Years ago I remember reading a comment by a cue maker stating that he likes the hit of a cue with points "of some kind" as opposed to a plain jane. Do you agree there is a difference?
Is there a difference?
- Thread starter Jason Koopman
- Start date
I've played with awesome cues that were just a single piece of oak, so no, I don't agree. It's mostly in the tip, ferrule, and shaft. You can get some significant changes in hit with the butt, but not so big as going from a Chandivert Rocky to an Elkmaster. That's my opinion.
so if i understand you correctly
the forearm and handle regardless of wood
full splice
half splice
cored or not and with what doesnt make a difference???
its the tip ,ferrule and shaft???
is the t your opinion???
I would tend to agree that points make a difference on a cue with a maple forearm. Maple has a compression strength that gives it good response. Putting points in would stiffen up the sideways bend of forearm a little without noticably changing that compression and snap back that makes maple the number one wood for cues.
Would this hold true for a cue made of other woods utilized in a forearm, such as ebony?
It might, but my guess is that you would never notice it with Ebony unless you were putting in much lighter wood points. That way it could change the hit by lightening up the forearm.
I believe everything in a cue makes a difference. I think of it in the "weakest link" mentality. If you think something doesn't matter, then do without it or use crap to make it, and you'll find out very quick how important the component is....or isn't. My belief is that if it's going to be in the cue as a structurally dependent component, then it must be as good as can be or it'll diminish the cue's quality. In the matter of points, they can & do make a difference in certain situations, where they are nothing more than ornamental in others. As for spice type, I see absolutely no difference in half splice & full splice in terms of strength, stability, or playability. Again, it all comes down to specific details. Ebony full spliced into curly hard maple will be stiff & firm, where ebony half spliced into curly hard maple with a cheap maple handle will not be as firm or stiff. Replace that cheap maple handle with ebony & even though it's half splice, it'll be just as stiff & strong as the full splice.....given that the "A" joint is done correctly & solid. Point being, when comparing splicing techniques, you must be comparing only the technique & this means utilizing the same materials or else you'll get false results. Furthermore, a curly hard maple forearm with ebony handle will be just as stiff & strong as a full splice or half splice ebony points & handle into curly maple. Think not, then try it. Otherwise, all you have is opinion. Opinion is worthless without some type of scientific method to support your beliefs.
Well said. Another way to look at it is: "the total is always the sum of the parts". Some parts may have more weight (value) than others but they
all add up to make the final product.
Thank you very much for the reply. I always wondered what methods are used to maintain the consistensy of hit from one cue to another (by the same cue maker of course) regardless if contained points of some kind or not. I asked because I really don't have much experience playing with cues without points.
Thank you very much Eric for taking the time to respond.
Jason
Thanks for the replies everyone!