If the buyer were to supply the forearm wood....

[Impact Blue]

Two questions:

1. What would the minimum size requirement for wood, if I were to supply it for a forearm and butt for a cuemaker?
   
2. Should I expect the maker to be totally offended by even suggesting it? I'd imagine it could lower the cost and time of assembly, plus I'd be able to choose the contrast of the grains.

Thank you in advance guys!

 

[JBCustomCues]

Two questions:

1. What would the minimum size requirement for wood, if I were to supply it for a forearm and butt for a cuemaker?
2. Should I expect the maker to be totally offended by even suggesting it? I'd imagine it could lower the cost and time of assembly, plus I'd be able to choose the contrast of the grains.

Thank you in advance guys!

1.5x1.5x18 would be the minimum size that I'd request.. As for lowering the cost to me your only lowering it the cost of the lumber and for the time it could actualy extend it because the moisture content of the wood..

 

[Impact Blue]

1.5x1.5x18 would be the minimum size that I'd request.. As for lowering the cost to me your only lowering it the cost of the lumber and for the time it could actualy extend it because the moisture content of the wood..

Rep for you sir, thank you.

Is supplying the wood something you would strongly suggest NOT to do? and stress relieving the wood is probably a factor as well.?

 

[Michael Webb]

Two questions:

1. What would the minimum size requirement for wood, if I were to supply it for a forearm and butt for a cue maker?
   
2. Should I expect the maker to be totally offended by even suggesting it? I'd imagine it could lower the cost and time of assembly, plus I'd be able to choose the contrast of the grains.

Thank you in advance guys!

Some Cue makers may be offended and some will not, It will not save you any time at all, saving you money depends on the maker and what you expect him to do with it versus what kind of wood it is. Depending on the maker it will also have to be cored if that's the way he constructs his cues and you will be responsible for everything that happens to the wood also, Some of us will not even use a piece of wood cored by someone else, That in itself is a major what if, (use your imagination.) Funny guide lines but it is what it is.
As far as size, 1 1/4 for the forearm and 1 1/2 for everything below the forearm. If you want the grain in the butt to match the forearm, 1 1/2 by how ever long your Cue maker needs to make it work for you. Don't know if I helped or not but it's an answer.

 

[masonh]

like Mike said it will not save any time,and might add time actually.as far as saving money it will be minimal if any.maybe $50 tops,but i would imagine most wouldn't discount it at all.

1.5x1.5x18 is about right too.you can get away with smaller,but having the extra never hurts.

 

[Sheldon]

This has been discussed a couple of times in this forum. There are a few that refuse to use customer supplied wood, but I think most are pretty flexible. If someone's actually offended, I would (as a customer) reconsider doing business with that person.
It may offend if you demand a lower price.... but the people that have supplied wood to me have never expected that. They supply it because the wood has some special meaning to them.....

 

[Cue Crazy]

Yeah I agree, and think expecting a lower price may would offend more then the act of asking to use Your own wood in a cue. Also with supplying Your own wood, I would actually expect the build time to take longer, possibly even much longer than a material a maker has had in shop curing, and already being turned at intervals that are specific to, or preferred by the maker in question.

If willing to wait however long It takes, and not expecting a big price reduction, if any at all, then I see no reason for not asking to use a wood that's special to You, as that alone should not offend IMO, but at the same time, don't be offended if They kindly decline. Under the right circumstances some may take It on, but others may have Their own, and maybe even very legitimate reasons for not doing It at all. It just depends on the maker as some mentioned already.

Greg

 

[Rangercap]

I bought a few Curly Koa turning squares the last time I was in Hawaii. I sent one off to be made into a cue. The maker had no problem taking the wood, and ran the throught the typical steps to determine how stable it was. It was oversized, about 2"x2"x20". He cut it down to 1.5"x1.5" which left some nice slabs for inlays.

Brian
www.nittanyleather.com

 

[Arnot Wadsworth]

Two questions:

1. What would the minimum size requirement for wood, if I were to supply it for a forearm and butt for a cuemaker?
   
2. Should I expect the maker to be totally offended by even suggesting it? I'd imagine it could lower the cost and time of assembly, plus I'd be able to choose the contrast of the grains.

Thank you in advance guys!

I would need a piece of wood 1 3/8 x 1 3/8 x 16, minimum. I would prefer something a little larger.

I would have no problem with a customer furnishing his own wood. However, depending on the kind of wood, in all probability I have a nicer piece in my inventory that is well seasoned.

Once I remade a cue that had been owned by my customer's father and we redid it into a new cue for the sentamental value.

Good Cuemaking,

 

[Chris Byrne]

I will use customers wood if it is a special piece, otherwise I prefer to use my own as I know the age and have worked it down over several years so it will be ready to go. I will not use wood cored by someone else. I have a very specific method I use that took alot of trial and error to acomplish. I doubt anyone in the buisness of selling parts would put the care and precision into making them that I do. I would assume they slap them together a hundred at a time with looser tolerances. I could be wrong but I will not take the chance.
As for time, customers wood will take longer than my own. I suscribe to the theory of stocking wood for several years and making small passes over time before the wood even makes it into the rotation for building. Do I think some woods could be worked faster, sure. But, I believe cue building should not be rushed. Nothing good can come from rushing wood to it's final shape.
Cost. Unless you are accounting for highly figured woods, burls, wildwood ect.. the actual cost of the wood is a minimal in figuring the cost of a cue.
I think many cuemakers would use customer supplied wood if you were really serious about using it but, I also think most would really prefer to use their own. Chris.

 

[cuebuilder]

I prefer to use my own wood since I know how long I've had it and am 100% aware of the moisture content, but I will use supplied wood in some cases. There are some things that must be agreed upon before I start such a project. drying time and checking and cracking are big ones.
I have, in fact, just started such a project. A woman from the big island of Hawaii just sent me 2 pieces of the most beautiful curly Koa I've ever seen to biuld a cue for her father. She and her husband farm Koa there. I requested 2 pieces in case 1 was not usuable or cracked or split after it is dry. She sent 2 pieces 1 1/2" square by 24 inches long. This will give me plenty for the project.
This will not reduce the cost of the cue much, if any. Payment for this cue will be with more of the curly Koa instead of cash. I like the barter system.