Help Measuring Rail Heights?

Patrick Johnson

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
We were discussing rail height (not cushion nose height, but the height of the top of the rail, the lowest you can get a level stick) in another thread, and I decided to find out how the rail heights of different brands of pool tables compare. Today I measured three or four models of Brunswick, four or five models of Olhausen and my own Diamond Pro, and discovered a surprising fact: because of a different cushion design, Olhausen rails are 1/4" lower than both Brunswicks and Diamonds, a significant playing advantage.

Rail height is important because cushion nose height is about 1 7/16", only about 1/4" short of the highest you can hit on the cue ball without miscueing. So it doesn't take much extra rail height above the cushion nose to make it very difficult or even impossible to hit the cue ball with a level cue, raising the risk of swerve on virtually every shot.

The rails of Brunswicks and Diamonds, with K-66 cushions, rise 1/4" above cushion nose height, making it just barely impossible to hit the cue ball with a level cue. So Olhausen's 1/4" height advantage is huge - it means that follow shots from just above natural roll to maximum (the top third of the follow range) can be hit with a level cue, whereas on Brunswicks and Diamonds no shots can be hit with a level cue.

I wonder about the other table brands and the other models of Diamonds (including bar boxes); I think it would be helpful information for potential table buyers and players in general to have. If you're able to measure any brands of tables that I haven't mentioned here, please do so and report your measurements here so we can see how table brands compare in this important way. To be consistent, please measure rail height by laying a straight edge across two rails (near the corner is easiest) and measure from the table surface to the bottom edge of the straight edge.

The measurements I have so far are:

Brunswicks (all models). . . . 1 3/4" (no space for level hit)
Diamond Pro . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3/4" (no space for level hit)
Olhausens (all models) . . . . 1 1/2" (3/16" space for level hit)

Thanks in advance,

pj
chgo
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
We were discussing rail height (not cushion nose height, but the height of the top of the rail, the lowest you can get a level stick) in another thread, and I decided to find out how the rail heights of different brands of pool tables compare. Today I measured three or four models of Brunswick, four or five models of Olhausen and my own Diamond Pro, and discovered a surprising fact: because of a different cushion design, Olhausen rails are 1/4" lower than both Brunswicks and Diamonds, a significant playing advantage.

Rail height is important because cushion nose height is about 1 7/16", only about 1/4" short of the highest you can hit on the cue ball without miscueing. So it doesn't take much extra rail height above the cushion nose to make it very difficult or even impossible to hit the cue ball with a level cue, raising the risk of swerve on virtually every shot.

The rails of Brunswicks and Diamonds, with K-66 cushions, rise 1/4" above cushion nose height, making it just barely impossible to hit the cue ball with a level cue. So Olhausen's 1/4" height advantage is huge - it means that follow shots from natural roll to maximum (the top half of the range) can be hit with a level cue, whereas on Brunswicks and Diamonds no shots can be hit with a level cue.
I wonder about the other table brands and the other models of Diamonds (including bar boxes); I think it would be helpful information for potential table buyers and players in general to have. If you're able to measure any brands of tables that I haven't mentioned here, please do so and report your measurements here so we can see how table brands compare in this important way. To be consistent, please measure rail height by laying a straight edge across two rails (near the corner is easiest) and measure from the table surface to the bottom edge of the straight edge.

The measurements I have so far are:

Brunswicks (all models). . . . 1 3/4" (no space for level hit)
Diamond Pro . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3/4" (no space for level hit)
Olhausens (all models) . . . . 1 1/2" (3/16" space for level hit)

Thanks in advance,

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

Curious myself based on the discussion in the other thread Patrick mentioned I did some research starting in the Ask a Mechanic forum here at AZ. Anyone interested in a THOROUGH discussion of the major mfg. cushions should visit the Rail Height thread there.

Cuebecca stated in another thread that both Diamond and Brunswick use K-55 cushions. I confirmed that with Diamond by phone but have not called Brunswick.

I also received the following e-mail from Diamond's head of sales.


The correct measurement for the nose of the cushion should be set at 1 29/64" plus or minus a 64th ". The top part of the rails on our Professional tables are designed with a wooden featherstrip which holds the rail cloth into the featherstrip channel behind the cushions. This is done not only for playability reasons but also so that when using a level cue stroke the cue stick itself never actually makes contact with the wood on the top rails.

Brian Miller
Director of Sales
DIAMOND BILLIARD PRODUCTS, INC.
(812)288-7665

With respect, and IMHO, Patrick places too much emphasis on the height above the center of the CB that can be struck successfully without miscueing. He refers to that upper boundary of 0.6 inches...which is the top of the stripe on "wide stripe" balls...as a "limit", but that is too strong a word.

Above that height GREAT CARE must be taken to strike the CB on its exact vertical centerline..becuase being round, the "top" of the ball becomes progressively lower on either side of exact, "top dead center."

In addition, you can only avoid miscueing of fairly soft shots.

I have an Olhausen with a 1/4 inch lower top rail so as Patrick points out there is NO problem on my table striking the CB with a level cue when the CB is frozen to a rail...and I can use what I consider to be "medium" force...causing at least 2 1/2 tables of travel.

However, to simulate a 1/4 inch higher top rail I took the lid of my tin of Master Spots, which happens to be exactly 1/4 inch.

I placed that lid (slightly larger than a break spot) on the top rail and stroked dead level...if anything tilted SLIGHTLY upward, and with a well chalked dime radius tip, I had no trouble sending the CB two full rail lengths. Three attempts to send the CB farther than that resulted in miscues.

This is not hair-splitting, but instead is rather important because frozen to the rail CB shots come up with some frequency...and are are MISSED with some frequency by those who feel they must jack up in order to avoid a miscue and in so doing, impose the forces of swerve and/or squirt.

GRANTED, if to achieve position, the CB must be stroked other than quite softly, then the shooter is forced to jack up and pay SPECIAL attention to striking the CB exactly on its vertical axis.

But when only moderate post-impact CB roll is required, jacking up is not necessary to avoid a miscue even on the higher Diamond/Brunswick K-55 cushion profile.

NOTE: The above was tested only on my dime radius tip which is well known to permit slightly more off-center contact than is possible with the nickel radius. In addition, my tip...a Moori Medium... was well chalked and scuffed so CAUTION...your results may vary.

Regards,
Jim
 
Patrick Johnson said:
We were discussing rail height (not cushion nose height, but the height of the top of the rail, the lowest you can get a level stick) in another thread, and I decided to find out how the rail heights of different brands of pool tables compare. Today I measured three or four models of Brunswick, four or five models of Olhausen and my own Diamond Pro, and discovered a surprising fact: because of a different cushion design, Olhausen rails are 1/4" lower than both Brunswicks and Diamonds, a significant playing advantage.

Rail height is important because cushion nose height is about 1 7/16", only about 1/4" short of the highest you can hit on the cue ball without miscueing. So it doesn't take much extra rail height above the cushion nose to make it very difficult or even impossible to hit the cue ball with a level cue, raising the risk of swerve on virtually every shot.

The rails of Brunswicks and Diamonds, with K-66 cushions, rise 1/4" above cushion nose height, making it just barely impossible to hit the cue ball with a level cue. So Olhausen's 1/4" height advantage is huge - it means that follow shots from just above natural roll to maximum (the top third of the follow range) can be hit with a level cue, whereas on Brunswicks and Diamonds no shots can be hit with a level cue.

I wonder about the other table brands and the other models of Diamonds (including bar boxes); I think it would be helpful information for potential table buyers and players in general to have. If you're able to measure any brands of tables that I haven't mentioned here, please do so and report your measurements here so we can see how table brands compare in this important way. To be consistent, please measure rail height by laying a straight edge across two rails (near the corner is easiest) and measure from the table surface to the bottom edge of the straight edge.

The measurements I have so far are:

Brunswicks (all models). . . . 1 3/4" (no space for level hit)
Diamond Pro . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3/4" (no space for level hit)
Olhausens (all models) . . . . 1 1/2" (3/16" space for level hit)

Thanks in advance,

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

Brunswick, use to make a gage for rail height on there tables. Check your local table Machanics one of them may have one. The gage sat on the slate similar to a L-bracket. The gage had a gap for the Cushion Nose too fit into, then you would slide it along the rail to check the height and to see if the cushion nose was even along the entire rail.

If I remember correctly I think the gage would check the proper height of k-55 and K-66.

Have a good day!!
 
manwon said:
Brunswick, use to make a gage for rail height on there tables. Check your local table Machanics one of them may have one. The gage sat on the slate similar to a L-bracket. The gage had a gap for the Cushion Nose too fit into, then you would slide it along the rail to check the height and to see if the cushion nose was even along the entire rail.

If I remember correctly I think the gage would check the proper height of k-55 and K-66.

Have a good day!!
Click to expand...

You make an excellent point. Due to manufacturing and/or installation imperfections, the rail height can vary slightly from one cushion to another.

Regards,
Jim
 
Bumping this thread as a reminder...

I'd appreciate any measurements of rail height for tables other than Brunswick, Olhausen and Diamond Pro.

Thanks,

pj
chgo
 
sarcastic silliness as always - never saw you as asking for any help.

actually like jim & you bang it.
 
olauzon said:
sarcastic silliness as always - never saw you as asking for any help.

actually like jim & you bang it.
Click to expand...
Oh... LOL. Judging by the responses I'm getting, nobody else thinks I need any either.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Oh... LOL. Judging by the responses I'm getting, nobody else thinks I need any either.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

Dreams are wonderful things! (-:


But back to the real world, I stopped in the AZ room and attempted a shot on a frozen CB. I made 3 attempts...with witnesses watching and judging whether the cue was actually level. I game was in progress, so I just borrowed a cue and attempted 3 shots.

The 1/4 inch greater height of the Diamond Pro K-55 profile cushions vs. my Ohlausen was sufficient prevent the shot from being made without a miscue on my 3 attempts.

The shot rolled dead straight ahead more than half a table length on 2 attempts so a shot from a side rail to an opposite pocket could be made.

It was my position that the shot could be made without miscuing...not that it could be made in spite of miscueing.

At the start of this debate, I think it is fair to say that neither Patrick nor I were aware that there was a full 1/4 inch difference in the top rail height of our respective tables. So, it seems to me that I was wrong about Diamond Pro tables and he was wrong about Olhausen tables.

Since I used a borrowed cue that appeared to have a thicker shaft than mine and a nickel radius tip, I will give the shot one more test tomorrow to see if the shaft diameter and rounder tip radius makes any difference...but just from looking...I would be surprised if that will make any difference.

Even though I think we were both wrong from the beginning, I would have bet that I could have executed the shot even on a Diamond, so I have to man up to that.

But as far is the "popularity contest" Patrick implies in his above post, since only 2 posters, other than me, replied to his call for help...in spite of the thread being bumped twice by me and twice by him...it seems that neither of us have done ourselves any good here with our bickering...which I have promised to be done with...and AM done with.

Regards,
Jim
 
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