Hole reinforcers

D

dearnold

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So I got my pack of hole reinforcers today. Thing is they are backed with adhesive. Two questions. When using the reenforcers to mark a position on the table, I assume you don't want adhesive getting on there. If so, do they make non adhesive reenforcers? Second, When shooting from a marked location, you don't put the cue ball in the hole of the re enforcer do you? I assume that this would result in cue ball deflection, no matter how minor.

And while on the subject. I suppose if I just cut out a bunch of squares from a typical piece of typing paper that would work just fine. What's so magical about those re enforcers anyway?

Regards
 
We have been using the hole reinforements in teaching for many years, whether on our school tables, or on students' private home tables. They do not leave any adhesive on the cloth. Yes, you put the CB directly on the hole, and no it does not contribute to any "deflection". You want the adhesive backing so that the shot remains exactly the same, for accurate practice results.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
dearnold said:
So I got my pack of hole reinforcers today. Thing is they are backed with adhesive. Two questions. When using the reenforcers to mark a position on the table, I assume you don't want adhesive getting on there. If so, do they make non adhesive reenforcers? Second, When shooting from a marked location, you don't put the cue ball in the hole of the re enforcer do you? I assume that this would result in cue ball deflection, no matter how minor.

And while on the subject. I suppose if I just cut out a bunch of squares from a typical piece of typing paper that would work just fine. What's so magical about those re enforcers anyway?

Regards
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The old kind of reinforcers required licking for them to work. The modern kind comes on a strip and doesn't require licking for them to stick, just like Post-Its. They don't seem to leave any significant residue when removed the same day.

An alternative to reinforcers is to get a tailor's pencil and mark either the base of the ball (typically for drills) or a convenient shadow (to mark positions during game-like situations so you can repeat them). You can get the pencil either in cartridge-pencil form or as a pencil that you can put in a sharpener. Crafts stores such as the Michael's and JoAnn chains have them. If you have a (stereotypically) female relative who sews, she may have an extra or a source. Something like http://www.tailorschalks.com/tailorpencils.htm The chalk rubs off fairly easily. It is also good for marking the head string and whatever other spots/line you want to mark on your table if you don't want a permanent mark.
 
I've been using hole reinforcements for years, and if you take them off the same day then there isn't time enough to leave a residue. As for deflection, I use the see through plastic ones for Slug Doctor and convinced several skeptics that they don't affect the ball path.
 
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Small squares of green painters masking tape also works well. Cut a small square, tap a dent in it and the ball finds the low spot. You can also use the tape for demarcation of lines and areas if you want. I have left the masking tape on my 860 for weeks and removed without any residue. If you use it as a line it may leave a "ghost" line after the tape is removed. I believe this is caused by the tape reorienting the fibers in the cloth when it is removed. The "ghost" line will disappear after a few hours of play.

Jo
 
I printed pictures of pool balls out, and I place the balls on them. I have the red dot cue ball cut out in the shape of a quarter moon, this way it shoots thru the open side, and is always in contact with the table. They work really well.
 
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