Huebler Experts Needed ---> Custom Shop Values

stomper

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Just like the titles states, what are the thoughts on values of this cue. Cue is new never chalked.

And yes the stain on the shaft was intentional and the cue shafts hage never been used or chalked.

Ivory Butt Cap, Joint, Ferrules and dot inlays.


Thanks in advance, Shane
 

Attachments

  • 20260803_155210.jpg
    20260803_155210.jpg
    154.2 KB · Views: 100
  • 20260803_155029.jpg
    20260803_155029.jpg
    161.1 KB · Views: 98
  • 20260803_155021.jpg
    20260803_155021.jpg
    193.4 KB · Views: 98
  • 20260803_155004.jpg
    20260803_155004.jpg
    133.8 KB · Views: 97
  • 20260803_154948.jpg
    20260803_154948.jpg
    133.8 KB · Views: 100
  • 20260803_154938.jpg
    20260803_154938.jpg
    133.8 KB · Views: 96
  • 20260801_182644.jpg
    20260801_182644.jpg
    87.1 KB · Views: 97
The ivory joint is stained - why? Value in terms of a quick sale - within 30 days - I doubt people would pay over $1200 for this cue - it would almost have to be a Huebler collector- just my opinion.
I like Huebler cues and have owned a few - but paying more than a $1,000 for one really starts to limit the market to very few out there as buyers.
I think the asking price should be $1500 and see what offers arise.
 
The ivory joint is stained - why? Value in terms of a quick sale - within 30 days - I doubt people would pay over $1200 for this cue - it would almost have to be a Huebler collector- just my opinion.
I like Huebler cues and have owned a few - but paying more than a $1,000 for one really starts to limit the market to very few out there as buyers.
I think the asking price should be $1500 and see what offers arise.
So custom shop cues are a different beast then standard production Hueblers.

I've seen some of the very desirable models routinely sell in the $2200 to 3k range in the Huebler Fan FB group.

Saw one very rare and complicated custom shop cue go for 6K at the ICCS show in Chattanooga last year.
 
So custom shop cues are a different beast then standard production Hueblers.

I've seen some of the very desirable models routinely sell in the $2200 to 3k range in the Huebler Fan FB group.

Saw one very rare and complicated custom shop cue go for 6K at the ICCS show in Chattanooga last year.
This cue is not in that category
 
No Shit...

Hence the $1300 to $1500 valuation.
We agreed prior so why your reply to mine with some “Huebler education” ?

Knock it off - we all know that there are degrees of custom shop cues and we all agree that this is not a super high end production builder cue. Plus the cue has badly stained ivory joint that will require a new ivory joint - $300+ repair- the cue has no points either - low end of custom shop - the unplayed shafts are the only thing that gets this cue to even $1,000 sale price IMO.

To the owner: The stain on an ivory joint is not intentional - it is a flaw in the cue !
 
We agreed prior so why your reply to mine with some “Huebler education” ?

Knock it off - we all know that there are degrees of custom shop cues and we all agree that this is not a super high end production builder cue. Plus the cue has badly stained ivory joint that will require a new ivory joint - $300+ repair- the cue has no points either - low end of custom shop - the unplayed shafts are the only thing that gets this cue to even $1,000 sale price IMO.

To the owner: The stain on an ivory joint is not intentional - it is a flaw in the cue !
You probably need to knock it off as well. Reread my post the stain on the shaft not the stain on the ivory. And 100% a stain on ivory joint doesn't require a new joint. Where in the world did you get that from.
This forum sometimes geez.
 
100% ivory
BULLSHIT!!!!!
At the very least the lettering and date in the butt piece gives it away. The ferrules are too bright to be ivory and to think that the inlays would be ivory is uh well I have a house to sell you if you think they are ivory.
a simple test for ivory is a hot needle poke the butt piece adjacent the letters and it will melt the plastic.
 
In or around 84 I had Huebler make a custom for my wife. It was very light 16 Oz. And the pro tapered shaft came to 12 mm tip as she has small hands. It had points and even put her initials in the butt. A beautiful cue that suited her nicely. She still has the receipt and tells me it cost $189.00
 
BULLSHIT!!!!!
At the very least the lettering and date in the butt piece gives it away. The ferrules are too bright to be ivory and to think that the inlays would be ivory is uh well I have a house to sell you if you think they are ivory.
a simple test for ivory is a hot needle poke the butt piece adjacent the letters and it will melt the plastic.
Greg i stand corrected. The butt cap is not ivory. The joint and the Ferrules are. I tested all of them with the hot needle.
 
Everyone has their opinion and often, it is supported by years of cue buying, selling and collecting.
I’m a proponent of using ivory in cues as long as it’s pre-ban. IMO, the joint doesn’t look like ivory.
Lol literally just tested 110% ivory.
 
You probably need to knock it off as well. Reread my post the stain on the shaft not the stain on the ivory. And 100% a stain on ivory joint doesn't require a new joint. Where in the world did you get that from.
This forum sometimes geez.
Your photo clearly shows a stain on what you claim is an ivory joint. Ivory is a porous natural material and a stain would be absorbed into the material. The ivory would need to be sanded down to where the absorption ends - no telling how deep . Then you would need to polish the ivory and re match the shafts . Most cue makers would just say to replace the joint as a chemical wash most probably cannot remove an ivory absorbed stain and sanding and polishing could be a waste of time.

If that’s not a stain on your joint in the photo then why is it there and what is it?
 
Your photo clearly shows a stain on what you claim is an ivory joint. Ivory is a porous natural material and a stain would be absorbed into the material. The ivory would need to be sanded down to where the absorption ends - no telling how deep . Then you would need to polish the ivory and re match the shafts . Most cue makers would just say to replace the joint as a chemical wash most probably cannot remove an ivory absorbed stain and sanding and polishing could be a waste of time.

If that’s not a stain on your joint in the photo then why is it there and what is it?
Mike reading clearly is paramount.
Your confusing what i stated in my first post.
Let me help you.

MY POST
"And yes the stain on the shaft was intentional and the cue shafts have never been used or chalked"

Where in that statement does it talk about the joint material whatsoever or even ivory for that matter.

Further more with regard to the joint maybe you missed the part where I say I tested it with a hot needle.
To ensure I am believed what do I need to do post a video showing me do it?

Now on to talk about the actual statement your making about the Ivory joint I am "Claiming" nice choice of words by the way.
In no world does it change the structural integrity of the joint. If your not clear on this Google is a great place to start.
And clearly not to you but discoloration does also not mean it needs replaced from an aesthetic purpose. I love grain in ivory and the differences in color that ivory is known for.

So now you know 2 things hopefully if you were able to "read" this carefully this time.
First I never mentioned "intentional stained ivory" hopefully that's beyond clear now.
And second your opinion which once again we all know about opinions because everyone has one but a fair amout of the time are not fact.
In no way shape or form does this "ivory" joint (and yes Mike if you really need the video of me testing it i will post one) need replaced due to color discoloration.

And to everyone who had to read this sorry but the whole i know everything but didn't even read correctly what I am arguing and oh yeah I am not even accurate gets really old so I apologize to all of you.
 
Mike reading clearly is paramount.
Your confusing what i stated in my first post.
Let me help you.

MY POST
"And yes the stain on the shaft was intentional and the cue shafts have never been used or chalked"

Where in that statement does it talk about the joint material whatsoever or even ivory for that matter.

Further more with regard to the joint maybe you missed the part where I say I tested it with a hot needle.
To ensure I am believed what do I need to do post a video showing me do it?

Now on to talk about the actual statement your making about the Ivory joint I am "Claiming" nice choice of words by the way.
In no world does it change the structural integrity of the joint. If your not clear on this Google is a great place to start.
And clearly not to you but discoloration does also not mean it needs replaced from an aesthetic purpose. I love grain in ivory and the differences in color that ivory is known for.

So now you know 2 things hopefully if you were able to "read" this carefully this time.
First I never mentioned "intentional stained ivory" hopefully that's beyond clear now.
And second your opinion which once again we all know about opinions because everyone has one but a fair amout of the time are not fact.
In no way shape or form does this "ivory" joint (and yes Mike if you really need the video of me testing it i will post one) need replaced due to color discoloration.

And to everyone who had to read this sorry but the whole i know everything but didn't even read correctly what I am arguing and oh yeah I am not even accurate gets really old so I apologize to all of you.
Man nobody wants a stained ivory joint. so it is ivory- great/ but it is Cleary stained- that is a major issue for anyone serious about buying this cue- of course it does not affect play- but a custom shop cue - which you state is new- should NEVER have a stained ivory joint- that is all that I am saying. fixing this issue would most likely involve a new installation of a new ivory joint and refacing both shafts to match the new joint - $300+ and that is probably a low number today. You asked for opinions- I gave one- not liking other's opinions is one thing- going on and on about opinions that you requested is just ridiculous- next time don't ask or please just block me. Thanks- the end for me!
 
Man nobody wants a stained ivory joint. so it is ivory- great/ but it is Cleary stained- that is a major issue for anyone serious about buying this cue- of course it does not affect play- but a custom shop cue - which you state is new- should NEVER have a stained ivory joint- that is all that I am saying. fixing this issue would most likely involve a new installation of a new ivory joint and refacing both shafts to match the new joint - $300+ and that is probably a low number today. You asked for opinions- I gave one- not liking other's opinions is one thing- going on and on about opinions that you requested is just ridiculous- next time don't ask or please just block me. Thanks- the end for me!
Well don't come off a certain way and your opinion would be more palatable not just to me clearly another in this thread as well for god sake your telling people to "Knock it off" in your post. Just makes me wonder when someone says that shit who the F$5K do they think they are?
Oh yeah and maybe when you realize you and i were talking about 2 different things just own it and maybe realize that adds to the response you get initially when your talking about something you read wrong. And i am super glad you speak for everyone. I will make sure to put a disclaimer on my listing when i sale it "If you are one of the very few people in the world according to Mike that are okay with stained ivory" this cue if for you.

No need to block you just stay away from MY posts and there you go.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top