I got a rattle.

manwon said:
I like KJ's idea and he certainly has more experience than me, but I do not have the tooling that he has so this is how I would do it.

I would cut the handle below Pin and heat and turn the old A-joint pin out.

Then I would turn the remainder of the old Tenon down to .623 / 5/8 in diameter. Then I would sleeve the tenon with a piece of .900 OD by .623 ID Phenolic Joint material. Once the adhesive dries from the application of the sleeve to the tenon, I would re-tap the the tenon for the new screw to clean the threads of any old adhesive "note I would use a different thread pitch that is over sized for the new screw if possible"

I would then bore my hole in the new handle for a tight fitting .750 or 3/4, then I would bore and tap a hole for the new pin in the handle. Next I would turn the Phenolic Sleeve on the tenon from .900 OD to .750 OD so that the tenon will fit into the new handle.

I have been doing it this way for awhile when I build cues with an A-Joint and it has worked very well, so I also started doing handle replacements this way. In my opinion it gives you built in Buzz protection for the tenon along with a stronger less flexible A-joint. Using this method you can still add a buzz ring if you want or other deco rings at this location. I got the idea from Burton Spain's Book on Point Blanks, and all I do know for certain is that it works.

You can also use the following method which is similar to the above method.

In this method you use a 1 inch piece of joint material and you first bore your hole in the new handle that is .750 diameter, then bore a hole in the new handle for the pin from the forearm tenon. Then you turn the piece of joint material down to the length and depth of the hole bored in the handle. Now since the joint material being used is 1 inch in diameter it should be approximately the same diameter as the forearm at the A-Joint. This allow for a one to two section of the handle that is covered by a wrap, I also have used this method while doing repairs or when build a cue with an A-joint it also will work just fine.

Hope this helps
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This is ask the cuemaker section.
Not Ask The Spoonfeeder. :eek::D
 
I have no problems helping someone out as long as they have tried, at least once, and failed. We are not helping anyone by giving up all the answers. Trial and error is the most effective way to learn. Its not always the fastest or cheapest, but it is the most effective.


That being said, I have never used a buzz ring and have never had any problems. If I have a buzz, it always my fault, usually . In the OP's case, I believe it is the 5 minute epoxy. Cut the handle off, pull/mill the pin and start over. Do it the safest way can. Safe for you and safe for the parts you want to salvage.


<~~~I love torches!
 
That being said, I have never used a buzz ring and have never had any problems. If I have a buzz, it always my fault, usually . In the OP's case, I believe it is the 5 minute epoxy. Cut the handle off, pull/mill the pin and start over. Do it the safest way can. Safe for you and safe for the parts you want to salvage.

I don't believe in it either.
End grains can be prepped .
In this case, he had a RATTLE.
The metal stud is ratteling inside imo.
Epoxy failure was the culprit imho.
 
Again.....

qbilder said:
Exactly. I'm a cuemaker. Steve Klein is a cuemaker, respected member of ACA, been building world class cues for over a decade. Who the heck are you? Why are you chiming in at all, let alone to dispute the words of or chastise an actual cuemaker over the things he says? After all, the name of the forum is "Ask The Cuemaker"......duh!

Your post is exactly the kind of reasons the knowledgeable & veteran builders are fast fading from AZ. They simply quit coming around or offering the actual worthwhile advice. It's not worth the trouble for them. There's your decaf.
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Thanks to all the cuemakers who DO offer helpful advice to those of us who are not worthy:p
 
Wiping the cocobolo with acetone to help remove some oils was mentioned, what about the connecting pin? Are you sure that was cleaned? No chance it was on the oily side when glued up?

Kelly
 
Well I can say this, the guy tried, had a problem and is asking what to do about it. If he hadn't tried and was just "brain picking" before the fact then my answers would have been a little more pointed.

I suggest you get some West System epoxy for the A-joint and other gluing tasks. 5 minute epoxy is for ferrules that someone needs the same day or in an hour or so. The west system will get into the pores of the wood and give a much stronger bond. Make sure you face off the handle and forearm perfectly and you can coat the end grain and let it sit for 5 mins before you join them. Make sure that when you glue up your connecting pin you let that dry completely, or you run the risk of the pin moveing when you connect the a-joint together and that can cause a buzz.
 
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