Is it OK to place a pool table on a heated floor?
- Thread starter jamesdon
- Start date
snookered_again
Well-known member
any heat source will cause expansion and contraction but that's pretty normal for any room. the only thing I see may be an issue is if the weight near the feet were to crush something. it it electric? water maybe? Just keep in mind that if it is a slate table you probably won't want to move it without removing the cloth and at the very minimum pulling the slates away from one another , because any frame twist may cause a locating pin hole fracture. ideally you'd remove the slate of course , for any moving.
mine is about 5' from the fireplace which I haven't been using, now we are coming upon a cold snap - 10 C, or so, and I will use it. obviously this will cause even more expansion and contraction than a heated floor which should be fairly consistent.
i wondered if you might be able to avoid the leg locations? maybe you could put something else there to shim to the same level and support the weight , rather than whatever your heat source is. Just so it's not being "squished" under the tremendous weight. - you might check with the manufacturer if that is likely to be an issue?
mine is about 5' from the fireplace which I haven't been using, now we are coming upon a cold snap - 10 C, or so, and I will use it. obviously this will cause even more expansion and contraction than a heated floor which should be fairly consistent.
i wondered if you might be able to avoid the leg locations? maybe you could put something else there to shim to the same level and support the weight , rather than whatever your heat source is. Just so it's not being "squished" under the tremendous weight. - you might check with the manufacturer if that is likely to be an issue?
snookered_again
Well-known member
here is a thread that discusses pool table heaters. on some snooker tables they heat the table to keep humidity low and the table a bit warm as this affects the speed of the cloth.
In it, someone commented that the heater takes power. I just wanted to also make the point that if you are heating the room, any heat created in the room is not lost heat, because it all contributes heat energy to the room anyway.
i often see this mistake being made when comparisons are made for different lighting sources. Sure an LED saves power, but if you are running an electric heater the efficiency in terms of BTU's and KW hours is the same weather it is a light bulb producing the heat or a baseboard heater, for example. If this little obvious factor is not part of the energy savings analysis ( such as often the case when it is written on a package of LED bulbs) it creates a false sense of savings.
I pulled a lot of old fluorescent fixtures out of my house and replaced them with the more efficient LED bulbs. sure it saves power, but I also burn more gas making up those extra BTU's. ( in winter)
In summer it is a savings and the inefficient florescent may actually work against any money spend on powering AC. Then there is savings.
having a fridge in a warm kitchen area is similar, it produces a lot of heat to make the cold and in winter it's cold out anyway so we are spending to make it cold, creating heat doing it and that really paints a picture of inefficiency if you think about it.. we could simply vent cold air in to the fridge or put the fridge on the back porch so it isn't working so hard. Usually this is never done because of complexity of installation.
earlier in my own renos I put my fridge in a sort of a cubby, I was thinking I could vent it to the outside during winter, It would save a bit of energy. likewise the heat from the coils at the back could be made to exit in the summer so it isn't battling any AC. I do not know why the makers of fridges cant' see that its obviosly a pretty ineffficient system, but every one uses the same basic idea. They never seem to take the obvious into account to make fridge's more efficient.
Heated pool/billiard tables?
I understand that the high end billiards tables are heated so that they will play the same no matter what the temperature is and the humidity. So why arent the high end pool tables heated, or has anyone actually seen a heated pool table...
forums.azbilliards.com
In it, someone commented that the heater takes power. I just wanted to also make the point that if you are heating the room, any heat created in the room is not lost heat, because it all contributes heat energy to the room anyway.
i often see this mistake being made when comparisons are made for different lighting sources. Sure an LED saves power, but if you are running an electric heater the efficiency in terms of BTU's and KW hours is the same weather it is a light bulb producing the heat or a baseboard heater, for example. If this little obvious factor is not part of the energy savings analysis ( such as often the case when it is written on a package of LED bulbs) it creates a false sense of savings.
I pulled a lot of old fluorescent fixtures out of my house and replaced them with the more efficient LED bulbs. sure it saves power, but I also burn more gas making up those extra BTU's. ( in winter)
In summer it is a savings and the inefficient florescent may actually work against any money spend on powering AC. Then there is savings.
having a fridge in a warm kitchen area is similar, it produces a lot of heat to make the cold and in winter it's cold out anyway so we are spending to make it cold, creating heat doing it and that really paints a picture of inefficiency if you think about it.. we could simply vent cold air in to the fridge or put the fridge on the back porch so it isn't working so hard. Usually this is never done because of complexity of installation.
earlier in my own renos I put my fridge in a sort of a cubby, I was thinking I could vent it to the outside during winter, It would save a bit of energy. likewise the heat from the coils at the back could be made to exit in the summer so it isn't battling any AC. I do not know why the makers of fridges cant' see that its obviosly a pretty ineffficient system, but every one uses the same basic idea. They never seem to take the obvious into account to make fridge's more efficient.
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My basement has in floor heat, also heat and air conditioning ducts in the celling. Its fantastic. The floor doesn't get hot per say, but sure is nice walking around with just socks on. I normally keep it about 68, but if friends are coming over will turn it up to 70. Takes a couple hrs to change temp. The heat tubes are in the concrete. I have in floor heat in my shop also. It's even more efficient out there as I had 5 1/2" concrete poured for the floor. Even around zero deg, the boiler only comes on 2 or three times a day. In floor heat is not hot to the touch, just comfortable.
I would check with an engineer if the concrete will take the weight of the table without smashing the water lines but you could just find where the table will be and pour piers where the legs go.
Thank you all for your replies. I am happy to see that the majority of the concerns are around the weight of the table crushing the heating coils. I have looked and I think that it is safe. It would be a wire coil system, which I have setup in my basement and I love it.
I was most concerned that the temperature deltas would warp the table. I am lined up with a one piece slate Diamond, so I do not need to worry about seams cracking.
Thank you for helping me get this right! I am very excited to complete this project.
I was most concerned that the temperature deltas would warp the table. I am lined up with a one piece slate Diamond, so I do not need to worry about seams cracking.
Thank you for helping me get this right! I am very excited to complete this project.