How do you level a pool table?
- Thread starter Eturnal
- Start date
I've seen flattened beer boxes stacked up under one end before on a not so level floor.
The first thing you need to do is level the frame. You can do this with shims or old playing cards work well too. Once you have the frame reading level, put the slate on and level the slate (with wooden wedges). If you do these 2 steps first, it makes it alot easier than trying to just level the whole table after you have set it up.
Southpaw
Southpaw
Leveling
I think if you search the table mechanic section, realkingcobra posted good instructions on this. I think he might of even emailed some instructions in a word document. If it's a bar box it's easy, if it's 3 piece slate it's somewhat of a science.
I think if you search the table mechanic section, realkingcobra posted good instructions on this. I think he might of even emailed some instructions in a word document. If it's a bar box it's easy, if it's 3 piece slate it's somewhat of a science.
Listen to Southpaw. Those are the two basic steps. If a three piece slate bed, level the center piece first and then level the end pieces to the center. Playing cards make excellent shims because they are thin, and thus incremental, and also are unyielding over time. Wooden wedges, although sometimes quicker to work with, can work their way out over time. Not so with playing cards. Just don't stack them high enough to enable lateral sliding.
_Rick
_Rick
A water level is probably the best approach. This is a tube with a "dish" at either end that can be moved around the table as needed.
I use a 3 'X 4' old mirror that is not warped. If the balls roll true on the mirror the table is level. I suppose that any really good flat glass would work.
I use a 3 'X 4' old mirror that is not warped. If the balls roll true on the mirror the table is level. I suppose that any really good flat glass would work.
If the leg levelers will not get the frame close, use something solid like slabs of metal, or hard wood. Hard wood is easiest cause you can size them easily (planers).
Once the frame is level, do what the others suggested...
I used to use a machinist level but it was WAY to sensitive to use. It took too long /shrug I have since been using the raw slate to shoot/roll a ball on. Roll it in all directions and if it roll straight on slate, its gonna roll good on cloth... Even if the best you can do is get a slight roll on one plane, no worries... Once cloth is on, its quite amazing how true they roll...
Be prepaired to compromise no matter how you decide to level it. Most slate has some sort of problem... Cloth will even it all out, most of the time...
Once the frame is level, do what the others suggested...
I used to use a machinist level but it was WAY to sensitive to use. It took too long /shrug I have since been using the raw slate to shoot/roll a ball on. Roll it in all directions and if it roll straight on slate, its gonna roll good on cloth... Even if the best you can do is get a slight roll on one plane, no worries... Once cloth is on, its quite amazing how true they roll...
Be prepaired to compromise no matter how you decide to level it. Most slate has some sort of problem... Cloth will even it all out, most of the time...