How to properly order a cue?

H

Hobart007

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am planning to order a cue from a custom maker though I am not sure who and want to be sure that the order results in a cue that plays well for me.

Aesthetically, I have all of the details nailed down for the most part but to me that is just window dressing. The important parts in terms of playability are length, weight, balance, joint, ferrule, and tip and that is what concerns me the most.

I would like to solicit help from the cuemakers here on some of these items as though I know what cues have played well for me in the past, I don't have the level of knowledge that a crafter of cues would have on these items.

1. Length - I am 6'6" have always played with a 58" cue and have a couple of issues with my technique that I believe come from this. I have a shorter bridge than I would like (4-6"). Even with this, I find myself holding the end of the butt cap and bumper more often than not which makes a consistent stroke a challenge for me. I am thinking that I won't ever do better than the back of the wrap with my height at a reasonable length. I have seen threads on determining the correct length and they always seem to end with "whatever feels good". I don't have the luxury of trying all lengths of cue but have played with a 60" some and it felt better though still short. Any advice on determining the right length? I am thinking to add an extension to my cue, setting up at a table, and tape measuring how far from my bridge hand to my back hand when I can spread out fully with correct technique. Then I would add the bridge length and some length for a butt with my hand on the back of the wrap. Is there more to it than this?

2. Weight - I usually play with a 19 oz At 58". It is a comfortable weight. My worry is that if I add a few inches and keep the weight at 19, will the cue feel too light? Though the overall weight would be the same, the shaft would weight more as it is solid maple and the butt would have to weight less with extra length - I don't want to feel like I am playing with balsa wood! I don't know where to start on this one as I have read on this forum that comfort is a matter of weight coupled more with balance more than weight alone. Any ideas on how I can figure this one out?

3. Balance - I have never been the recipient of much difference in balance as every cue feels more or less the same when held at the butt. This will change with a longer cue. What is a proper neutral balance point - just forward of the rear grip hand on a normal stroke?

4. Joint - This is a can of worms I am not going to open. I have a preference here.

5. Ferrule - I like ivory. Never had it crack but then I store cues properly and don't leave them in cars.

6. Tip - not really a huge thing as this can easily be fixed after the fact if I don't like what is there. Love milk duds. Diameter is another issue but I like 13mm or a little under so nothing hairy there.

7. Taper - I've always played a standard pro taper and see no need to chane.

8. Butt diameter (?) - Being 6'6" means big hands. I have never had an issue w/ standard diameter on a butt. My initial thought is that if it isn't broke then don't fix it. Any input on this that I may need to consider?

The last question I have is regarding the need for all of the information above. Is it better to sit back and just describe how I want it to feel and let the maker do his/her thing or should I treat an order as I do above where I hand them a set of specs, get their thoughts and feedback, and then finalize in partnership with them?

As I've not ordered a cue or designed one but have played with a lot of them I would appreciate any advice anyone here might have.

Thank you,

James
 
Since no one's answered yet I'll jump in. You'll probably get a lot of different answers, but here's my opinion.

Length: Largely depends on how low your stance is and how long your bridge is. My wingspan is 6'2", and for me 60" is about right. I prefer cues that are made with the same length of but sleeve and handle as a regular cue and the extra length added to the forearm and the joint side of the shaft. I would guess a cue about 63" to 64" would be good for you.

Weight: I'm of the school of thought that weight doesn't really matter that much, but it shouldn't be to much of a problem to get what you want. I would work on getting the other specs down.

Balance: I prefer a balance point of about 18" without a weight screw or a heavy joint. The distribution is very even this way and still feels good if you have to choke up or bridge longer on different shots.

This point feels the most natural for me for creating a nice effortless stroke that lets the cue do the work. Forward balanced cues feel more like you have to push the cue into the ball. But, holding the cue at the end for so long means you have always used a very forward balance, and some people prefer that.

Butt Diameter: I think your instincts are right, and I believe a thinner butt encourages a nice cradling grip.

All of this is simply my opinion and these things to me are the most important for me for a comfortable stroke. I take these specs to a cue maker, and leave the rest of your points to them to create their own signature hit.
 
I agree with leaving as much as possible to the cuemaker which is part of my concern in sweating so many of the details. I WANT the cuemaker to be the biggest contributor to the way that the cue is built and how it plays.

I just have to balance that against getting something that meets my needs as well. I guess I am looking for input on getting the specs right as much as how many I, as the end-user, should be considering when planning the cue.
 
I have never had a bad experience with a custom cue order, and here is why:


Neatly write down your questions and concerns, along with desired specs...do this in an organized manner...prior to contacting a maker. Do this especially with regards to a phone convo, as it is easy to get sidetracked in the conversation and forget key points otherwise.

Write down the answers next to those questions and specs, along with any pricing quotes, required deposit (if any), and approximate delivery date.

Write down the date and to whom you spoke with.

If the conversation was via phone (as many are), now take your paper record, and write an email to the maker (As per my conversation with XXX on MM/DD/YYYY...) with everything discussed/quoted and send it to them for confirmation. Now both parties have a written record of the order and specifications. Now if it goes wrong (and it likely will not, dependent upon the maker, of course) you not only have a record, but perhaps possible recourse....depending on how wrong it went. Most makers will be happy to fix a boo-boo, if it is in fact their fault.

This method has served me very well. No nasty little surprises.

Lisa
 
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Hobart007 said:
I agree with leaving as much as possible to the cuemaker which is part of my concern in sweating so many of the details. I WANT the cuemaker to be the biggest contributor to the way that the cue is built and how it plays.

I just have to balance that against getting something that meets my needs as well. I guess I am looking for input on getting the specs right as much as how many I, as the end-user, should be considering when planning the cue.
Click to expand...

The key here is knowing what you like in a cue before asking a maker to build one for you. They cannot know if you do not. You should know what you like not only in wood selection, but weight, balance point, joint type, pin size, shaft taper, ferrule material and length, and lastly the tip. Some makers only do one or two types of joints...because they have found them to be ideal for how they wish their cues to perform. Others are open to doing all types of joints. Same goes for other aspects of building a cue.

There is a certain amount of 'homework' that you as the consumer should do, concerning makers.....type of cues built, delivery times, cost, and pay close attention to any who have repeatedly had 'issues'. There are lots of fine makers out there who would love to build a cue for you...they may not be the cue maker du juor...but won't leave you with a headache either.
 
cue makers

what is you budget?
i would find a tall cue maker and start with them.
richard chuddy is tall he might be your best starting place .
jim baxter makes extra long cues.


then you need a tall cue case maker lol best of luck

MMike
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
what is you budget?
i would find a tall cue maker and start with them.
richard chuddy is tall he might be your best starting place .
jim baxter makes extra long cues.


then you need a tall cue case maker lol best of luck

MMike
Click to expand...

Budget isn't really an issue. I have between 3-5K estimated but wouldn't have an issue going for more if that is what it takes to get what I want.

That is a good idea regarding contacting tall cuemakers but then I've not played with their cues and so there is the concern of not knowing what I am ordering until I get it which is something I would like to minimize as I don't have a lot of opportunity to make it to a cue show to try things out being that I am in FL and everything seems to go on up north or out west.

Event organizers need to opt for the nice tropical weather and have some big events down here!
 
With your budget you should have no trouble getting what you want and getting it stupid fancy as well. There are a lot of cuemakers in Florida some very well regarded. Perhaps you should meet and interview a few of them to get their opinions on what would suit you and test out their work.
 
angldemn said:
With your budget you should have no trouble getting what you want and getting it stupid fancy as well. There are a lot of cuemakers in Florida some very well regarded. Perhaps you should meet and interview a few of them to get their opinions on what would suit you and test out their work.
Click to expand...

That is a good idea. I know that Sigel and Perry are here in FL. I may try to contact them to see what I am looking at. I'd just hate to waste their time to test things out if I didn't end up ordering from them. Isn't Sigel done making cues though? I thought I had heard that somewhere.

Searing is down here as well but if what I hear about the wait time for those is true then I am not so sure about going that route..
 
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