How to buff out a a metal joint?

hang-the-9

hang-the-9

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Did a forum search but got no hits on this. The Joss I was trying to ID in the Main forums has some scratches on the joint. Is there a way I can buff them out without using a lathe? What to use, regular metal polish, buff cloth on a drill? Is there some anti-corrosion coating on there that I can take off if I do that? Any post-buff treatment I should do?
edit - by scratches, I don't mean anything heavy, just some vertical stripes from use, they may be seen in the picture.

JossCuePoints.jpg
 
Last edited:
hang-the-9 said:
Did a forum search but got no hits on this. The Joss I was trying to ID in the Main forums has some scratches on the joint. Is there a way I can buff them out without using a lathe? What to use, regular metal polish, buff cloth on a drill? Is there some anti-corrosion coating on there that I can take off if I do that? Any post-buff treatment I should do?
edit - by scratches, I don't mean anything heavy, just some vertical stripes from use, they may be seen in the picture.

JossCuePoints.jpg
Click to expand...

Who put the wrap on & why didn't he polish the joint? Also is this the same Q as your pictures9 & 10? The parts in thore pictures looked like they could not be repaired...JER
 
It depends on how well you can polish. I am a mouldmaker , and we often hand polish cores using strips of wet and dry paper. Depneding on the depth of scratches determines the grit starting point.We typically start with 600 grit and use a mix of soapy water, Dawn is good. In your case just cut strips at about 1/2 inch wide full length of the paper.Then 1/2 wrap the paper and draw it back and forth. If you make 45 deg cross hatches you can see the longitudinal scratches and it cuts quicker. If the scratches are fine you may want to start with 800 or 1000 paper. With what ever grade you start with make the 45 deg lines. When you can't see the lines you want to remove, go to the next grade smoother. from 600 use 800 staright down the shaft. It is a good idea to tape off the edges so you don't scratch the part you dont want polished. When all you see is long scratches then go back to 45 deg with 1200, and keep working to 2000 paper. We use this method for two reasons, 1st because we only have a local area that needs to be repaired and second it will make the finish and shape consistant.Depending on how it was made, but with this method you will see the error and flaws that turning will create.Have fun Neil
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Who put the wrap on & why didn't he polish the joint? Also is this the same Q as your pictures9 & 10? The parts in thore pictures looked like they could not be repaired...JER
Click to expand...

The wrap is original, cue is from early 90s. Joint is just used hehe. Not sure what parts you are talking about repairing though :confused:
 
hang-the-9 said:
Did a forum search but got no hits on this. The Joss I was trying to ID in the Main forums has some scratches on the joint. Is there a way I can buff them out without using a lathe? What to use, regular metal polish, buff cloth on a drill? Is there some anti-corrosion coating on there that I can take off if I do that? Any post-buff treatment I should do?
edit - by scratches, I don't mean anything heavy, just some vertical stripes from use, they may be seen in the picture.

JossCuePoints.jpg
Click to expand...

If the scratches are not too deep... Jeweler's Rouge (an ultra-fine polishing compound), and a little elbow grease.
 
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