inlay equip what to buy?

D

Dman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just trying to get a couple of opions on what i should do for inlays.

do I go with something like cuesmiths set up or keep looking for something like a gorton p1-3?

Im not having luck on local gorton and shipping one in cost as much as the mill.

Suggestions??
 
I have used the Gorton 3-U and of course the inlay machine I developed. For simple inlays I like the Cue Smith much better. For complex things like ingraving I liked the Gorton much better.
 
I have a Hightower inlay machine and it works very well. Not to mention you dont need a forklift to move it...Dave
 
Is it possible to build a pantograph and hook a dremel to it. Then develop patterns yourself? I remember we used to build cardboard pantographs with cardboard and a couple of thumbtacks. You stick a pencil in it and trace whatever you wanted. I would think with making two holes in the leader arm you should be able to trace the same pattern to cut the cue and move it to cut the inlay material. Maybe a couple of bearings and some square stock?
 
Yes you can make one

I have Chris Hightowers stand alone pantograph. I am sure I can build one if I devote the time into the project. I have a mill, and lathes, so of course it can be done. BUT, is it worth the enormous time it would take to tweek it and make a good working machine? I don't think so. Remember you are inlaying wood and other semi hard materials, you need to keep nearly zero backlash if you expect to make seamless inlays.
Any of us into cue building have basic machinist skills. We can build any machine if we wish to spend the time. But what is more important: building machines, or building cues?
Either can be a satisfying career/hobby.
 
Johnny "V" said:
Is it possible to build a pantograph and hook a dremel to it. Then develop patterns yourself? I remember we used to build cardboard pantographs with cardboard and a couple of thumbtacks. You stick a pencil in it and trace whatever you wanted. I would think with making two holes in the leader arm you should be able to trace the same pattern to cut the cue and move it to cut the inlay material. Maybe a couple of bearings and some square stock?
Click to expand...

It's possible to build anything with a few tools and time. I don't think I would consider building anything that uses a Dremel tool however as they 1. aren't powerful enough, 2. they are not accurate enough and 3. they aren't durable enough. For any kind of accuracy you need rigidity and close tolerances and you can't expect any kind of close tolerances with a Dremel.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
It's possible to build anything with a few tools and time. I don't think I would consider building anything that uses a Dremel tool however as they 1. aren't powerful enough, 2. they are not accurate enough and 3. they aren't durable enough. For any kind of accuracy you need rigidity and close tolerances and you can't expect any kind of close tolerances with a Dremel.

Dick
Click to expand...
I agree, and disagree... The Dremel out of the box definately is not accurate enough for sure. We actually disassemble the dremel router and make it very accurate before we attach it to our Inlay Machine. The power has never been an issue with the dremel we use on our Inlay Machines. The Dremel will run about 20-25k.

Jim
http://www.uniqueinc.com/inlay_machine
 
billiardbum said:
I agree, and disagree... The Dremel out of the box definately is not accurate enough for sure. We actually disassemble the dremel router and make it very accurate before we attach it to our Inlay Machine. The power has never been an issue with the dremel we use on our Inlay Machines. The Dremel will run about 20-25k.

Jim
http://www.uniqueinc.com/inlay_machine
Click to expand...
OK, what bearings do you put in there?:)
 
JoeyInCali said:
OK, what bearings do you put in there?:)
Click to expand...
Ancient Chinese Secret...
Actually the biggest issue is the fit in the plastic housing, once we fix that, then use a $8 bearing we are usually in luck :)
 
Cuesmith lathe bed and cabinet

I have a "used" Cuesmith lathe bed and cabinet available which could be used to mount up an "Inlay" machine ;).... let me know if anyone has any interest :)

Looking for $200 plus shipping
 
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Thanks for the input. This is the best site for a new guy to learn a lot from some great people, All input and suggestions are welcome. I am in the planning stages on equipment and all of you here in this forum have been very helpful

Thanks
 
krbsailing said:
I have a "used" Cuesmith lathe bed and cabinet available which could be used to mount up an "Inlay" machine ;).... let me know if anyone has any interest :)
Click to expand...

Interseted

PM sent
 
rhncue said:
It's possible to build anything with a few tools and time. I don't think I would consider building anything that uses a Dremel tool however as they 1. aren't powerful enough, 2. they are not accurate enough and 3. they aren't durable enough. For any kind of accuracy you need rigidity and close tolerances and you can't expect any kind of close tolerances with a Dremel.

Dick
Click to expand...
The Dremel is not accurate enough for a CNC machine where you want to know what your fit will be by numbers. But a Dremel that runs out a few thousandths is not a problem if you just take your time and use the right size stylus every time. By right size I do not mean one you calculated to do the job but one you test right then for precise fit. Just cut the pocket close then clean up the edge of the pocket and change decrease the size of the stylus a few thousandths at a time until the fit is right. As far as power goes I don't cut full depth in one pass and it has plenty of power. Oh how CNC has spoiled us. If it keeps on people will be using CNC turret lathes to do all rings and joint work. Will anyone still know how to use a dial caliper before it is over???? I have had cuemakers tell me they can't read a dial caliper, they must have digital.
Don't think I am kidding as some very good machinists have told me that they can't find any real machinists to work for them any more as everyone just learns to program and load CNC machines. Many can't cut threads or other simple machinist tasks. I know you can so don't take anything personal, but most of us knew how to build cues without so much automation at one time.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
cueman said:
The Dremel is not accurate enough for a CNC machine where you want to know what your fit will be by numbers. But a Dremel that runs out a few thousandths is not a problem if you just take your time and use the right size stylus every time. By right size I do not mean one you calculated to do the job but one you test right then for precise fit. Just cut the pocket close then clean up the edge of the pocket and change decrease the size of the stylus a few thousandths at a time until the fit is right. As far as power goes I don't cut full depth in one pass and it has plenty of power. Oh how CNC has spoiled us. If it keeps on people will be using CNC turret lathes to do all rings and joint work. Will anyone still know how to use a dial caliper before it is over???? I have had cuemakers tell me they can't read a dial caliper, they must have digital.
Don't think I am kidding as some very good machinists have told me that they can't find any real machinists to work for them any more as everyone just learns to program and load CNC machines. Many can't cut threads or other simple machinist tasks. I know you can so don't take anything personal, but most of us knew how to build cues without so much automation at one time.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Click to expand...

Tap, Tap
I bought a digital and wound up throwing it in the top draw, just couldn't bring myself to use it.
 
Hmmmmm. Sounds like progress and precision are dirty words around here. Nothing stands still. New tools and procedures are being developed every day. When dial indicators first made an appearance all the old machinists were aghast that anyone would use anything other than a vernier caliper. Now few people know how to use verniers. Slide rules became extinct when calculators arrived on the scene. It wasnt that long ago when panto mills were first used in cues and all your old cue makers who used chisels, knives, drills and maybe hatchets thought the industry was ruined. As far as finding good machinists, that is a problem as there are so few left as they have had to find jobs in other industries as the machine shops in America have dried up. For any machine shop to have any chance of surviving they must have CNC equipment for speed and economy. Now a shop only needs one set-up man making pretty fair money and 20 machine feeders making 10.00 an hr.

I have 10 sets of digital cal. laying around the shop. I like them because it is so easy to convert from inch to MM. I got a couple of sets a month or so ago with large numbers. Got to love them.

Sherm Adamson and Myself were partners once and CNC was one of the reasons we broke up. He liked to mess with computers and I never even knew how to turn one on. He wanted CNC and I didn't want one. We split up and he bought one and I used it a few times and then I was converted. I bought a small one, then built a large one and now have another and am building a CNC shaft/butt machine.

Just like vernier calipers and slide rules, panto mills are becoming a memory. Weight and size may be a problem but full size, used panto-mills can be had as cheaply as 500.00 now a days. No one wants them and besides, they need a CNC to make their templates.

Dick
 
Michael Webb said:
Tap, Tap
I bought a digital and wound up throwing it in the top draw, just couldn't bring myself to use it.
Click to expand...


I have one and use it, but only when I can't find my glasses!

Paul
 
Just like vernier calipers and slide rules, panto mills are becoming a memory. Weight and size may be a problem but full size, used panto-mills can be had as cheaply as 500.00 now a days. No one wants them and besides, they need a CNC to make their templates.


Tap, tap, tap. LOL
We had a member here who bought a Gorton P3 last year.
He had it for sale after a month or two. :D
 
rhncue said:
Hmmmmm. Sounds like progress and precision are dirty words around here.
Dick
Click to expand...
Progress and precision are not dirty words. But when people start using CNC to do it all, including installing joint pins, rings and so forth, we will see how many can still make a living at it. Like you said all you need is one set up man and $10 per hour feeders. My point about precision was that a Dremel using a .032" bit that cuts a .035" groove can still do tight inlay work with the right stylus. I use CNC for a couple of operations myself. I like it. But here is an example of what CNC does in some peoples minds. A guy bought one of my Deluxe lathes and an Alignrite CNC inlay/turning set up. He then wanted us to accept his International Cuemakers Association application as a Cuemaker member after about two months experience. He did not want to join as an Apprentice as our rules required with less than one years experience. His cue was inlaid nice and tight and what the Alignrite did for him in his mind was made him a master in two months. Automate a few more things and anyone with computer experience will be able to take a cue to ready for finish just about as well as anyone else with a few instructions. Automate the finish and wrap and a beginner will be able to build high end cues from scratch in a matter of days. Precision is not a dirty word. I am in favor of precision. But Craftsmanship is a nice word also.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Take a look at this and you will see what I am talking about is getting closer and closer to being available to the small shop for a price:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMkzMmEiXOk
 
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