How expensive is your daily player

My Samsara with a 314-2 matching rings was $3000. I have no intention of worrying any more about it at the table than my thousand dollar viking. I figure if I am worried about hurting it, I probably couldn't afford it to begin with. I know I'll drop it, hit a table with it, or run into something and inevitably put that first ding in the finish.. but hey, as long as Dave is alive I know it's all fixable :)

As far as helping my game, well, probably not a lot.. but help my enjoyment of the game, well that's a different measure :)

Joe
 
Like many others, my cues must play good or they don't stay in my collection - regardless of how fancy they are.

Until recently, my daily player for about 2-years was a Level 5 8-point Alex Brick. It's worth about 2500, but Alex just told me 2-weeks ago that he will never make another one so it's going in the cue cabinet.

So I switched over to a sweet Paul Mottey, which retailed for 2400.

My only J/B cue is an ultra-rare Ron Waller. 3-400 if you could find one.

The only other cue that I play with now is a 700 Blackcreek, which hits unbelievably well. So well that I will be buying more of Travis' work.

To a great extent, I think a custom cue is like a car or a pet. It represents you and tells friends and the GP something about you. It is an extension of who you are, and gives some insight on your personality.

So I could drive a 1985 Ford Escort and would (probably) arrive at my destination. But it would not please me, and I would not enjoy the experience as much. Ditto on cues.

-von
 
It represents you and tells friends and the GP something about you. It is an extension of who you are, and gives some insight on your personality.
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I think that means I have SEVERE multiple personality disorder......... :) :)

All in all...well said, Von.
 
Ahhh, so the selection of a playing cue does involve a bit of ego...thanks for being honest, von.

My playing cue is a Jacoby J-2..just a plain cocobolo, no inlay work. I recently bought a tiger shaft with sniper tip for it. So, about $500 into the cue.

Now to the playability? Sunday past, Cindy & I were in the Cue Ball, Salem Oregon. There we bumped into Matt Horner, one of Oregon's better players. Cindy & I have known and loved Matt since he was in diapers. His deceased father was my college roomate.

So, I asked Matt to play a bit with my cue & shaft. 8 ball, 9 ft. Brunswick table. Cindy broke, pocketed one. Being nervous over the thought of "playing" Matt, she missed.

Matt cleaned the table, pocketing all without a miss. All "easy" shots because he plays excellent cue ball placement.

He told me he thought the cue I have plays just great. Then, he sat down, we were chatting family type stuff as Cindy & I played. I was shooting my usual 3-4 balls before missing.

Matt: "Gee, Paul...what's happened to your cue? It looks like it's reverted back to it's missing ways."

We roared. Yep, the truth can hurt, but it can be funny as hell too.
So much for my thinking that a custom cue costing 4 figures would improve my game. Only more hours of practice & concentration will do that.

Matt just saved me the expense of a prettier cue...:D
 
The high end cues are just flashy and made with custom looks the only thing you are paying to is the look and the guys time that made it for you. The 300 dollar cues will do the work for you. Just find the cue you like that is what really matters. My cue was given to me and I love it I play just as good as I so with the thousand dollar cues.

*If you guys would quit paying such high prices then we all could pay what they are realy worth which is much less than what we all are forced to buy them for.
 
PoolCueSickness said:
I’ve been looking at all the really expensive cues some of you guys own,
And I am just wondering how many people really play with them.Do most
you guys Just collect them and play with a less expensive cue?
And also if you do play with a really expensive cue every day, what do
You think it is worth and what is it ????

Thanks
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Did I already say that I hate this type of question? Especially when you see some of the answers that aim at insulting those that play with more expensive cues.

The price of the cue has no bearing on the ability to play the game. I think those who have expensive cues know this fact more intimately than those who do not buy and use high dollar cues. I can't stress that more, but I'll say it again: those who use high dollar cues know damned well that the price isn't reflective of anything other than price.

That being said, many players will play with high dollar cues. And by "high dollar," I guess I can say " over $2000." But that's the way the market has gone. A relatively plain Lambros cue is already going to be in that $1500 and up range, and a Lambros is one of the most solid cues out there. And you can go down the line with a multitude of makers whose base cue is pretty expensive relatively speaking.

For those that have the all ivory handles, scrimshawed, $10,000 cue, well I know people who play with those as well, but only because they want to, can afford to, don't feel nervous about destroying it, etc.

I think most buyers feel that a cue should be played with. There are only a small amount of true high dollar collectors that won't play with certain cues. The rest of the cue buying public buy cues to play with.

Fred <~~~ floats between the Schuler and the Gilbert
 
Josey SP

I use a Josey SP. Counting both shafts and Sniper tips, just under $500.
 
$600 Falcon M5, bought used for $300 4 years ago, and it's consumed about another $8 worth of Elk Masters and Tweetens glue if that matters.

Dave
 
Palmer Titlist conversion for 35 years. I have no idea of its current worth (bought it for $150 back in the day) but enough people started pointing out that I probably shouldn't just walk off and leave it when I go to the men's room that I finally caved and picked up another player. Now it's a 4 pt. Coker that I am just lovin'. Picked it up used for $450. Using it in conjunction with a Predator BK-2.
Of course, thanks to this forum, I am now looking to move on up.
 
8corneronbreak said:
Predator 5K2 with 314 shaft. $600. i recently won a nice stack of cash (from bowling, not pool), and i'm wondering if i should invest the $200 or so and get a z/z2 shaft. any thoughts?
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For 8corneronbreak. I have a Z shaft on my McDermott and I love it. The 11.75mm tip provides lot's of spin and has very little deflection.

It is worth the 200 dollars although it may take some getting used to as the taper is so different from the 314.

Take care.

Paul.
 
Cornerman said:
Did I already say that I hate this type of question? Especially when you see some of the answers that aim at insulting those that play with more expensive cues.

The price of the cue has no bearing on the ability to play the game. I think those who have expensive cues know this fact more intimately than those who do not buy and use high dollar cues. I can't stress that more, but I'll say it again: those who use high dollar cues know damned well that the price isn't reflective of anything other than price.

That being said, many players will play with high dollar cues. And by "high dollar," I guess I can say " over $2000." But that's the way the market has gone. A relatively plain Lambros cue is already going to be in that $1500 and up range, and a Lambros is one of the most solid cues out there. And you can go down the line with a multitude of makers whose base cue is pretty expensive relatively speaking.

For those that have the all ivory handles, scrimshawed, $10,000 cue, well I know people who play with those as well, but only because they want to, can afford to, don't feel nervous about destroying it, etc.

I think most buyers feel that a cue should be played with. There are only a small amount of true high dollar collectors that won't play with certain cues. The rest of the cue buying public buy cues to play with.

Fred <~~~ floats between the Schuler and the Gilbert
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i agree, i took a solid ivory Ginacue worth waaaaaaaaay more than 10 dimes,out and played with it for 4 hours a few weeks ago on a busy friday night, i havent put a ding in a cue in years , i'm just mindful of things like that same as a watch I can weaer one for a year and it looks new. I would take any cue I own to a spot I know that is cool in my case hollywood billiards or cue-club in vegas(i live in bith cities)

the only cue have that is useless to pllay with is a solid ivory Richard Black and thats because the balance point on that cue makes it unplayable, otherwise i'd us it too.
 
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It's not the Cue!!!

The type of cue you use is probably one of the least significant factors in your game. The tip (quality and shape) has more impact on your game. Just look at the pros. They play with any cue they can get the best endorsement from. Every piece of wood is different (like fingerprints). I've had two (seemingly) identical Schons that several customers have told me hit completely different. I have hit with a "Southwest Cue" and hated it. After putting a Moori tip on it, I loved it. I have a player that shoots with a $100.00 sneaky Pete that would not sell it for $1000.00.
This is one of the main reasons that you should not buy cues off of the internet. If you're a discriminating player, you need to play with the cue before buying it.
I tell my customers that the most important factors are that you (1) have to like the hit. (2) Have to like the feel and (3) you have to like the looks. Anything else is window dressing. You can buy a $2000.00 cue that looks good and feels horrible or a $50.00 cue that looks horrible and hits great.
The amount of detail in a cue (along with brand name) determines it's value. More points and inlays increase cost, they do not improve playability.
Is there a big diference between a $20.00 Wal-mart cue and a $600.00 Schon? ABSOLUTELY! Is the a difference between a $300.00 Joss and a $600.00 Schon? In my opinion, the major difference is the name.
Bottom line - Determine your price range, select the cues that appeal to you the most, hit with all of them and then buy the one that feels and hits the best.
Hope this has been helpful
 
Daily Player

Using a $2,800.00 Paul Mottey built in 1993 cue in a $900+ case.

I have a Chris Nitti cue coming, which will be worth $4K new which I plan to use.

I just do not take these cues to bars with a couple of 7-footers late at night - cause that is asking for trouble. Most of the time, I shoot in the off hours before places really crowded and everyone is juiced up.
 
Am I the only one who thinks it's funny that people seem to be letting their ego get in the way of letting people know what their reg. playing cue is worth?

"I play with a $180 cue, but I have or had a $1,000+ cue or it's on the way..."

Why can't people just answer the question?
 
I play with a Paul Mottey ($1,500 +) two shafts with a jump butt. Recently bought the Predator Z2 shaft ($250) for it and like it a lot. Break with a Malie ($150.00?). And some times play with the Meucci ($150+) made 1993 or so. I haul the Mottey and the Mali around in the Joe Porper leather case (about $150 ten years ago).

Pool is an art form as well as a sport. You really can write with that Z2 shaft like a pencil on a pool table. For me, I like nice equipment that looks and feels like good equipment. I spend three to four hours a day on pool related things so I like to have “good” equipment, that’s all nothing more. It cost me $150.00 to have the Mottey refinished last Christmas and it now looks new again. I am not worried about beating it up as I take reasonable care of it anyway. My kids will get it all when I am gone and they might make a few bucks as the Mottey has already increased in value over what I paid for it.

I think that you can pick up good equipment in a pawn shop or at a pool hall if you are willing to wait. I played with a Scruggs sneaky pete for years and really like it. Contrary to most I think that Meucci makes a good cue. I like the Schon line for looks and playability and Mcdermott has always had a good line

Having played with good, mediocre and inexpensive cues I agree with those who say that after a few hundred bucks you are paying for art work. To each his own. I like good art, hence the photo. All of my cues are “used’” that is the way to get the most value for the buck. Serious pool playing is still a cult so good equipment is fairly easy to come by if you look.

PlayingCues001.jpg
 
Gregg said:
Am I the only one who thinks it's funny that people seem to be letting their ego get in the way of letting people know what their reg. playing cue is worth?

"I play with a $180 cue, but I have or had a $1,000+ cue or it's on the way..."

Why can't people just answer the question?
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I did...but you just prompted me to mention that I have a MINT Palmer model "M" from the 2nd catalog...I play with it once a year or so for nostalgia reasons only. I figure it's my cheap cue, because I bought it new for $125. Of course, that was back in the '70's. :) My plain Jane Jacoby has a much better feel for me.
 
Gregg said:
Am I the only one who thinks it's funny that people seem to be letting their ego get in the way of letting people know what their reg. playing cue is worth?
Click to expand...
Personally, I have no idea how much my playing cue is worth.

Fred
 
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