help on buying my first table

[trentfromtoledo]

There are only a few guys in the country I would trust to cut into rails. This guy does excellent work and is a true gentleman to work with. Dont settle for less. Good luck.

Jack Zimmerman

‪(812) 756-2899‬ • mobile

I'm doing some research here, looks like I found some guys in London Ontario that does it, Sent them an email.

Let's see, if anyone knows who could do it for me let me know and I will contact to get a quote

FL


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[ideologist]

There are only a few guys in the country I would trust to cut into rails. This guy does excellent work and is a true gentleman to work with. Dont settle for less. Good luck.

Jack Zimmerman

‪(812) 756-2899‬ • mobile

Funny, that's a different country

 

[trentfromtoledo]

But is Canada reaaaaally a country? I think of it as our un claimed cousin who is still owned by the Queen! Jokes aside. I have only ONE Canadian mechanic in my rolodex, so IMO their country is irrelevant concerning rail work!

TFT

Funny, that's a different country

 

[aaronataylor]

There are only a few guys in the country I would trust to cut into rails. This guy does excellent work and is a true gentleman to work with. Dont settle for less. Good luck.

Jack Zimmerman

‪(812) 756-2899‬ • mobile

I'd love to hear your short list of qualified table mechanics for rail work. Who are in your top 5 ?

 

[trentfromtoledo]

I am leaving out a few names on purpose. These are the people I know for a FACT can perform quality subrail work/ replacement.



Jack Z- I work strictly with him and have had excellent results.

Jerimy Chambers- Not only can he do subrail work, he makes amazing replacement rails,
him and his family have 100+ years in the pool table business!

Jay Speilberg- legend status. period. can make any table play amazing and
understands every cushion on the market from then and now.

Zach Jonas- great all around mechanic and has his own railwork skillset

Josh Ebert- recalibrates with the best of them and is a meticulous mechanic.

I'd love to hear your short list of qualified table mechanics for rail work. Who are in your top 5 ?

 

[aaronataylor]

I am leaving out a few names on purpose. These are the people I know for a FACT can perform quality subrail work/ replacement.



Jack Z- I work strictly with him and have had excellent results.

Jerimy Chambers- Not only can he do subrail work, he makes amazing replacement rails,
him and his family have 100+ years in the pool table business!

Jay Speilberg- legend status. period. can make any table play amazing and
understands every cushion on the market from then and now.

Zach Jonas- great all around mechanic and has his own railwork skillset

Josh Ebert- recalibrates with the best of them and is a meticulous mechanic.

Thank you for your candor, Trent. This should really be in its own thread!

 

[rexus31]

I am leaving out a few names on purpose. These are the people I know for a FACT can perform quality subrail work/ replacement.



Jack Z- I work strictly with him and have had excellent results.

Jerimy Chambers- Not only can he do subrail work, he makes amazing replacement rails,
him and his family have 100+ years in the pool table business!

Jay Speilberg- legend status. period. can make any table play amazing and
understands every cushion on the market from then and now.

Zach Jonas- great all around mechanic and has his own railwork skillset

Josh Ebert- recalibrates with the best of them and is a meticulous mechanic.

Don't forget Steve Leistikow. He's the best mechanic on the West Coast.

 

[trentfromtoledo]

Well I need to make contact with Steve! I am always looking to network with other mechanics. I get around this great USA of ours and never hurts to know people all over!!!

TFT

Don't forget Steve Leistikow. He's the best mechanic on the West Coast.

 

[Push]

GC1 for sure. Can't beat the classic union built quality and easily restorable to kind of look and finish you want.

 

[bignick31985]

Mark Gregory did my GC4 subrails extensions, redid the angles (Diamond spec pockets) and new Superspeeds and it plays lights out. He's one I'd trust to chop them up as well. But he's in the Southeast US, so that's a bit of a lengthy trip for them to make.

 

[Flguti]

Restauration on the way

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[rexus31]

Restauration on the way

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Cool! I used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean my counter bezels followed up with some metal polish.

What's the game plan for the pocket castings and extruded rail trim?

 

[Bob Jewett]

Restauration on the way

(pictures of GC score wheels being fixed...)

Most of the score wheels where I play have broken/missing clicker parts so the wheels either barely turn or just spin. Are those easy to fix?

 

[rexus31]

Most of the score wheels where I play have broken/missing clicker parts so the wheels either barely turn or just spin. Are those easy to fix?

Here's a solution.

https://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=5060479&postcount=10

 

[Flguti]

Cool! I used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean my counter bezels followed up with some metal polish.

What's the game plan for the pocket castings and extruded rail trim?

I'm debating, the chrome in some areas is quite bit up

I'm trying polishing them to see what I can get but I'm tempted to paint them black, still thinking

Polished parts:

Still you polish

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[Flguti]

Most of the score wheels where I play have broken/missing clicker parts so the wheels either barely turn or just spin. Are those easy to fix?

The arms are broken, the wheels are good, I liked the ideia posted above, was thinking on tmhow to do it, will go that way

My parts

Any idea where I can find these round felts to buy new ones?


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[Flguti]

Here's a solution.

https://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=5060479&postcount=10

Thank you


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[rexus31]

The arms are broken, the wheels are good, I liked the ideia posted above, was thinking on tmhow to do it, will go that way

Any idea where I can find these round felts to buy new ones?

I reused the original felt on mine.

 

[rexus31]

I'm debating, the chrome in some areas is quite bit up

I'm trying polishing them to see what I can get but I'm tempted to paint them black, still thinking

They aren't chromed. The pocket castings are clear anodized aluminum pot metal and the feet are either clear anodized steel pot metal or aluminum pot metal; I've seen both. The rail trim is clear anodized extruded aluminum. I had the extruded rail trim polished and re-anodized but it was expensive ($400). I was going to do the same to the corner castings and feet but it was going to cost $800 and there was no guarantee it would come out good. The guy at the anodizing facility said old cast material tends to rainbow when re-anodized. I opted to have the pocket casting and feet powder coated in near chrome and clear. They came out good are are the perfect sheen to match the original clear anodize but they had to be redone several times due to the old cast material outgassing during the curing process which caused small bubbles. I didn't have to pay extra for the effort so it was more of a pain for the shop. They got them about as good as you can get them. They aren't perfect as there are a few very small bubbles on a few of the pieces but they are barely noticeable. I don't think I would paint them as the paint will eventually fail.

Before:

After:

 

[Flguti]

They aren't chromed. The pocket castings are clear anodized aluminum pot metal and the feet are either clear anodized steel pot metal or aluminum pot metal; I've seen both. The rail trim is clear anodized extruded aluminum. I had the extruded rail trim polished and re-anodized but it was expensive ($400). I was going to do the same to the corner castings and feet but it was going to cost $800 and there was no guarantee it would come out good. The guy at the anodizing facility said old cast material tends to rainbow when re-anodized. I opted to have the pocket casting and feet powder coated in near chrome and clear. They came out good are are the perfect sheen to match the original clear anodize but they had to be redone several times due to the old cast material outgassing during the curing process which caused small bubbles. I didn't have to pay extra for the effort so it was more of a pain for the shop. They got them about as good as you can get them. They aren't perfect as there are a few very small bubbles on a few of the pieces but they are barely noticeable. I don't think I would paint them as the paint will eventually fail.

Before:

After:

thanks for the info, looks nice, but I think I will go for a budget option on mine instead of re-anodize the parts, since that's pretty much an stetic point.