Bottom right picture.Anyone have a detailed picture of this machining artifact?
Thank you, I have seen that picture but hard to tell what I am looking at either so much dirt in there.
It is a bit hard to see, but there is a groove that is below the portion in which the insert and bolt would go. That's where the residue would built up. I don't think generally dirt, but rather residue from the KU bumper.Thank you, I have seen that picture but hard to tell what I am looking at either so much dirt in there.
It looks like the same exact toolmarks, it is probably more of a difference in how I photographed it. I didn't think about how am I going to do a side by side photo. Anyway, these are delicate bumpers so I guess better to not keep taking them apart. I understand why there is masking tape on them. I can imagine when brand new, it was harder to install them.I see what you mean about the bumper on the fancy one. Could use a replacement. If you can't find a KU bumper, I believe most cuemakers and cue repairmen have access to new brown bumpers, which are not a bad replacement.
On the fancy one, I do see the groove on the outer edge of the interior surface. This looks like the more typical Balabushka construction. The Lisciotti one does look different, more like a modern cuemaker would do it, with a standard 3/8X16 weight bolt. At least that's what I see. It would be interesting to know if that was a modification later on, or something else. Both great looking cues.
There are NOS originals around.If you can't find a KU bumper, I believe most cuemakers and cue repairmen have access to new brown bumpers, which are not a bad replacement.
Yes, I agree, better to have an original KU bumper for an original Balabushka, if it needs it. I've heard stories of some with some KU bumpers wanting outrageous money for them, but yeah, there are still some out there. Same goes for an early Joss. They used mostly KU bumpers from the beginning until about mid 1976 or so.There are NOS originals around.
I have some.
I traded a full box and a tooled Engles case a few years back for a nice original first catalog Palmer.
Colored bumpers for early McDermott cues are a lot harder to find.
I have spools of #9 too. No, not for sale.
Materials are still around. Some that have them will even deny having them, yes even cue makers.
IMHO such cues should have a KU, not a modern replacement.
These both are Superb cues!I am sure those who really know will know just by looking at them.
In ancient Japan, early sword makers did not sign their works. It seems
that idea that those who know would recognize the master who created
the work. To sign a work meant that the sword was not outstanding enough
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These both are Superb cues!
I would be very happy owning and playing with the cue on the right...
I Like the layout, and veneers... black, mahogany, Light blue, Natural
thanks for the post!
The cue with just 2 MOP dots Below a slotted MOP diamond , in the points...I am not sure which one is the one you are referring to. Neither one has blue color in it. The Liscotti one is the better cue in my opinion not just because of the history but because the joint is a non-standard size and the wood has changed color to a honey blond color. The feel and playability is slightly better. There is no mistake that the shafts match the butt of the cue due to the special size.
It is actually dark green , not light blue. The wood is old growth and likely from more than 100 year old trees. Very dense wood. Amazing it is dead straight on a 1965 shaft and butt. Spinning the cue shows no warping.The cue with just 2 MOP dots Below a slotted MOP diamond , in the points...
To me, the veneers appear, black, mahogany, light blue, white...maybe the 3rd veneer is gray in color....
The cue is awesome ,I like the honey colored wood in the cue shafts too, typically will have a really nice hit and feel with shaft wood like those 2 shafts