How do you heat your pool room ?

PoolFan101

PoolFan101

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For those of you that have tables outside your house like say a garage or a building how do you heat it. My Son has looked into propane but it seems quite costly getting started. He is still working on finishing up the inside with insulation and walls. He has been running a oil filled radiator heater but it seems to not do as well of the evening when temp drops. I hate Kerosene as it gives me a headache and hate the smell it they do heat really good. I read you can put a pan of water on top to kill the smell. Just looking for some ideas and the best route for heat for the building. It is a 16x24. I did not want the pool table to smell like Kerosene either lol.
 
PoolFan101 said:
For those of you that have tables outside your house like say a garage or a building how do you heat it. My Son has looked into propane but it seems quite costly getting started. He is still working on finishing up the inside with insulation and walls. He has been running a oil filled radiator heater but it seems to not do as well of the evening when temp drops. I hate Kerosene as it gives me a headache and hate the smell it they do heat really good. I read you can put a pan of water on top to kill the smell. Just looking for some ideas and the best route for heat for the building. It is a 16x24. I did not want the pool table to smell like Kerosene either lol.
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Don't burn hydrocarbons indoors. Ever heard of carbon-monoxide poisoning?? If you do use a propane heater be sure to get a CO meter to be safe. Those oil radiators work well as long as you have a big enough one for your square footage.
 
Not sure where you're located... but those radiant baseboard heaters are pretty common in apartments up here in Minnesota.
as long as there is sufficient power (require 240v), they do a good job.

The permanent mount ones can be chained together along one wall, and wired to a thermostat.
Don't know if i'd trust the "portable" type.
 
He is still working on finishing up the inside with insulation and walls
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This^^^^^

With 6" walls and 12" ceilings, it will take very little to maintain heat when you are not there. With a couple guys moving around, you may find it gets overheated after some time in use. I really prefer rockwool for insulation. The "critters" don't seem to move it around as much as fiberglass. Though of course in a new build with stopped cavities, that might not be a problem. But it is a better product.

My (late) neighbor built a free-standing shop/garage for his collector cars and had the urethane fill insulation applied in 6" walls before buttoning it up. Unfortunately that place is so well sealed it sweats everywhere and runs standing water on the floors during humid periods. It might be necessary to run a dehumidifier in a well closed/insulated space during warm weather.

To add to the cautions about hydrocarbon burners, yes, that is CO that is giving you the headache. Even with some ventilation, your body sort of prefers CO, like candy that is not good for you. But AFA the pool table goes, combustion products are CO2, CO, and H20. Lots of the latter, to make things wet.

smt
 
PoolFan101 said:
For those of you that have tables outside your house like say a garage or a building how do you heat it. My Son has looked into propane but it seems quite costly getting started. He is still working on finishing up the inside with insulation and walls. He has been running a oil filled radiator heater but it seems to not do as well of the evening when temp drops. I hate Kerosene as it gives me a headache and hate the smell it they do heat really good. I read you can put a pan of water on top to kill the smell. Just looking for some ideas and the best route for heat for the building. It is a 16x24. I did not want the pool table to smell like Kerosene either lol.
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I now use a 220 volt window unit that has ac and heat that cost about $700. Before I used a ceiling mounted 220 volt heater that I got from Greater Northern. Cost around $300.
 
16x24? I think you are going to need a real HVAC system to handle that, if you don't want the kerosene smell.

I have a tiny 1 car garage built in the 1930's I have a lathe and milling machine inside of. I insulated it 20 years ago, and ran a 220v line, and got the biggest wall mounted heater I could find that runs on 220v at 10amps. I have to run it like an hour before I even step foot in the garage to make it somewhat warm. This is in Philadelphia.
 
PoolFan101 said:
For those of you that have tables outside your house like say a garage or a building how do you heat it. My Son has looked into propane but it seems quite costly getting started. He is still working on finishing up the inside with insulation and walls. He has been running a oil filled radiator heater but it seems to not do as well of the evening when temp drops. I hate Kerosene as it gives me a headache and hate the smell it they do heat really good. I read you can put a pan of water on top to kill the smell. Just looking for some ideas and the best route for heat for the building. It is a 16x24. I did not want the pool table to smell like Kerosene either lol.
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Best route or cheapest?
 
The problem with open-flame heaters: they need ventilation. I have a propane infrared heater I like in my garage, but it’s not air-tight around the bay doors. My basement pool room is in the home‘s forced-air loop, but I also run a very small electric/ceramic disk heater under the table to keep the cloth faster. I hope that doesn’t aversely effect the slate joints or frame over time (?).
 
I'm also considering turning my 28' x 16' garage into a pool room and think I'm going to get a Mitsubishi mini split system installed. Granted my garage is the bottom level of my townhouse and not an external building but I imagine it would be similar for your case. You can get systems that do both heating and cooling as well as dehumidifying I believe.
 
Scrunge19 said:
I'm also considering turning my 28' x 16' garage into a pool room and think I'm going to get a Mitsubishi mini split system installed. Granted my garage is the bottom level of my townhouse and not an external building but I imagine it would be similar for your case. You can get systems that do both heating and cooling as well as dehumidifying I believe.
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Yes, a mini split is the way to go. Super efficient and no CO to deal with.
 
I put one of those small 700watt heaters/radiators, that look like thee old boiler/water heating units used is schools and post offices. When the temp drops it kicks on and sitting below the center of the table slate on the floor it's just a matter of adjusting it to what works. But this is not my source of room heat. I've got an in wall A/C unit that also has heat. When I kick it on in the cold months, it usually takes the room a couple hrs max before play time. Now tho, with the dry/sun/colorado heat, if I go out there mid day it warms up Very quickly. Once I'm done I turn if off, but always leave the floor slate heater on. Hope this helps.
 
PoolFan101 said:
For those of you that have tables outside your house like say a garage or a building how do you heat it. My Son has looked into propane but it seems quite costly getting started. He is still working on finishing up the inside with insulation and walls. He has been running a oil filled radiator heater but it seems to not do as well of the evening when temp drops. I hate Kerosene as it gives me a headache and hate the smell it they do heat really good. I read you can put a pan of water on top to kill the smell. Just looking for some ideas and the best route for heat for the building. It is a 16x24. I did not want the pool table to smell like Kerosene either lol.
Click to expand...
Vent free propane heats great, but it causes moisture, so probably not good for a pool table without using a dehumidifier. A CO detector is smart, but they let out less CO than a cooking stove. There is a ceramic element in them (maybe similar to a catalytic converter actually) and they hang on the wall. I'd guess it would work but you'll have to have a dehumidifier. They work really well, I used to use one to heat a house with single pane windows built in the 1890s.

Something like this, though they have them in different sizes and price ranges, this is the first one I looked up. Very fuel efficient. Also available in natural gas. You don't need one with a built in fan, it will probably be running on like 1-2 on the dial that goes to 9. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Gl...ermostatic-Wall-Heater-IRSS30LPT-2P/303388504

These little babies will heat like crazy, no matter how cold it gets. I use one on my back patio if we use it in the wintertime. Large patio with plastic over the screens in the winter, but it will run you out from heat if you turn it too high.
 
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Look into prices on a pellet stove pretty inexpensive. Pellets at half price open bags at Home Depot Lowes Walmart
 
I am running a ptac unit like you see in hotels. Runs on 220 and does heat and air.

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I am at 16 x 21. A $70 1500 watt oil bath circulation heater has worked perfectly for me for 3 years and counting during the winter and the same for a 110V 5000 btu GE window unit in summer. Do not underestimate the power of the oil circulation units. The addition of climate control with those units added $9/month to my electric bill.
 
The Mitsubishi Mini - Split ductless systems.👍🏻👍🏻 I have used these in two houses as a supplement. Also would be good if needed in a garage. They are super efficient and very quiet. Depending on the model, they are only for cooling or can get a model that both heats and cools. Check it out before using another method for cooling/heating.
 
I have an 18k MrCool mini split for heat and cooling. Works very well for both. Don't have to run the heat long on a cold morning to get it comfortable. Temp this morning read 61 degrees in the room, ran the mini split for about 20 minutes and it was up to 70 degrees, which is good for me.

Under $1000 if you DIY. Only added roughly $20 to my electric bill and in SC we had some hot ass days this year.
 
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