How can I do this whitout a tap?

mhaimi

mhaimi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey Folks...

maybe you can remember on my thread "searching for an uni loc bullet joint".

Now I finally got everything I need to finish my work.

pinundverlngerung.jpg


Now I have a question. How can I insert the pin without a 5/16x14 tap?

The first part with the diameter of 8mm is no problem.

As you can see I already drilled a hole with a diameter of 6mm. According to an UNC chart the 5/16x14 thread has a 6,3mm hole before tapping (corehole?).

My problem is that I don't have an 6,3mm drill and a 5/16x14 tap. How can I install the pin without these tools? Can I drill an 7mm hole an force it in?
 
Drill out a 8mm hole to an accurate depth and glue in the pin. That is not an ideal way to install that pin but it will work with some very strong epoxy and probably will last.
There is probably a better way.
What is the use of the cue, it looks like a jump cue?
 
SK Custom Cues said:
hammer it in
Click to expand...

SK, why do you always have to be a smartass:confused:

If it were me, I would hold it in my hand, get a high speed drill, and drill it out as fast as I could. I wouldnt worry about wearing gloves, all that protection crap is overrated anyways. :cool:
 
In the absence of a 5/16x14 tap, a workable substitute would be an 8x1.75mm if they make such a tap. Even a 5/16x18 would get the pin set as you only have 2 threads on the pin. Also, you'll either have to drill the hole deeper than needed or use a bottoming tap. You don't have a lot of room to work with.

If no tap is available, Patrick's suggestion will work but I wouldn't drill the entire depth at 8mm. For the threaded area of the hole, I would drill that at 7-7.5mm and force thread the pin in. You will be forming a thread that is only 1/4 to 1/2mm into the wood. Do this before using epoxy to make sure you have a good fit. This will give you the strongest setting of the pin, under the circumstances.

Once the pin is installed and before the epoxy cures, confirm that the pin is running true. Nudge it if needed, then let the epoxy cure.

Good Luck
 
I knew KJ would have the expirenced answer. Force threading it by far is the best solution to get the tighest fit.
 
I'd cut a glue relief in the threads and it will thread itself. Be patient and thread it in and out a few times untill it threads itself. Don't use glue until it threads in. Self threading screw is the idea.
 
@ KJ

That was also my idea, to drill a hole with 7-7,5mm and force it in. I will try it first with a dummy and then with the extension.

Thank you all :thumbup:
 
If you have a lathe with thread cutting ability, you can thread cut it with a sharp threading tool, I would recomend a hss tool as they generaly will hold a sharp keen edge.
The other option is to make a single point tool and use a router to live tooling thread on a lathe. With a homemade single point tool, you want to keep the rpm under 6000 rpm.
As for the hole sizes, you are better off to bore than using a drill. Sometimes cheap 1/4 inch drills are .001 to.002 inch under size, which will give you the 6.3 mm. But McMaster Carr sell them and so does MSC.
As mentioned before, you need some relief for the epoxy to go somewhere. Other wise you hydraulic it and can crack things. I have seen where 1 guy drills a small hole in the shaft to let the air out and the excess epoxy out.Then afterwards cleans it off. He drills just a 1/32 hole or so. It is hardly noticeable.
 
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