Murray Tucker said:Not a taper bar but a stupid computer. You would think the computer would be smart enough to know that I wanted to take a .025 cut and not a .25 cut for the wrap groove.
You're right. It should know better.
Murray Tucker said:Not a taper bar but a stupid computer. You would think the computer would be smart enough to know that I wanted to take a .025 cut and not a .25 cut for the wrap groove.
It should know too that you're 3-wing cutter needs tool-offset when it gets to X12.25.:thumbup:Murray Tucker said:Not a taper bar but a stupid computer. You would think the computer would be smart enough to know that I wanted to take a .025 cut and not a .25 cut for the wrap groove.
rhncue said:I don't think I would ever consider doing any single point work on the handle between centers. Not many cues run dead nuts perfect over 30 inch plus the single point is almost sure to chatter. I always chuck up within an inch of the end of the handle that I'm working on and then reverse the cue to work on the other end.
By the way, Mike Webb's solution of building up with veneer is probably the best as when finished you once again have a solid wood handle.
Dick
Poulos Cues said:Dick,
This is probably the reason I bugged up the groove in the first place!
I have since then changed my process.![]()
Now if we could only discuss the "chewed up" threaded ferrule tenon (again- before I started "live tooling" them) He is getting one heck of a refurb. New wrap groove & wrap, new ferrule tenon, and a new finish!
He wants me to sign the cue... I would feel much better doing that today~ but should I? I would think it to be okay since I am the original builder.
Should I mark it 0001?
What our some opinions out there on this?
~Chris