How do you clean your shafts?

LastTwo said:
What about steam cleaning your shaft? I used this on an old shaft to test it, and it cleans better than anything out there, even better than magic eraser. What I do is I get a slightly damp cloth and I heat up a clothing iron. I put some gloves on and iron the cloth until steam starts coming out of the cloth. Then I wipe down the shaft once or twice. The white cloth turned dark blue, it cleaned it very thoroghly. It also got rid of all the dings. The grain was raised so naturally I smoothed and burnished. This is an old shaft I dont use anymore, and I don't know if that could have damaged it. Does anyone know?

I have seen someone do this before also, but they used a cherry of the cigarrette, it worked faster, and instead of using water they used spit as the spit didn't run off the wood, put a little spit on the dent and run the cherry of a cigarrette over it until the dent is gone but don't hold it there to long as it will discolor the wood, so you best bet would be using a wet cloth and running the iron over it just take a little longer. Cole.
 
Bamacues said:
We all get our shafts dirty from time to time, some much worse than others. Many cue repair specialists can make them look almost new again. What works for you? How do you take a much traveled shaft and bring it back to life? What cleaner do you use? What other technique (other than sanding)?

I have also heard of "bleaching" a shaft. What is involved/used for this process? Can it damage the shaft wood?

Onepocketchump has a video of him cleaning his cue. When he returns from his relief trip to NOLA, I will try to get him to post it up here.
Very unique video!
Steve
 
coastydad said:
I have used the "Magic Eraser" a couple of times and it does work great, but, does raise the grain a little.

I have used the Magic Eraser several times on my shooting and breaking shafts. One of my shafts (the breaker w/phenolic tip), no matter what I use (I currently use high test isopropyl alcohol), the grain raises. The other three the grain never raises.

So, I don't think it's the Magic Eraser that raises the grain. And it isn't how it's sealed necessarily, as I've had work done on the other break shaft by another cuemaker.

Fred <~~~ no answers
 
Last edited:
The best cheapest easiest way IMO put a damp white cloth in the microwave until steaming and wipe.
 
JimS said:
The Slip STic cleaner works well for keeping the shaft clean after you've first gotten it clean. For cleaning a dirty shaft the Magic Eraser is the best I've found. It does raise the grain some but it takes only a little bit of sanding with 1000 grit to get it smooth and then burnish with leather. Or, clean with Magic Eraser and then use Q Smooth papers to smooth and burnish.

The safest way is to take it to a cue maker and have him/her clean it. Then use lighter fluid or Slip Stic cleaner EVERY TIME you use the stick.
I just received the SlipStic cleaner and conditioner products. After cleaning, should I sand with 1000-grit before applying the conditioner?
 
runscott said:
I just received the SlipStic cleaner and conditioner products. After cleaning, should I sand with 1000-grit before applying the conditioner?

If you do you will need to add 4 drops of the conditioner instead of 3.

I am not a big fan of sanding but many have regardless. And based on feedback, they got the longest use of the first application. Some have gone as much as 2 months without a need for cleaning or anything.

Also, before your next application be sure to use the cleaner first. This will remove any SlipStic left on your stick. SlipStic will eventually tire after a period so you do want to remove it.
 
Bamacues said:
We all get our shafts dirty from time to time, some much worse than others. Many cue repair specialists can make them look almost new again. What works for you? How do you take a much traveled shaft and bring it back to life? What cleaner do you use? What other technique (other than sanding)?

I have also heard of "bleaching" a shaft. What is involved/used for this process? Can it damage the shaft wood?

I am not a shaft cleaning fanatic...Actually I don't like brand new shafts at all. They are too slick for me, I like them a bit slower and dirty for some reason...I think the oils in your hand put a finish on the shaft so to speak that protects it a little from dings also.

If it gets sticky, I will put a touch of rubbing alchohol on a paper towel and wipe it down but thats it...
 
I use ...

I use a biodegradable product called 'Orange' (Kroger product)
with a clean dry cloth. Afterwards, I use a little 'Pledge'
(a polish) with another clean dry cloth.

Works for me, and leaves the shaft pretty smooth.

If it gets too bad, I just take it to my cuemaker in town,
and have him refinish the shaft for about $10.
 
BRKNRUN said:
...I think the oils in your hand put a finish on the shaft so to speak that protects it a little from dings also.

...

Many think that a darker shaft looks bad, but the oils from your hands are what strengthen your shaft from things like warping. (Oils do get through to the shaft with SlipStic on it by design.)
 
Snapshot9 said:
I use a biodegradable product called 'Orange' (Kroger product)
with a clean dry cloth. .

Our first cleaner contained that exact product. We never took it to market because after evaluating the shaft in the lab, it had left behind some residue and moisture . At the least you might want to clean really good with rubbing alcohol after using.
 
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BRKNRUN said:
I am not a shaft cleaning fanatic...Actually I don't like brand new shafts at all. They are too slick for me, I like them a bit slower and dirty for some reason...IQUOTE]

Maybe we should come out with a can of SlipStic Grime to apply to your cue shaft for desired effects.

You are right about not feeling your cue shaft. I too like the same which is why I do not wear a glove. Feel is very important to me. The conditioner does not leave a heavy film like wax or polish due to its very tiny molecular structure. You can feel the shaft it just eliminates the tacky feeling.

Some players like the baby powder feel. They actually used baby powder w/the conditioner on their shaft. The baby powder stayed on the shaft for hours without re-applying.
 
I just started doing something different to clean my shaft. Maybe someone will tell me I am screwing up royally but here goes. I used to take a bar rag and put it under hot water ring it out and wipe off the shaft. Lately I have added a little to the process.

1) moisten a rag (clean bar rag works great)
2) place on paper plate
3)microwave until very steamy
4) fold the paper plate and rag over like a taco around your shaft
5) wipe it down

The rag is WAY hotter this way and all the gunk comes right off, the paper plate protects your hand so the rag can be real hot.
 
breakup said:
I just started doing something different to clean my shaft. Maybe someone will tell me I am screwing up royally but here goes. I used to take a bar rag and put it under hot water ring it out and wipe off the shaft. Lately I have added a little to the process.

1) moisten a rag (clean bar rag works great)
2) place on paper plate
3)microwave until very steamy
4) fold the paper plate and rag over like a taco around your shaft
5) wipe it down

The rag is WAY hotter this way and all the gunk comes right off, the paper plate protects your hand so the rag can be real hot.
Variation:

I don't have an iron or a microwave, so...

1) boil a little water in a sauce-pan (as if you were going to steam veggies the old-fashioned way)
2) drop in a rag, turn over using tongs - if too wet, let it cook a touch longer
3) place in hand towel folded over twice to avoid burning yourself.
4) wipe off gunk.
 
nbc said:
I've seen a lot of pros in the Philippines use Zippo lighter fluid to clean their cue shafts.

I've tried it a couple of times and it does clean the shaft and leave it slick.

And if you have a really crappy shaft, you can douse it with lighter fluid and light it up!

nbc

Meucci shafts burn longest.

PAwnmon
 
breakup said:
1) I get a bar rag wet and ring it out

2) Put it on a paper plate

3) Microwave it until the rag is real steamy

4) Fold the plate/rag around my shaft like a taco and rub all the gunk off

5) Dry with a bar napkin

All materials necessary should be available from your friendly bartender
Well, I hung mine out to dry after subjecting to "steaming", just returned from watching my Astros trounce the hell outuva the hapless, fanless Braves...and the shafts look great. I get a 2-night break from pool until the Astros head back home...irrelevant, but I'm beating my chest right now.
 
Scotch Brite. It's not a sand paper, a couple of passes and your done.
 
renard said:
Scotch Brite. It's not a sand paper, a couple of passes and your done.
Yikes! I used to use Scotch Brite to clean grills when I was a short-order cook...I can't imagine subjecting my shaft to one of those evil pads!!
 
runscott said:
Yikes! I used to use Scotch Brite to clean grills when I was a short-order cook...I can't imagine subjecting my shaft to one of those evil pads!!

It pulls off dirt not the wood.
 
My buddy had an old Meucci Original that had 20+ years of blue chalk grime worn into it. I took a piece of a Magic Eraser and used denatured alcohol to clean the shaft. It did take me 10-15 minutes and several pieces of Magic Eraser, but it came surprisingly clean. Plus, the denatured alcohol seemed to minimize the raising of the grain and all I needed to do was hit it lightly with some 1000-1500-2000 grit papers and it looked like an entirely new shaft. I've been told that denatured alcohol has a lower water content than other alcohols and cleaners. I did take a picture of the shaft 1/2 clean and 1/2 dirty. If I can locate the picture at home tonight, I'll post it.
 
pete lafond said:
I have done the same and have gotten excellent results. I had a very old shaft that was very blue. The only difference is that after steaming it, I had a towel with alcohol rub on it (lots of it) and then wiped the shaft. I then quickly dried it with a dry towel. Doing this frequently is most likely not a good thing. But for a really filthy shaft it works well. The nice thing is there are no chemicals left behind.

Still nothing like a professional cuesmith's job. Every time I've gotten a shaft back it has been better than new.

From what I hear, professional cuesmiths simply take the finest grade sandpaper, put the shaft on the lathe, and sand the cue down ever so slightly, then do the smoothing, etc. Obviously the shaft looks brand new, because a very thin layer of skin has been sanded off. Is this true? If not what methods do they use to clean a shaft?
 
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