how to instal a uni lock sistem

procuerepair

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a sneaky pete with a 3/8 -11.5 pin their is no insert in the shaft .
The new pin witch is the unilock has a thread 5/16-14 but part is wider and
flat and so is the insert. Can you please explain with details as I am new
in this. Any help will be appreciated. Thank You!
 
procuerepair said:
I have a sneaky pete with a 3/8 -11.5 pin their is no insert in the shaft .
The new pin witch is the unilock has a thread 5/16-14 but part is wider and
flat and so is the insert. Can you please explain with details as I am new
in this. Any help will be appreciated. Thank You!

If the dimensions are as you say, then it is NOT a Uni-lock pin nor insert.

Dick
 
you need to get a mini boring bar and bore for the shoulder. chris hightower sells mini boring bars

1 drill you hole 1/4 just like your installing a 5x16-14 pin. do not tap yet

2 use that boring bar to bore the flat shoulder to the correct depth. make it perfect. take your time

3 then thread your bottom 1/4 hole 5x16-14

4 epoxy and insert pin. its easy

tap last bc if you tap before boring you could mess up the threads
 
ProCueRepair,

Dave's instructions may be a little over-simplified in that no dimensions are given for depth. However, you should be able to get these by measuring the pin. The pin must be set at the correct depth to permit proper seating of the shaft to the handle. If the pin is too high, the shaft won't seat. If the pin is too low, you won't be getting the one full thread (at least) of contact btwn. the insert & the pin that is needed.

One step that was not mentioned is to provide the recess for the pilot. The connection threads of the pin must set below the face surface of the handle. The depth of the recess I believe is .230/.250" x .500" dia.
The insert is a pseudo-pilot type meaning that the 'head' protrudes from the shaft face.

If you are confident that your lathe is true in it's alignment (tail-stock cntr. to spindle cntr.), a boring-bar isn't necessary and may be an additional expense that you're not ready for. Since this sounds like your first Uni-Loc install, I recommend that you first do a 'dry-fit' (no epoxy) after your machining to insure everything fits properly.

The pin MUST be set true to the cntr-line of the handle or you will create internal stress at the joint causing the cue to roll funny even though both the handle & the shaft may roll true when apart.
 
3/8 x 11.5 sounds like a Bludworth cue ... is it?

Anyone offering professional cue repair (your screen name) should be able to figure that out.

However Uni-loc has published exact detail drawings about the installation of that pin.
I think I saw it on a website sometime back.

To install it you would use a drill bit, a boring tool, and some epoxy.
Wish I could give you more detailed instructions but without knowing exactly what you want I can not.
 
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Frank, you deserve a greenie for your efforts.

No disrespect to you sir but I see at least $500. in specialized tooling to do a Uni-Loc install according to your link. It was Paul Costain, the owner of Uni-Loc that drew the prints and tooling list. Unless ProCueRepair is looking to make a career from installing Uni-Loc sets, his startup costs may be a bit prohibitive. I can assure you that all that tooling is not necessary. I will agree to the carbide drills though but they can be had a very reasonable cost if you know where to look.

I didn't see a print for the pin so I'm hoping it was just an oversight by my antique PC.
 
the mini boring bar from chris is $35. thats all you need and it comes out perfect everytime. i measure depth with my digital caliper. i lock it down at the exact legnth of the shoulder.

i hes not ready to spend 35$ on a tool that i use more then any tool in my toolpost then he shouldnt be doing repair work. i use it to cut everything ferrules tips facing. even to shape tips. it is verry very sharp. all tolerances should be exact anyway so i dont think posting numbers will help. go very slow until everything fits perfect and youll be fine
 
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KJ Cues said:
No disrespect to you sir but I see at least $500. in specialized tooling to do a Uni-Loc install according to your link. It was Paul Costain, the owner of Uni-Loc that drew the prints and tooling list. Unless ProCueRepair is looking to make a career from installing Uni-Loc sets, his startup costs may be a bit prohibitive. I can assure you that all that tooling is not necessary. I will agree to the carbide drills though but they can be had a very reasonable cost if you know where to look.

I didn't see a print for the pin so I'm hoping it was just an oversight by my antique PC.

KJ,

I agree that that link is definetely overkill, but it does provide some great information on the pure geometry of the whole installation process.
When I did my first Uni-loc, I had most everything I felt was necessary to begin with;
Drill, reamer (not really necessary, but it was in a bulk buy of misc. goodies from Boeing surplus), dial indicator and boring bar. About the only thing I needed at first was the 5/16-14 tap, which you can't buy just anywhere, so that was really the only cost to me.

Honestly, most everything on that list, tool post, center drills, indicator and base, and the other stuff, any self respecting cue repair guy should already have, IMHO. If not, then they probably aren't all that serious about the trade and will soon be doing tips again on a drill motor and steady rest.
I may be taking my tool inventory for granted, it's kind of an addiction I think, but you gotta' have yourself some tools!

Thanks for the rep KJ. I appreciate all that I've seen you post. Straight shooter for sure. :thumbup:

Regards,
Frank
 
As for the pin, I couldn't find that info on line, I do have it on my computer however.

Can we post PDF's as an attachment here?

Basically it goes something like this.....

UNI-LOC? PIN INSTALLATION
1. DRILL AND TAP FOR 5/16-14, 2.1 MIN DEPTH
2. BORE .3125 DIAMETER 1.140-1.170 DEEP
3. REMOVE ALL BURRS AND DEBRIS
4. EPOXY UNI-LOC? PIN IN PLACE AGAINST SHOULDER
5. * MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATION
NOTE: IF YOU ARE NOT USING A UNI-LOC? THREADED
COLLAR YOU WILL NEED A COUNTERBORE
.51-.52 DIAMETER .205-.215 DEEP

It's a bit easier to follow with the illustrations though.
All credit for the above info goes to Uni-loc systems.
 
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