House cues

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Just wondering what a fair price for re-tipping 1 piece house cues? My local bar that I play out of just asked me do do 30 of them ASAP. I do them on my micro-lathe, then put them on my Atlas and sand down the first 25" or so to get the dirt/crap off. I gave them a price of $3 each. I usually use either Elkmasters or Silver king. Too high, too low, or in the range? Thanks,
Dave
 
In my opinion, $100 a cue would be too low. They're not going to take care of them anyway. I guess it's up to whether you want to do the work or not.

I know somebody else who gets around $5 per cue for that and he complains about it all the time.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
In my opinion, $100 a cue would be too low. They're not going to take care of them anyway. I guess it's up to whether you want to do the work or not.

I know somebody else who gets around $5 per cue for that and he complains about it all the time.
I usually do 20 at time,i pick them up and take back,i charge $8.00,it takes time,power,wear and tear same as any other job so i think we deserve to get paid for it.$3.00 seems very low to me
 
5 bucks

I agree 3 dollars is too cheap. I would get at least 5 dollars too. If they don't like your pricing they can always serch for someone else or try to do it themselves.

Kevin
 
Kevin,
I get the full $10.00 here unless its a bar, club, or a fire house then I get $8.00, house cues are a pain in the azz.

mickey
 
I agree as well. $3 is way way to cheap. Lets see bars over charge for liqur and pool now cost a $1 per game ( in my area). Those table make a lot of money for the bar they can afford to pay you a decent price. Just dont sell your self short when it comes to repairs.
 
Dave38 said:
Just wondering what a fair price for re-tipping 1 piece house cues? My local bar that I play out of just asked me do do 30 of them ASAP. I do them on my micro-lathe, then put them on my Atlas and sand down the first 25" or so to get the dirt/crap off. I gave them a price of $3 each. I usually use either Elkmasters or Silver king. Too high, too low, or in the range? Thanks,
Dave
I have a set up on my lathe for doing house cues where it supports the end of the cue. I put the cue in the lathe face off the old tip and glue on the new one. Let it sit for a couple of minutes then take it done and shape it. I sand it a little and polish up the ferrule. I do them for $6.00 each with a Le pro tip. The total time the cue is in the lathe is maybe 5 or 6 minutes. You also have to take into account that working on house cues is not very critical compared to say the shaft on a $1000.00 custom cue. They just want a decent tips that will stay on. It is easy, quick and very profitable if you are set up to do it. I have condo's who have pool tables who bring me 30 to 50 cues at a time. I see it as easy money. Defiantly worth doing.
$3.00 is too cheap I think though.

Just my opinion though.
 
house cues

I would charge at least $8.00 per cue.
If you clean/condition the shaft with installing a new tip,
$8.00 is a fair price.

How much do charge for a low end tip?
How much do you charge for clean/condition a shaft?

My price would be $30.00 (tip + shaft)
Tip Guaranteed ( comes off -reglued free // tip is a dud-
new tip- free)

So, 30-8= $22.00 of income lost. (for doing house cues)

However, You could get good advertisement from
doing this.....could pay off much more.....later!



do not work with warped house cues....pain in ass...
not worth the time.... could cut off...install one of your shaft rejects(must be straight)....make a nice straight house cue...ask for a little more cash....with good ferrule & tip...could bring in more
repair cash?

Many of times,I get a call.....sax...I WANT the same ferrule/tip you put on that house cue....$30.00 tip + $30.00 ferrule + $15.00 clean/condtion shaft = $75.00
makes up for the lost income for doing house cues!!!!!!

I give new customers some free stuff....hand full of chalk.... bag of smooth stroke power.....tip shapper.........SOME business cards...


WORD of MOUTH advertisement......PRICELESS!



later,
sax
 
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Just another data point to consider, you can buy a new house cue c/w tip for $30.

Dave
 
$4.00 tip $4.00 extra for ferrule.

I also built a jig that could hold the entire cue. After I got a system down I could do 100 in 8 hours. Doing one at a time is a waste of time.

They're all warped. Your jig needs to be strong enough to hold them straight.
About 25% of them need ferrules.
I cleaned them with 220 sandpaper (cheap crap from the dollar store).

It was a nice days pay when I was learning how to build.
$500 day
 
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Graciocues said:
$4.00 tip $4.00 extra for ferrule.

I also built a jig that could hold the entire cue. After I got a system down I could do 100 in 8 hours. Doing one at a time is a waste of time.

They're all warped. Your jig needs to be strong enough to hold them straight.
About 25% of them need ferrules.
I cleaned them with 220 sandpaper (cheap crap from the dollar store).

It was a nice days pay when I was learning how to build.
$500 day
Exactly, and you are never going to hear, "You got a scratch on my ferrule". It is easy mindless work and it pays good if you have a system.
If you don't have the right set up it would be a pain.
 
i get 5$ a cue but i also psuh anyway house cue work as much as possible. not worth my the time for the money.

between tips glue sand paper wax and time wear and tear its just not worth it
 
I kinda figured that it was too low, but they are the real cheap Crest cues, that are warped usually right out of the box. It's been 2.5 yrs since I did them for these guys, and am doing it more as a favor. plus lastnite after bringing 15 of them back, I talked him into recovering one of his tables that is about 12 yrs old and I've recovered it only 2 times. I'm the only one that's done it. The next batch of sticks will be higher, as they are a real pain in the a$$, but as mentioned above, it's not as critical of work and as long as I cover the materials and pay for the heat. I just had to refill my 100lb propane tank today, 2-1/2 weeks after refilling it last time, and it was $75, (that's with me hauling it to Rocky's and back) so these cues just paid for it:smile: I had to build a new jig to do them, but there is some wobble above certain speeds that I'll have to work out.
I started doing them for this bar about 7 yrs ago by hand, that was how I learned to do them and I charged them $2 a piece, but it was a learning experience. Well, thanks for all the input, and I wish everyone a good Monday..
Dave
 
I charge 5 dollars. I replace the ferrules for free if needed on decent house cues because I know I will have repeat business and it makes the next tip replacement easier.

However, if they bring me imports that just look like house cues, I always quote a price that makes them not worth fixing, and try to sell them some Dufferins or Valleys. Now that the afforementioned cues are produced overseas with funny ferrules that are hard to glue to, I may go up.
 
I have got to a point where I can breeze through them easily, so I have a different deal worked out now where I just take care of all of them, and trade out, but when I use to charge per cue, It was around 6-7 bucks. Believe It or not If you get a enough of them to do, then even at that price they add up quickly. The main thing don't let the work become priority. I don't even touch them unless I have at least 5-10, or more of them to do at one time. I think that's the point some are making here, the first couple may start out slow, but If you have enough to do in one sitting, you start to get in a groove and really breeze through.

I get all kinds valley, dufferin, imports You name It, so when I get a batch, one thing I like to do is group them according to the thickness, so that I don't have to keep changing collets until I run into another group of diameters. There's other little tricks too, like I replace them with lepro, so what I try to do is keep a stock of boxes of each size, that way I can match the tips close enough to the ferrule sizes, that all I have to do is crown, and trim the sides with a utility knife. The tips also finish off better and play better when You match them according to ferrule size, so It saves time in other ways too. I've noticed that a lot of those tips that would go bad otherwise, and have to be cut off to start over with another tip may work well for house cues, as long as You match them close enough that You stay in the layer that is tanned, and not have to trim down into the fluff. Another thing that helps with those fluff tips to firm them up some, is when I burnish the sides of the tip, I also burnish the crown, then lastly I come back with sandpaper on the crown to smooth it out, and so that It will hold chalk well.


Like someone mentioned re-tipping is kind of mindless work If you have a system that works for You. And You don't have to spend as much time as You would with a customer cues. I mean You still try to do good work across the board the same, but truth be told most house cues see far more damage in house, then the average repair guy with half a bucket of knowledge could do to them, so you don't have to be quite as careful or move as slowly.

Changing Ferrules though that could be more challenging, and take longer, because as someone mentioned most house cues I see are also warped, and putting a ferrule on them requires much more precision that takes more setup time per cue to get running true enough.
 
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