking for a different way to end up with the same or better end result with less time involved. We sometimes just get in shell and have a hard time poking our heads out!

I was once watching a builder glue joint collars on as he had done for many years and was watching him struggle with keeping the glue clean from getting in the centers of each end.
When he was finished I just asked him why he didn't put a piece of tape over the ends before he started? He wouldn't speak to me for the rest of the day!!
Dave, You are so correct...Sometimes the obvious is not always obvious. That is why I read the post most of the time, to see how I miss the little things in cuemaking or everyday life.
 
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