Help with buying SS Joint Material

T

Tony Zinzola

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In an effort to keep the hit of my cues somewhat consistent, but being able to offer a Stainless Steel Joint, I purchased the following from Atlas:

QJOINT 16 ATLAS STAINLESS STEEL JOINT 3/4-16 ID X 1.00"

Figuring that I would sleeve them over phenolic and still use a Radial Pin.

The trouble is, these are I think .875 at the joint. I'm building pool cues, not baseball bats.

Does anybody have any idea where I can get what I'm looking for? I'd also like to get them in .750 in length, not 1.00.

Thanks
 
I'm afraid they're not that thick to begin with, but I guess I could give it a shot with a sample piece.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I'm afraid they're not that thick to begin with, but I guess I could give it a shot with a sample piece.
Click to expand...

I believe Brienna sells tapered steel joints. I have put on 300 or so steel joints that I trim down to approximately .625 in length and I turn the final taper on the lathe. I build my cue and fit the joint to it, not the other way around (fitting the cue to the joint).

Dick
 
Thanks Dick. I'll check into that. Was about to call Tom for some pins, so may ask him as well. I thought it made more sense to build the cue to the joint as you said you do, but what do I know. I have never used a Stainless Steel Joint.
 
Help with pins

Tony Zinzola said:
Thanks Dick. I'll check into that. Was about to call Tom for some pins, so may ask him as well. I thought it made more sense to build the cue to the joint as you said you do, but what do I know. I have never used a Stainless Steel Joint.
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Good luck getting a hold of Tom. I've been trying for a few weeks.
I also build the cue first then make the joint to fit. Have you tried the thin wall joints from uni-loc that atlas sells. Think they go from .842 to .852.
They are designed to sleeve over phenolic.
 
I love those thinwall steel joints for flat-face. You get the look without all the mass. At Ariel's we put on trim rings and phenolic sleeve at .625 and then the steel collar is fit to the joint after the pin is installed. We also undercut a few thou on cue behind collar so the finish can butt to the steel collar. Tom M will make the tapered collars any size. I talked to Tom a few days ago and he was ill for a while and also super busy. He's a good guy to deal with, IMO.

Martin


cutter said:
Good luck getting a hold of Tom. I've been trying for a few weeks.
I also build the cue first then make the joint to fit. Have you tried the thin wall joints from uni-loc that atlas sells. Think they go from .842 to .852.
They are designed to sleeve over phenolic.
Click to expand...
 
jazznpool said:
I love those thinwall steel joints for flat-face. You get the look without all the mass. At Ariel's we put on trim rings and phenolic sleeve at .625 and then the steel collar is fit to the joint after the pin is installed. We also undercut a few thou on cue behind collar so the finish can butt to the steel collar. .

Martin
Click to expand...

likewiswe. i also did a piloted one and it came out great.

ive always been a true ss fan though
 
tony send me your address i will send you a sample ss joint we make there final size and pre tappered ....thanks dick for mentioning me....Lee
 
Tony Zinzola said:
In an effort to keep the hit of my cues somewhat consistent, but being able to offer a Stainless Steel Joint, I purchased the following from Atlas:

QJOINT 16 ATLAS STAINLESS STEEL JOINT 3/4-16 ID X 1.00"

Figuring that I would sleeve them over phenolic and still use a Radial Pin.

The trouble is, these are I think .875 at the joint. I'm building pool cues, not baseball bats.

Does anybody have any idea where I can get what I'm looking for? I'd also like to get them in .750 in length, not 1.00.

Thanks
Click to expand...



well the joints you are talking about are supost to be a tappered and finished joint. Also I hope you are threading the joint not just sleeving it..
 
It sounds like his issue is not actually putting the collar on a cue but the O.D. being oversized...which you can take down just like anything...I use live tooling on mine and have no problems...but in the case of a flat faced joint I'd use the thinwalled uniloc collars...
 
Craig Fales said:
It sounds like his issue is not actually putting the collar on a cue but the O.D. being oversized...which you can take down just like anything...I use live tooling on mine and have no problems...but in the case of a flat faced joint I'd use the thinwalled uniloc collars...
Click to expand...
Are you saying that you turn your stainless steel collars down with a cardide router bit turning at 30000rpm!:eek:
 
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Canadian cue said:
Are you saying that you turn your stainless steel collars down with a cardide router bit turning at 30000rpm!:eek:
Click to expand...
no...lolz...I have a variable speed router and veeeeeery slow feedrates for SS...
 
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