if you want to develop a straight stroke DONT use an ld shaft

I feel ld shafts are more for the beginner. For someone who doesn't know about BHE and FHE then learning to play side with a cue that deflects the cue ball the least will lessen the learning curve. That said, as PJ said you have more chance of having a natural bridge length closer to a regular squirt shafts pivot point. But, a poorly hit shot is a poorly hit shot and no matter what, you wont get the intended result you were looking for. Too many people buy LD shafts thinking it will give them more margin for error and the fact is they should be looking to increase their margin for error with increasing their consistency of delivery.

Nailed it :-)

LD is no holy gral- and of course no bad thing at all. But how you said- too many think they can "cover" their bad technique with a low-deflection shaft :-).
 
Back in the days before message forums, the way that a person got their answer to ideas was that they had to actually test them out themselves. These days, when an idea pops into someone's head, they throw it out to the masses and poll everyone to get opinions.

Sure, there are advantages to getting others opinions, but I think it can become habit-forming to the extreme point were we stop thinking on our own.

Be careful of losing your ability to reason and figure things out. Depend on yourself more --- and others less.

TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP :-)

working something out- and finding yourself a solution is the key. This is PURE expirience- and therefrom comes true knowledge.

Love your posting Fran- hope you re doing great :-)
 
Along the lines of what Fran said for a few years I have been using and tracking scores using the AcCueshot tool, working on my stroke. I printed up a form with 25 slots showing left, center and right.

Even early on I found that I had more center hits with a solid shaft than with a L/D. I'm now running 24 or 25 for 25 on it's smallest setting with a solid shaft, vs. 22 with L/D.

So I've gone to solid shaft and that's it. But why is this happening? Any theory's.?
 
Along the lines of what Fran said for a few years I have been using and tracking scores using the AcCueshot tool, working on my stroke. I printed up a form with 25 slots showing left, center and right.

Even early on I found that I had more center hits with a solid shaft than with a L/D. I'm now running 24 or 25 for 25 on it's smallest setting with a solid shaft, vs. 22 with L/D.

So I've gone to solid shaft and that's it. But why is this happening? Any theory's.?
Here's what I said earlier in this thread about that:

...a low squirt shaft will miss by more than a regular shaft for the same cueing error.

...

The pivot point of a higher squirt shaft is closer to your bridge length, so a cueing error is closer to the autocorrection of backhand English than a lower squirt shaft. It might even be right on.
pj
chgo
 
After learning about BHE etc, I'm starting to like LD shafts less and less. However, I wish I could find more standard deflection, or slightly low deflection cues that aren't just solid maple. I really like the hit from a spliced-wood construction.Radial consistency gives me peace of mind but I don't care much for the low deflection part.
 
After learning about BHE etc, I'm starting to like LD shafts less and less. However, I wish I could find more standard deflection, or slightly low deflection cues that aren't just solid maple. I really like the hit from a spliced-wood construction.Radial consistency gives me peace of mind but I don't care much for the low deflection part.

Dominiak makes laminated, solid shafts.
 
After learning about BHE etc, I'm starting to like LD shafts less and less. However, I wish I could find more standard deflection, or slightly low deflection cues that aren't just solid maple. I really like the hit from a spliced-wood construction.Radial consistency gives me peace of mind but I don't care much for the low deflection part.
By the way, my comments about lower squirt shafts being less forgiving aren't meant to disparage lower squirt shafts. I use an ultra-low squirt shaft and wouldn't change - the cost/benefit is a no-brainer for me.

pj
chgo
 
I still struggle on longer straight in shots. Especially the longer straight in draw shot. I'm not sure if a LD cue/shaft will help but I am going to find out as I just bought one.

r/DCP
 
I still struggle on longer straight in shots. Especially the longer straight in draw shot. I'm not sure if a LD cue/shaft will help but I am going to find out as I just bought one.

r/DCP
If I was you and struggled with long draw shots then I would look into buying a cue that has an effective pivot point rather close to my natural bridge length when hit firm due to longer shots being hit firmer. There are a few articles out there that show a certain shafts pivot point for such shots but it is down to a matter of testing some out.
 
If I was you and struggled with long draw shots then I would look into buying a cue that has an effective pivot point rather close to my natural bridge length when hit firm due to longer shots being hit firmer. There are a few articles out there that show a certain shafts pivot point for such shots but it is down to a matter of testing some out.
i dont know why
but i would have thought you would have suggested to keep working on a straight stroke with good alignment rather than suggesting a shaft with a complimentary pivot point
just goes to show what i know
 
I still struggle on longer straight in shots. Especially the longer straight in draw shot. I'm not sure if a LD cue/shaft will help but I am going to find out as I just bought one.

r/DCP

Please don't take this as a disrespectful comment.
It's not the cue or the shaft, it's you.

Feet Position, Shot Alignment, Soft Eyes, Straight Stroke, Stroke Technique, confidence in what you are doing.

I hope the new shaft plays well for you.

Sincerely: SS
 
i dont know why
but i would have thought you would have suggested to keep working on a straight stroke with good alignment rather than suggesting a shaft with a complimentary pivot point
just goes to show what i know
It's all well and good telling someone to work on fixing why they are missing long draw shots but that really isn't advice now is it? Without more information from the person or video footage I cant offer advice on the situation tailored to them. So, I offered advice on what to look for in a cue and how it can help their situation. If a person wants help from me on fixing a flaw in their fundamentals I'm always happy to help but it didn't seem like the user did.
 
Please don't take this as a disrespectful comment.
It's not the cue or the shaft, it's you.

Feet Position, Shot Alignment, Soft Eyes, Straight Stroke, Stroke Technique, confidence in what you are doing.

I hope the new shaft plays well for you.

Sincerely: SS

You are probably right. I have been trying to totally relax on longer shots lately and it seems to be helping. Seems like you just need to hit them good, not tense up and pound them.

Never had a Predator Cue and it looks like a lot of people play with them, or Predator shafts. Time will tell I guess. Can always sell it on Ebay, or at least try to. Doubt I do that though cause I like the looks of this cue.

r/DCP
 
You are probably right. I have been trying to totally relax on longer shots lately and it seems to be helping. Seems like you just need to hit them good, not tense up and pound them.

Never had a Predator Cue and it looks like a lot of people play with them, or Predator shafts. Time will tell I guess. Can always sell it on Ebay, or at least try to. Doubt I do that though cause I like the looks of this cue.

r/DCP
If you play with a cue long enough, no matter how much you might dislike it at first you will learn to love it. Just give it a fair chance.
 
I still struggle on longer straight in shots. Especially the longer straight in draw shot. I'm not sure if a LD cue/shaft will help but I am going to find out as I just bought one.

r/DCP

You might want to play around with how you connect to the cue, your grip.

Fram Crimi only uses the last 3 fingers & not the thumb & index finger. I've tried it & it works well. I've tucked the last 2 fingers on top of the cue & it helps me. I also use a 'stroke slip' were I throw the cue by letting it slid through my hand & that works well too.

I my opinion, those things help to keep from 'snatching' the cue with the hand which can take it offline if the complete bodily alignment is not on line with the shot from your feet to the connection to the cue.

The LD shaft is good & using it as Pidge suggested is also good.

The bottom line is that something is causing you to not stroke well enough for a long straight shot. For the long haul, IMO you should try to find exactly what that is so you can work on making a correction.

With the exception of Ms. Crimi's grip, everything else is really just a bandaid.

Good Luck in finding YOUR fix.

Best 2 You & All,
Rick
 
It's not the cue, it's always us.

I still struggle on longer straight in shots. Especially the longer straight in draw shot. I'm not sure if a LD cue/shaft will help but I am going to find out as I just bought one.

r/DCP

Just relax, slow it down, nice smooth transition and delivery, no herky jerky quick stab type strokes.

Feel the weight of the cue and the cue ball, use the weight of the cue for the delivery needed. Let the weight of the cue do it's job.
Feel the speed, listen to the sound, the click the balls make when you hit it good.

When you hit it good you know it, remember that feel and try to duplicate it. It’s a sweet clean hit; it's poetry in motion, effortless...

Repetition is the answer; you said long stop shots and draw, which for me is full table distance. I think you should move back 4 to 6 ft and advance from there, I start beginners at 2 ft or less.

Don't throw one ball up and practice, set up 6 or 8 balls and keep swinging. The more the arm swings the quicker you find it. Your brain and muscle memory will work as much as you work.

Find your feet and your center, stay loose and relaxed, deliver smooth.
Rinse and repeat until the cows come home, after that you will hit those strokes like butter.
Of course there are all the other things like keeping the bridge hand solid etc. etc. etc. but we are not going there.

Sincerely: SS
 
Just relax, slow it down, nice smooth transition and delivery, no herky jerky quick stab type strokes.

Feel the weight of the cue and the cue ball, use the weight of the cue for the delivery needed. Let the weight of the cue do it's job.
Feel the speed, listen to the sound, the click the balls make when you hit it good.

When you hit it good you know it, remember that feel and try to duplicate it. It’s a sweet clean hit; it's poetry in motion, effortless...

Repetition is the answer; you said long stop shots and draw, which for me is full table distance. I think you should move back 4 to 6 ft and advance from there, I start beginners at 2 ft or less.

Don't throw one ball up and practice, set up 6 or 8 balls and keep swinging. The more the arm swings the quicker you find it. Your brain and muscle memory will work as much as you work.

Find your feet and your center, stay loose and relaxed, deliver smooth.
Rinse and repeat until the cows come home, after that you will hit those strokes like butter.
Of course there are all the other things like keeping the bridge hand solid etc. etc. etc. but we are not going there.

Sincerely: SS

You always have such good advise SS

Thanks for the input. :)

John
 
Are you saying that firmer shots deflect more than slow shots???


If I was you and struggled with long draw shots then I would look into buying a cue that has an effective pivot point rather close to my natural bridge length when hit firm due to longer shots being hit firmer. There are a few articles out there that show a certain shafts pivot point for such shots but it is down to a matter of testing some out.
 
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