I re-designed a G-Core Shaft

[DieselDevilDawg]

So my good neighbor gave me his McDermott Cue with a G-Core shaft. I really didn't care for the "lightness" of the shaft. He does not play anymore due to his health....so........
What I did to the G-core shaft he gave me...I cut the end of the tip off (all by hand, I do not own a lathe)....drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the shaft and inserted a 1/4 inch steel rod about 5 inches long, then glued the tip back on....then I drilled another 1/4 hole on the joint end of the shaft and inserted another 1/4 inch steel rod...I know you guys are professional so.......I hand sanded a 20 inch pro taper and drilled a 1/8 inch piece of aluminum with a .482 hole in it and used it as a shaft scraper........so I'm going to be checking it out next week. Don't laugh too much...it's homemade. I'm already looking at some good maple shafts (LD)

 

[Patrick Johnson]

...drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the shaft and inserted a 1/4 inch steel rod about 5 inches long, then glued the tip back on....

Hope you like squirt.

pj
chgo

 

[jimmyco]

I bet it hits a ton.

 

[buckshotshoey]

I predict you won't be happy.

 

[336Robin]

So my good neighbor gave me his McDermott Cue with a G-Core shaft. I really didn't care for the "lightness" of the shaft. He does not play anymore due to his health....so........
What I did to the G-core shaft he gave me...I cut the end of the tip off (all by hand, I do not own a lathe)....drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the shaft and inserted a 1/4 inch steel rod about 5 inches long, then glued the tip back on....then I drilled another 1/4 hole on the joint end of the shaft and inserted another 1/4 inch steel rod...I know you guys are professional so.......I hand sanded a 20 inch pro taper and drilled a 1/8 inch piece of aluminum with a .482 hole in it and used it as a shaft scraper........so I'm going to be checking it out next week. Don't laugh too much...it's homemade. I'm already looking at some good maple shafts (LD)

You added weight near the tip. That shaft will now deflect/squirt balls probably 10x more that it would have if you hadn't modified it.

 

[Quesports]

I had the same dislike of weight with an I shaft. Weighed just 3.1 ounces. So I drilled through the nylon insert at the joint and bought an oak dowel longer than the shaft that fit inside the I shaft.

Then I got kids play clay and weighed out an ounce of it which I packed into the I shaft. Filled it almost perfectly to the insert level. Sealed it with epoxy and it was fine afterwards. Balance was improved and the shaft played great afterwards. A guy in league bought it from me and loved it.

I did tell him what I had done voided any warrantee McDermott had on them.

 

[336Robin]

I had the same dislike of weight with an I shaft. Weighed just 3.1 ounces. So I drilled through the nylon insert at the joint and bought an oak dowel longer than the shaft that fit inside the I shaft.

Then I got kids play clay and weighed out an ounce of it which I packed into the I shaft. Filled it almost perfectly to the insert level. Sealed it with epoxy and it was fine afterwards. Balance was improved and the shaft played great afterwards. A guy in league bought it from me and loved it.

I did tell him what I had done voided any warrantee McDermott had on them.

I hit with a G core years ago and the hit was kinda funny.
I currently play with a keel wood shaft, 30 inches weighs 3.2 oz and it plays great.

 

[hang-the-9]

So my good neighbor gave me his McDermott Cue with a G-Core shaft. I really didn't care for the "lightness" of the shaft. He does not play anymore due to his health....so........
What I did to the G-core shaft he gave me...I cut the end of the tip off (all by hand, I do not own a lathe)....drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the shaft and inserted a 1/4 inch steel rod about 5 inches long, then glued the tip back on....then I drilled another 1/4 hole on the joint end of the shaft and inserted another 1/4 inch steel rod...I know you guys are professional so.......I hand sanded a 20 inch pro taper and drilled a 1/8 inch piece of aluminum with a .482 hole in it and used it as a shaft scraper........so I'm going to be checking it out next week. Don't laugh too much...it's homemade. I'm already looking at some good maple shafts (LD)

The way to add weight to a shaft is through the joint area, not the tip area. What you did would add a bunch of extra deflection/squirt to the cue.
1/4 inch 5 inch steel rod would make the thing crazy heavy. A local cuemaker that I use just adds a small screw to the shaft to make the weight better when he builds keilwood shafts since the roasting procedure takes out some weight from the shaft.

 

[DieselDevilDawg]

The way to add weight to a shaft is through the joint area, not the tip area. What you did would add a bunch of extra deflection/squirt to the cue.
1/4 inch 5 inch steel rod would make the thing crazy heavy. A local cuemaker that I use just adds a small screw to the shaft to make the weight better when he builds keilwood shafts since the roasting procedure takes out some weight from the shaft.

Thanks for that info....I know, I just ruined a good decent shaft........

 

[DieselDevilDawg]

I hit with a G core years ago and the hit was kinda funny.
I currently play with a keel wood shaft, 30 inches weighs 3.2 oz and it plays great.

Found out by McDermott, the G-core shaft weighs in at 3.5 oz. Mine now weighs in at 5.5 oz.

 

[MitchAlsup]

Mine now weighs in at 5.5 oz.

Why would you want a shaft that heavy ??

 

[DieselDevilDawg]

Why would you want a shaft that heavy ??

I was trying to make the shaft heavier due to the weight of the Butt end. I wound up removing the botton screw in weight all together. It really plays nice except for the "turning down" I did to the shaft to make a 20 inch taper....I don't have a lathe so it's not real even....oh well, live and learn.

 

[Zerksies]

Cue balance is now way off.

 

[nataddrho]

You made a great fool’s cue to let your uneducated opponents use.

 

[hang-the-9]

Thanks for that info....I know, I just ruined a good decent shaft........

The key is to get the info on how to do it properly before doing the work not after
I don't know how often I see posts (about anything not just pool equipment) like "I just ordered product XYZ but now I am thinking I bought the wrong thing or paid too much" or "This part came in but it seems like it's the wrong one", where they should have asked what to get before purchasing the thing in the first place, not try to figure out the issue after the fact.

 

[muskyed]

You can sand down a shaft on a lathe fairly easily. Set a piece of cardboard behind the shaft and right down your before measurements every 2" or so of the area you would like to reduce, probably in the 16" range, then with strips of non loading sand paper about 2" wide start a progressive amount more at the tip to almost nothing 16" back or what ever result you are trying to achieve. I've started briefly at 180, then 220 to 1200. Then to even out any uneven spots, take a small 3" piece of wood block with some 1/8" craft foam glued to it and use that with your sand paper before changing grits ea time.
You can get an almost perfect result if you take your time, know what you want, don't apply too much pressure sanding, and measure often.
On another note, your shaft you already worked on may make a great break shaft with the right tip as long as your glue job holds.

 

[DieselDevilDawg]

You made a great fool’s cue to let your uneducated opponents use.

I like that, it's a very good point.

 

[DieselDevilDawg]

You can sand down a shaft on a lathe fairly easily. Set a piece of cardboard behind the shaft and right down your before measurements every 2" or so of the are you would like to reduce, probably in the 16" range, then with strips of non loading sand paper about 2" wide start a progressive amount more at the tip to almost nothing 16" back or what ever result you are trying to achieve. I've started briefly at 180, then 220 to 1200. Then to even out any uneven spots, take a small 3" piece of wood block with some 1/8" craft foam glued to it and use that with your sand paper before changing grits ea time.
You can get an almost perfect result if you take your time, know what you want, don't apply too much pressure sanding, and measure often.
On another note, your shaft you already worked on may make a great break shaft with the right tip as Ling as your glue job holds.

I'll use it for a break shaft. Hits like a rock.

 

[DieselDevilDawg]

I went to the Billiard Hall today for 3 hrs. I cannot believe how this Frankenstein shoots. I was hitting balls way longer than my actual safe zone. I'm pretty old and this thing is amazing. I guess the heavy shaft really helps keep the stick in the good portion of my hand. The shaft tip does not move right to left anymore and although my stroke is not smooth, this thing really works great. I ran 2 racks, playing by myself and I haven't done that in 40 years. I know it's hard to believe but with my 5.5 oz shaft both in the joint and on the pin this thing really shoots pretty good.

 

[Cuedup]

It's the arrow?

I KNEW IT!