How to install a ss joint
- Thread starter PoorBoy B
- Start date
are there any dvds or something to shoe how to install a ss joint. This is killing me.
> I've never installed one,but I've seen some that were taken apart,so I'll tell you what I know.
In almost all cases,if you're talking about a prefabricated SS collar,it's either going to be 5/8-11 or 5/8-18,but not in the truest form. The threads inside the collar are usually going to be a tad looser than you would expect,so the epoxy you use to lock it down has room. Now,this can be compensated for in the diameter of your threaded tenon,but it makes more sense to have the collar a tad looser than a smaller,possibly weaker tenon.
The accuracy of the threads on the tenon are critical,otherwise the collar won't screw on straight and bottom out. This is also critical to how well the pilot hole in the collar centers up,possibly affecting the fit of a snug pilot on the shaft,or concentricity with the pin.
If you are making your own SS collars,make sure to cut the threads a little deeper,and bore your pilot hole nice and clean,with a VERY slight countersink to make up for that 90 degree error in the corner. You also want to turn roughly a .010 per inch taper on the OD,and VERY close to the finished OD of the forearm,maybe .002-.003 OVER,to as much as .010 depending on the thickness of your finish and willingness to put in the elbow grease to polish it back out from a "turned" finish.
It makes sense to me to have the collar done before installing the pin,but that may just be inexperience.
If you're using an existing shaft with an insert already installed it might not matter much unless you're changing inserts,but if you're making a new shaft,a slight compression fitting in the pilot from the insert is the way to go for playability,like a fresh Schon,Scruggs,etc. Tommy D.
In almost all cases,if you're talking about a prefabricated SS collar,it's either going to be 5/8-11 or 5/8-18,but not in the truest form. The threads inside the collar are usually going to be a tad looser than you would expect,so the epoxy you use to lock it down has room. Now,this can be compensated for in the diameter of your threaded tenon,but it makes more sense to have the collar a tad looser than a smaller,possibly weaker tenon.
The accuracy of the threads on the tenon are critical,otherwise the collar won't screw on straight and bottom out. This is also critical to how well the pilot hole in the collar centers up,possibly affecting the fit of a snug pilot on the shaft,or concentricity with the pin.
If you are making your own SS collars,make sure to cut the threads a little deeper,and bore your pilot hole nice and clean,with a VERY slight countersink to make up for that 90 degree error in the corner. You also want to turn roughly a .010 per inch taper on the OD,and VERY close to the finished OD of the forearm,maybe .002-.003 OVER,to as much as .010 depending on the thickness of your finish and willingness to put in the elbow grease to polish it back out from a "turned" finish.
It makes sense to me to have the collar done before installing the pin,but that may just be inexperience.
If you're using an existing shaft with an insert already installed it might not matter much unless you're changing inserts,but if you're making a new shaft,a slight compression fitting in the pilot from the insert is the way to go for playability,like a fresh Schon,Scruggs,etc. Tommy D.
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