hey it me again...

matthias1988

Registered
I can make pretty much any shot with center cue ball and not worrying about my next leave. When I start to put any spin or follow or draw I tend to miss the shot. Not a lot but enough to make me frustrated. My question is the any specific drills to improve aiming with some sort of english to ingrain it into my mind so when I approach a shat i know instead of worrying about it... And i know practice practice practice... but i want something that can be measured so i can see if i have improved or not.

All input would be awesome

:grin-square:matt
 
Hi Matthias,

i bet you often read and heard the sentence that you need a straight and reproducable stroke-- so even here (or especially), if you re trying to play balls with english it s really necessary.
If you re doing drills using english try to shoot the shots with the same *acceleration/speed*. The sense is easily to understand-- if you re using different speeds on the same shot (with english) the cueball, the deflection will be different. So if you vary too often with extreme speed-variations you ll have a problem to *burn* it into your brain.
And how you already shown up it yourself- Practice is the key here. To vary with english has very much to do with experience and practice.
And again Matthias-- a reproducable (and ofc straight) stroke is absolutley necessary for using english successfully!

Just place an easy ball you will sure pocket and play this ball with different types of english- if you will shoot this ball slowly or with medium speed you will pocket it almost 95 % i bet-- if the distance would be a bit longer and you re trying to hit it harder......the average percentage of your shotmaking-ability will decrease dramatically.

Hope you understood what i meant-- if my english was too low, dont hesitate to ask again and i will take a bit more time in the next posting/answer^^

lg and have fun with practice,

Ingo
 
For follow and draw, simply set up a straight in shot. Practice shooting stop shots, practice drawing the cue ball back to your tip, and practice following the OB into the pocket.

As with all drills, work them progressively. Start with simple close shots, then gradually increase the distance between the balls, as well as the distance from the pocket. You will find a point where you are pushing your comfort level. That's where you need to work.

As ratta suggested, a similar plan for using side spin will work very well. Start easy, and gradually work up to greater distances, which require more accuracy. Remember, a rail shot with the ball 3 inches from the pocket is the same as a rail shot with the ball 30 inches from the pocket if the cut angle is the same.

Steve
 
Matthias...To add to what Steve and Ingo told you, here is another viewpoint. Take a hard look at a red circle CB. The size of the red circle (3mm/1/8") is the size of the contact area between the tip and CB. It also represents a "tip of english". The size of the contact area doesn't change, regardless of how hard you shoot, or where you aim on the CB. Try setting up shots where the OB is no more than 2 feet from the pocket, and the CB is no more than 2 feet from the OB. Start with straight in shots, as Steve advised, and practice stop, draw and follow. Then shoot the same straight in shots, but adding just 1 tip (you can go three tips out at maximum sidespin) of english, with no top or draw. Do them at different speeds and you'll start noticing how much the CB moves offline, and how to adjust your aim, so you can compensate for the squirt of the CB, and still pocket the OB.
Hope this helps.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
great post scott, brings a point to mind that i will expand on.....

Matthias...To add to what Steve and Ingo told you, here is another viewpoint. Take a hard look at a red circle CB. The size of the red circle (3mm/1/8") is the size of the contact area between the tip and CB. It also represents a "tip of english". The size of the contact area doesn't change, regardless of how hard you shoot, or where you aim on the CB. Try setting up shots where the OB is no more than 2 feet from the pocket, and the CB is no more than 2 feet from the OB. Start with straight in shots, as Steve advised, and practice stop, draw and follow. Then shoot the same straight in shots, but adding just 1 tip (you can go three tips out at maximum sidespin) of english, with no top or draw. Do them at different speeds and you'll start noticing how much the CB moves offline, and how to adjust your aim, so you can compensate for the squirt of the CB, and still pocket the OB.
Hope this helps.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

EXCELLENT POINT!!!!! This is not COMMON knowledge imop........as most I see say 2 tips english and their "measurment" is based off the actual whole width of the tip.....this is where we hear the misconception that 3 tips is max english, and being a larger unit that way its a wayyyyy less accurate tip displacement technique

The english necessary to successfully make the outcome do what you want,
is often quite a bit less than what is actually applied.

For example: CB on center of head string and OB on the center diamond against the foot end rail.......

That shot I GIN routinely.......its how I judge the effective CB SQUIRT that the shaft/tip applies to the CB or if you prefer, the DEFLECTION level of the shaft.

I shoot normally with a 12mm tip on a cue/shaft thats very LD or low CB squirt......the maximum tip english i can get without going past the sides of the stripe (miscue point) is 4.5 tips left or right..........the stripe on my centennials is 27mm wide.

I shoot it with a striped ball w/stripe VERTICAL, the stripe width being the accepted general miscue limit which helps as a visual aid/reference.

Using the 12mm old growth shaft I make it by striking the CB @ 1.5 tips or 5.5mm from the exact center of the CB............


Using a 13mm Huebler with original shaft I make it using 2 tips english or 7mm from the exact center of the CB..... SO I AM WAY INSIDE THE MISCUE LIMIT as the side of the tip is even with the left or right edge of the stripe depending on which pocket I'm making the shot in.

I refer to my standard use of english calling it CORE ENGLISH and thats staying within a 2 tip range or within 7 mm of the exact center of the CB......there are some shots that i will displace it 3 tips but its not all that often.

This is why i enjoy shooting with my normal player (12mm) so much as I can get the necessary english needed without having to stray very far from center.......

smaller tip displacement = less CB squirt =Straighter CB PATH=Less Compensation of aim=way accurate


I see this LAGNIAPPE ENGLISH (meaning extra) routinely applied by many players, and i liken it to bunting and having to build up higher velocity so as to be able to BRAKE to "X" speed that you want....higher speed shot is LESS ACCURATE.........EXTRA UNNECESSARY ENGLISH IS ALSO LESS ACCURATE

This is also one reason you see the aftermarket LD shafts being so popular as it helps to dampen the effects of them using SO MUCH ENGLISH.......

all that Lagniappe English does is MAGNIFY your current shafts effects on CB squirt......

English is similar to SALT.........its the best seasoning we can use to modify and BETTER the taste of our game..........but when you use too much salt the food will most definately taste like $hit.



Included is a photo of a diagram I drew on an extra offbrand ball i have. The no name brand ball has a wider stripe than the centennials I use so I shaded in the excess stripe as I don't feel like putting permanent marker on my good set. I transferred my measurements of the shot with both the 12mm low CB squirt old growth shaft and the 13mm huebler maple shaft from the markings chalk marks on the centennials onto the cheap ball.



Long story short (before Steve gets on board and says what i just explained in two sentences lol) be aware and learn the MINIMUM QUANTITY of english necessary to successfully complete the shot. Exceeding the minimum quantity adversely affects your shots accuracy no matter what kind of holy grail shaft we are using.

For this is the reason we teach beginers to play without english to start so they build on their ZERO references, meaning you can't know what 1+ 3 is without knowing what ZERO is.

When you learn what zero can do then you can add the numbers to it and effectively do the "math" correctly without catching any ghosts in your machine.

Zero is king of our known universe,
-Grey Ghost-
 

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EXCELLENT POINT!!!!! This is not COMMON knowledge imop........as most I see say 2 tips english and their "measurment" is based off the actual whole width of the tip.....this is where we hear the misconception that 3 tips is max english, and being a larger unit that way its a wayyyyy less accurate tip displacement technique

There is a lot of confusion in the pool world caused by different definitions of terms used. Tips positions and centerball are common terms with multiple definitions that often confuse players. One should make sure they understand the definition the speaker uses.

My students find that using the width of the tip effective since they can see it and use the tip as a ruler. It's easy for them to accurately adjust the tip in increments of 1/4 the width when first learning it. 1/4 tip is essentially the same as the contact patch method since the tip is approximately 1/2" wide. With practice, they can confidently and accurately adjust in smaller increments.

Either method is fine. The user should use the one that best suits them, and make sure of the definition the other player is using.
 
There is a lot of confusion in the pool world caused by different definitions of terms used. Tips positions and centerball are common terms with multiple definitions that often confuse players. One should make sure they understand the definition the speaker uses.

My students find that using the width of the tip effective since they can see it and use the tip as a ruler. It's easy for them to accurately adjust the tip in increments of 1/4 the width when first learning it. 1/4 tip is essentially the same as the contact patch method since the tip is approximately 1/2" wide. With practice, they can confidently and accurately adjust in smaller increments.

Either method is fine. The user should use the one that best suits them, and make sure of the definition the other player is using.

thats a good point......but your teaching method is just using tip width as a reference and your still teaching them to break it down into smaller parts.......the ones that don't break it down will have more difficulty with precision adjustments imop as they strike/aim at more "generalized" areas if that makes any sense.........
 
I usually just chalk up a cue and shoot the cue ball down the table. When it comes back I pick it up and show my students the blue chalk spot on the ball. Then I explain that when we talk about tips off center, that is the distance we are talking about.
They usually get it pretty quickly.
Later on, I will show them the different rebound effects by hitting 1, 2, 3, or 4 tips off center.
Here's a product that gives a very good visual representation.
http://www.cuesight.com/csbbtb.html

Steve

Steve
 
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