Is Your Cue Right For You? Does Professional Instruction Pay Off? How Would You Know?

Bavafongoul

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Allow me to present a question about the cue you’ve chosen to play with and something that occurred this past weekend. My first cue was 19 ozs. It was a Palmer. Why 19 ozs? Because that’s what everyone told me to get when in actuality, I bet half of the players didn’t know the weight of their cue. When I had my first custom built, the joint had to be piloted 5/16x14 and Cortland Linen because George Balabushka built cues that way and I also learned along the way that joint seems indestructible. And yet today, almost all my cues are flat ivory….Hmn?

How much do you know about your pool cue aside from joint type and tip? What is the taper length, shaft diameter, weight, butt diameter, any weight bolt & how heavy, butt diameter and weight, and did you have any say in how the cue was made or did you buy it used or new but unused? Now none of the aforementioned is needed for you to be a great player. I know many can just take a cue from the pool hall rack and still run racks as if it didn’t matter in the slightest. But there are more players that would shoot better if they used their own pool cue.

I wonder how much a player can improve if he experimented with different cues and then decided what he preferred. The best way is to be able to actuall messure and track the differences and performance by quantifiable measurements which is difficult to do & time consuming. After all, how many of us are equipped or capable of objectively measuring deflection, cue ball speed, horizontal English application, etc.?

Over the weekend, my son had another golf club fitting that was separated into a 14 club fitting ( woods & hybrid, irons, wedges and putter). He still has the putter fitting to complete but on Saturday he did woods & hybrids. Now he already had club fittings because as my gift to him, instead of a custom cue being built for him at my expense or picking any one of my cues, he needed clubs.

He has only been playing about 9 months and never had a lesson but he starts a series of 7 lessons next month (1 per month). Anyway, I gifted him a complete set of clubs and we went through several fittings to decide on his needs. Equipment is not cheap I learned and there are putters that cost $600-$700. That just seems crazy since I gave him 5-6 putters and my old Ping Eye clubs to get him started. Well, boy was that a bad mismatch for his shaft needs. Since was intended to be going to be a set of clubs he could play with for the next decade or longer. I wanted to get the best.

He has the great set of clubs anyone could hope for as an amateur but how well can he use them. We already knew he can hit a golf ball far from his time on the range hitting a 5 iron 210 yards but not consistently. Saturday he had his driver checked during the 14 club fitting for woods and he needed to add a hybrid. With just one minor change to his shaft length & shaft flex point on his woods, he distance exploded.

By shortening his 3 wood, he hit one 303 yards carry and the others were 285-295 yds. During his fitting for a hybrid, he tested 6 brands and favored one that he ordered that day. It was a 21 degree hybrid, or basically a 7 wood and he clobbered it 250, 264, 280, 285 and 294 yds……..Yikes, the average tour player gets 231 yds. carry swinging 102 mph and 149 ball speed. His swing speed with the hybrid was 103.3, 105.1, 107.6, 109.9, 110.8 mp & ball speed was 148.7, 150.9, 158.6, 159.7, 159.5.

By shortening his driver shaft, changing the weight and flex in a different extra-stiff shaft, he hit a drive of……get this…..322 yards carry, 357 total yards. He already ordered new shafts for his driver and 3 wood.

Based on how he can hit the ball, I think the move is to dump his 4 wood and carry 5 wedges instead of 4 (44, 48, 52, 56 & 60 degree wedges) because he going to rely on wedges and 8-9 iron a lot. He now has 44, 50, 54, & 58 degree Volkey wedges. So dump the 4 iron, bend 3 shafts and add another Volkey wedge. He plays the new Titleist Black Vapor wedges that match his TM Shadowfall irons and his driver is a TM Shadowfall Qi4D LS Driver. This is going to be fun to watch him develop. With a driver swing of 119-122 mph, oh boy, lookout.

Back to pool…..from 1963 thru 2004, I always played with a piloted steel joint and then by accident, had opportunity to play with a Tim Scruggs flat ivory cue joint that was 2 ozs. lighter than my Runde Schon. ‘D normally not look to test play a cue that light or with that joint but it was a pretty cue and the guy that owned played very impressively.

Well, I was unprepared for the difference in feel and my sense of being able to control cue ball speed better and my stroke fell more balanced. After that, I switched my approach to pool cues and made an equipment change I do not regret. It would be great to be able to get fitted for a cue like golf clubs so they can be adjusted to your needs.

So I’ll close with this question. How often do you get to try other pool cues or do you even care? Do you think there could be a better fit?
 
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Allow me to present a question about the cue you’ve chosen to play with and something that occurred this past weekend. My first cue was 19 ozs. It was a Palmer. Why 19 ozs? Because that’s what everyone told me to get when in actuality, I bet half of the players didn’t know the weight of their cue. When I had my first custom built, the joint had to be piloted 5/16x14 and Cortland Linen because George Balabushka built cues that way and I also learned along the way that joint seems indestructible. And yet today, almost all my cues are flat ivory….Hmn?

How much do you know about your pool cue aside from joint type and tip? What is the taper length, shaft diameter, weight, butt diameter, any weight bolt & how heavy, butt diameter and weight, and did you have any say in how the cue was made or did you buy it used or new but unused? Now none of the aforementioned is needed for you to be a great player. I know many can just take a cue from the pool hall rack and still run racks as if it didn’t matter in the slightest. But there are more players that would shoot better if they used their own pool cue.

I wonder how much a player can improve if he experimented with different cues and then decided what he preferred. The best way is to be able to actuall messure and track the differences and performance by quantifiable measurements which is difficult to do & time consuming. After all, how many of us are equipped or capable of objectively measuring deflection, cue ball speed, horizontal English application, etc.?

Over the weekend, my son had another golf club fitting that was separated into a 14 club fitting ( woods & hybrid, irons, wedges and putter). He still has the putter fitting to complete but on Saturday he did woods & hybrids. Now he already had club fittings because as my gift to him, instead of a custom cue being built for him at my expense or picking any one of my cues, he needed clubs.

He has only been playing about 9 months and never had a lesson but he starts a series of 7 lessons next month (1 per month). Anyway, I gifted him a complete set of clubs and we went through several fittings to decide on his needs. Equipment is not cheap I learned and there are putters that cost $600-$700. That just seems crazy since I gave him 5-6 putters and my old Ping Eye clubs to get him started. Well, boy was that a bad mismatch for his shaft needs. Since was intended to be going to be a set of clubs he could play with for the next decade or longer. I wanted to get the best.

He has the great set of clubs anyone could hope for as an amateur but how well can he use them. We already knew he can hit a golf ball far from his time on the range hitting a 5 iron 210 yards but not consistently. Saturday he had his driver checked during the 14 club fitting for woods and he needed to add a hybrid. With just one minor change to his shaft length & shaft flex point on his woods, he distance exploded.

By shortening his 3 wood, he hit one 303 yards carry and the others were 285-295 yds. During his fitting for a hybrid, he tested 6 brands and favored one that he ordered that day. It was a 21 degree hybrid, or basically a 7 wood and he clobbered it 250, 264, 280, 285 and 294 yds……..Yikes, the average tour player gets 231 yds. carry swinging 102 mph and 149 ball speed. His swing speed with the hybrid was 103.3, 105.1, 107.6, 109.9, 110.8 mp & ball speed was 148.7, 150.9, 158.6, 159.7, 159.5.

By shortening his driver shaft, changing the weight and flex in a different extra-stiff shaft, he hit a drive of……get this…..322 yards carry, 357 total yards. He already ordered new shafts for his driver and 3 wood.

Based on how he can hit the ball, I think the move is to dump his 4 wood and carry 5 wedges instead of 4 (44, 48, 52, 56 & 60 degree wedges) because he going to rely on wedges and 8-9 iron a lot. He now has 44, 50, 54, & 58 degree Volkey wedges. So dump the 4 iron, bend 3 shafts and add another Volkey wedge. He plays the new Titleist Black Vapor wedges that match his TM Shadowfall irons and his driver is a TM Shadowfall Qi4D LS Driver. This is going to be fun to watch him develop. With a driver swing of 119-122 mph, oh boy, lookout.

Back to pool…..from 1963 thru 2004, I always played with a piloted steel joint and then by accident, had opportunity to play with a Tim Scruggs flat ivory cue joint that was 2 ozs. lighter than my Runde Schon. ‘D normally not look to test play a cue that light or with that joint but it was a pretty cue and the guy that owned played very impressively.

Well, I was unprepared for the difference in feel and my sense of being able to control cue ball speed better and my stroke fell more balanced. After that, I switched my approach to pool cues and made an equipment change I do not regret. It would be great to be able to get fitted for a cue like golf clubs so they can be adjusted to your needs.

So I’ll close with this question. How often do you get to try other pool cues or do you even care? Do you think there could be a better fit?
Absolutely!!
I was always a fan of the piloted 5/16-14 as you were.
Since I started playing again, I've switched to a flat faced wood to wood joint for the hit.
I finally understand what all those old one pocket players have been saying all along.
Tim's ivory joints are some of the finest playing cues ever made!! You want a real kick in the ass?? Remove the bumper and play with it. Tell me what you think then.
 
I am an avid golfer and pool player with 60+ years of experience in each sport. Here is my opinion: golf club fitting is somewhat important for some people. Pool cue fitting is important for no one. Some cues may feel better to a particular person and some cues may feel not good, but that player can practice with either and have very similar results.
 
I am an avid golfer and pool player with 60+ years of experience in each sport. Here is my opinion: golf club fitting is somewhat important for some people. Pool cue fitting is important for no one. Some cues may feel better to a particular person and some cues may feel not good, but that player can practice with either and have very similar results.
The only golf club that's relative to pool is the putter.
 
I'm sorry folks but the joint has little to zero effect on how a cue hits/plays. This subject has been thrashed to death on here. There ARE factors that contribute to a cue's hit/feel but the joint ain't it.
 
Allow me to present a question about the cue you’ve chosen to play with and something that occurred this past weekend. My first cue was 19 ozs. It was a Palmer. Why 19 ozs? Because that’s what everyone told me to get when in actuality, I bet half of the players didn’t know the weight of their cue. When I had my first custom built, the joint had to be piloted 5/16x14 and Cortland Linen because George Balabushka built cues that way and I also learned along the way that joint seems indestructible. And yet today, almost all my cues are flat ivory….Hmn?

How much do you know about your pool cue aside from joint type and tip? What is the taper length, shaft diameter, weight, butt diameter, any weight bolt & how heavy, butt diameter and weight, and did you have any say in how the cue was made or did you buy it used or new but unused? Now none of the aforementioned is needed for you to be a great player. I know many can just take a cue from the pool hall rack and still run racks as if it didn’t matter in the slightest. But there are more players that would shoot better if they used their own pool cue.

I wonder how much a player can improve if he experimented with different cues and then decided what he preferred. The best way is to be able to actuall messure and track the differences and performance by quantifiable measurements which is difficult to do & time consuming. After all, how many of us are equipped or capable of objectively measuring deflection, cue ball speed, horizontal English application, etc.?

Over the weekend, my son had another golf club fitting that was separated into a 14 club fitting ( woods & hybrid, irons, wedges and putter). He still has the putter fitting to complete but on Saturday he did woods & hybrids. Now he already had club fittings because as my gift to him, instead of a custom cue being built for him at my expense or picking any one of my cues, he needed clubs.

He has only been playing about 9 months and never had a lesson but he starts a series of 7 lessons next month (1 per month). Anyway, I gifted him a complete set of clubs and we went through several fittings to decide on his needs. Equipment is not cheap I learned and there are putters that cost $600-$700. That just seems crazy since I gave him 5-6 putters and my old Ping Eye clubs to get him started. Well, boy was that a bad mismatch for his shaft needs. Since was intended to be going to be a set of clubs he could play with for the next decade or longer. I wanted to get the best.

He has the great set of clubs anyone could hope for as an amateur but how well can he use them. We already knew he can hit a golf ball far from his time on the range hitting a 5 iron 210 yards but not consistently. Saturday he had his driver checked during the 14 club fitting for woods and he needed to add a hybrid. With just one minor change to his shaft length & shaft flex point on his woods, he distance exploded.

By shortening his 3 wood, he hit one 303 yards carry and the others were 285-295 yds. During his fitting for a hybrid, he tested 6 brands and favored one that he ordered that day. It was a 21 degree hybrid, or basically a 7 wood and he clobbered it 250, 264, 280, 285 and 294 yds……..Yikes, the average tour player gets 231 yds. carry swinging 102 mph and 149 ball speed. His swing speed with the hybrid was 103.3, 105.1, 107.6, 109.9, 110.8 mp & ball speed was 148.7, 150.9, 158.6, 159.7, 159.5.

By shortening his driver shaft, changing the weight and flex in a different extra-stiff shaft, he hit a drive of……get this…..322 yards carry, 357 total yards. He already ordered new shafts for his driver and 3 wood.

Based on how he can hit the ball, I think the move is to dump his 4 wood and carry 5 wedges instead of 4 (44, 48, 52, 56 & 60 degree wedges) because he going to rely on wedges and 8-9 iron a lot. He now has 44, 50, 54, & 58 degree Volkey wedges. So dump the 4 iron, bend 3 shafts and add another Volkey wedge. He plays the new Titleist Black Vapor wedges that match his TM Shadowfall irons and his driver is a TM Shadowfall Qi4D LS Driver. This is going to be fun to watch him develop. With a driver swing of 119-122 mph, oh boy, lookout.

Back to pool…..from 1963 thru 2004, I always played with a piloted steel joint and then by accident, had opportunity to play with a Tim Scruggs flat ivory cue joint that was 2 ozs. lighter than my Runde Schon. ‘D normally not look to test play a cue that light or with that joint but it was a pretty cue and the guy that owned played very impressively.

Well, I was unprepared for the difference in feel and my sense of being able to control cue ball speed better and my stroke fell more balanced. After that, I switched my approach to pool cues and made an equipment change I do not regret. It would be great to be able to get fitted for a cue like golf clubs so they can be adjusted to your needs.

So I’ll close with this question. How often do you get to try other pool cues or do you even care? Do you think there could be a better fit?
Been playing 9mos and he has almost McIlroy-like clubhead speed? That's freakish. Rory's driver speed averages about 123 and he can let it out to around 128.
 
The golf club fitting is more important and it is more important for your son at his swing speed etc…. The lie of the golf club and the shaft characteristics will affect the ball flight more than the cue characteristics are going to affect the cueball path. The swing path and angle are going to affect how the sole of the club interacts with the turf and how the clubface interacts with the ball. Shaft flex characteristics matter a lot. The interaction of the tip with the cueball is different and the characteristics of the cue aren’t going to be able compensate for swing issues/characteristics like a golf club can to some degree. I’m not a club fitter and don’t keep up with the developments in golf equipment. But I have had club fittings and seen what tweaking loft/lie/shaft can do.

Cues feel different so the feedback can affect your sense of speed control. But that is hard to quantify. Really the only measurable thing is deflection. And you have to get used to it on a given shaft. The other measurables are weight and length. If you have a cue of reasonable length for you and it is within a range of weights, I don’t see how it is much more than preference. Unless someone can show me the flex characteristics of a shaft or butt affect the cueball differently for players with different strokes, I don’t see cue fitting as similar at all.
 
One thing that might be quantifiable is comparing the balance point to the swing path. Maybe with the stroke analyzers you could discern if a forward weighted cue or a rear weighted one gave you a straighter stroke. Not sure.
 
For me the shaft and tip is everything.
I like a long taper 12.25 diameter and a hard pressed triangle tip. The feel of the shaft moving through the fingers of your bridge must be familiar, comfortable. Currently playing with a custom Stephen Janes cue from Joss and using his kielwood shaft.
The butt of the cue is just eye candy for me. 19 ounces. Old school box cue, in what I call fall colors as in the season, yellow, orange and red inlays, birdseye maple, lizard wrap.
 

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For me the shaft and tip is everything.
I like a long taper 12.25 diameter and a hard pressed triangle tip. The feel of the shaft moving through the fingers of your bridge must be familiar, comfortable. Currently playing with a custom Stephen Janes cue from Joss and using his kielwood shaft.
The butt of the cue is just eye candy for me. 19 ounces. Old school box cue, in what I call fall colors as in the season, yellow, orange and red inlays, birdseye maple, lizard wrap.
Yep, its the shaft. Its the material, the taper, the ferrule, and tip that makes up what you feel in a cue. Not the joint.
 
Been playing 9mos and he has almost McIlroy-like clubhead speed? That's freakish. Rory's driver speed averages about 123 and he can let it out to around 128.
Yup…..I’m blown away but he was a baseball player thru HS and college and still plays. He’s proficient in martial arts and JuJitsu. I have videos of him in the gym doing pull-ups with a 50lb. weight on his waist. And get this, he competes in the 184 lb. division and I have videos of him submitting his opponent. He’s a grown man but still a kid at heart that likes being competitive.

So golf seemed natural for him. Last weekend he played in a foursome and one of the golfers was a single digit he didn’t know but obviously became acquainted with during the round. Matt was eratic with his driver so on the back nine he switched to using his 3 wood. On one hole the other golfer was beaming when he smacked a drive 275 in the Middle of the fairway. Matt swung and landed about 10-12 yards past him. He said to Matt you finally figured out your driver. He answered Nope, I’m only hitting my 3 wood on the back 9 and the other guy drive off muttering shit to himself.

I’d wager if he puts in the practice time between those 7 lessons once a month and plays 7-10 times a month since he
lives in San Diego and plays Torrey Pines North and South Courses often while the twilight rate and sunset justifies playing, I foresee him being a single digit a year from now. He possesses what the club fitter described as easy power.

There is a Asian family that lives in Clovis, CA which borders Fresno in a continuous fashion. One street separates the two cities like Kansas City has State Line Road. I think there’s 4 children age range of 6 to 16. They’ve gone to APA Nationals and won their age division. They practice relentlessly but still have fun competing against themselves. They have incorporated pool into their lifestyle & darn, these kids are all so talented. It pays off when you start that young.
 
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Why aren't you playing with a Meucci?
Because 2 years later that same player was bitching about the joint having to be tightened so hard it was hard to
break the cue down after playing with it. If he didn’t do that, the shaft tended to become loose. I was still playing
5/16x14 cues at that time and thought to myself everyone I see mostly played with a piloted steel joint so there’s got
to be a reason besides durability. I never pursued anything other than eventually having my first custom cue built and
naturally, I used a 15/16x14 piloted steel joint on the cue I had Bob Runde build.
 
I'm sorry folks but the joint has little to zero effect on how a cue hits/plays. This subject has been thrashed to death on here. There ARE factors that contribute to a cue's hit/feel but the joint ain't it.
Well, how about the weight contribution & position in the 58” length of the cue? Wouldn’t a wood to wood joint weigh
less than a piloted steel joint? What about energy transfer created by harder struck cue balls being transmitted that get
interrupted when passing thru a metal coupling smack dab in the middle of a pool cue versus two pieces of wood that
are twisted together snugly and tightly? Is a phenolic or ivory joint also dissimilar to a piloted steel joint or maybe none
of this matters as you believe. That’s what makes interesting discussions because I happen to think you’re incorrect.
 
For me, I have found more and more over time that shaft taper, tip type, and tip hardness degree really do contribute the most to the feedback as the cue strikes the cue ball.

If I have a shaft / tip combo that I like - between 3.5 and 4.2 ounces— I can play well with it on any solidly constructed cue butt - regardless of joint type - if the cue butt is 14.5 to 15.5 or so ounces.

This is just for me
 
Allow me to present a question about the cue you’ve chosen to play with and something that occurred this past weekend. My first cue was 19 ozs. It was a Palmer. Why 19 ozs? Because that’s what everyone told me to get when in actuality, I bet half of the players didn’t know the weight of their cue. When I had my first custom built, the joint had to be piloted 5/16x14 and Cortland Linen because George Balabushka built cues that way and I also learned along the way that joint seems indestructible. And yet today, almost all my cues are flat ivory….Hmn?

How much do you know about your pool cue aside from joint type and tip? What is the taper length, shaft diameter, weight, butt diameter, any weight bolt & how heavy, butt diameter and weight, and did you have any say in how the cue was made or did you buy it used or new but unused? Now none of the aforementioned is needed for you to be a great player. I know many can just take a cue from the pool hall rack and still run racks as if it didn’t matter in the slightest. But there are more players that would shoot better if they used their own pool cue.

I wonder how much a player can improve if he experimented with different cues and then decided what he preferred. The best way is to be able to actuall messure and track the differences and performance by quantifiable measurements which is difficult to do & time consuming. After all, how many of us are equipped or capable of objectively measuring deflection, cue ball speed, horizontal English application, etc.?

Over the weekend, my son had another golf club fitting that was separated into a 14 club fitting ( woods & hybrid, irons, wedges and putter). He still has the putter fitting to complete but on Saturday he did woods & hybrids. Now he already had club fittings because as my gift to him, instead of a custom cue being built for him at my expense or picking any one of my cues, he needed clubs.

He has only been playing about 9 months and never had a lesson but he starts a series of 7 lessons next month (1 per month). Anyway, I gifted him a complete set of clubs and we went through several fittings to decide on his needs. Equipment is not cheap I learned and there are putters that cost $600-$700. That just seems crazy since I gave him 5-6 putters and my old Ping Eye clubs to get him started. Well, boy was that a bad mismatch for his shaft needs. Since was intended to be going to be a set of clubs he could play with for the next decade or longer. I wanted to get the best.

He has the great set of clubs anyone could hope for as an amateur but how well can he use them. We already knew he can hit a golf ball far from his time on the range hitting a 5 iron 210 yards but not consistently. Saturday he had his driver checked during the 14 club fitting for woods and he needed to add a hybrid. With just one minor change to his shaft length & shaft flex point on his woods, he distance exploded.

By shortening his 3 wood, he hit one 303 yards carry and the others were 285-295 yds. During his fitting for a hybrid, he tested 6 brands and favored one that he ordered that day. It was a 21 degree hybrid, or basically a 7 wood and he clobbered it 250, 264, 280, 285 and 294 yds……..Yikes, the average tour player gets 231 yds. carry swinging 102 mph and 149 ball speed. His swing speed with the hybrid was 103.3, 105.1, 107.6, 109.9, 110.8 mp & ball speed was 148.7, 150.9, 158.6, 159.7, 159.5.

By shortening his driver shaft, changing the weight and flex in a different extra-stiff shaft, he hit a drive of……get this…..322 yards carry, 357 total yards. He already ordered new shafts for his driver and 3 wood.

Based on how he can hit the ball, I think the move is to dump his 4 wood and carry 5 wedges instead of 4 (44, 48, 52, 56 & 60 degree wedges) because he going to rely on wedges and 8-9 iron a lot. He now has 44, 50, 54, & 58 degree Volkey wedges. So dump the 4 iron, bend 3 shafts and add another Volkey wedge. He plays the new Titleist Black Vapor wedges that match his TM Shadowfall irons and his driver is a TM Shadowfall Qi4D LS Driver. This is going to be fun to watch him develop. With a driver swing of 119-122 mph, oh boy, lookout.

Back to pool…..from 1963 thru 2004, I always played with a piloted steel joint and then by accident, had opportunity to play with a Tim Scruggs flat ivory cue joint that was 2 ozs. lighter than my Runde Schon. ‘D normally not look to test play a cue that light or with that joint but it was a pretty cue and the guy that owned played very impressively.

Well, I was unprepared for the difference in feel and my sense of being able to control cue ball speed better and my stroke fell more balanced. After that, I switched my approach to pool cues and made an equipment change I do not regret. It would be great to be able to get fitted for a cue like golf clubs so they can be adjusted to your needs.

So I’ll close with this question. How often do you get to try other pool cues or do you even care? Do you think there could be a better fit?
In what world is 44 degrees a wedge? Holy cow, the last time I did clubfitting, 45 deg. was a 9 iron. (and that was on the strong side). I guess if you take a 6 iron and put an "8" on the sole, you can sell lots of clubs.
Rant aside, it sure looks like your son has a lot of natural talent when it comes to golf. I wish him well.
 
In what world is 44 degrees a wedge? Holy cow, the last time I did clubfitting, 45 deg. was a 9 iron. (and that was on the strong side). I guess if you take a 6 iron and put an "8" on the sole, you can sell lots of clubs.
Rant aside, it sure looks like your son has a lot of natural talent when it comes to golf. I wish him well.
Pitching wedge in a set of irons is 44-48 degrees. It’s why I told him to dump his 4 iron at 20 degrees. Most average golfers can’t consistently hit an iron less than 24 degrees which is the 5 iron loft in his set. He just ordered the Titleist GT3 Hybrid 4 (21 degrees adjustable) extra-stiff shaft also 1/2 shorter length. By removing his 4 iron, it lets him add a 5th wedge. So leave his PW at 44 degrees, bend his 4 new Volkey wedges 2 degrees lower so they’d be 48, 52 and 56 degrees instead of 50, 54 and 58 degrees. And add another Volkey wedge at 60 degrees for his 14 clubs.

With his length, he shouldn’t need a mid-iron on any par 4 or par 5, assuming he stays out of trouble and stays in the fairways. And he can only get better with a series of 7 lessons spaced a month apart. His scoring clubs will be his wedges on par 4 and par 5 holes, especially when he can hit his pitching wedge 150-55 yds. That means he’d still have 4 more wedges to get dialed in on distance & swings that are even spaced 4 degrees apart starting from his pitching wedge. That seems ideal to be able to carry 5 wedges because of how long you hit your woods and irons.

Wish he took to pool instead of golf. I had him covered for equipment so golf is costing me as much as a new custom cue.
 
The best hitting cue I ever tried, and I played with it for 90 mins., was a Meucci wood to wood radial pin joint.
I was stunned how it felt so solid and the vibration was softened that it seemed indiscernible & really amazing.
I've never understood this feel of the hit thing until that comment. I play drums so to me vibrations from wood? Duh.
 
Well, how about the weight contribution & position in the 58” length of the cue? Wouldn’t a wood to wood joint weigh
less than a piloted steel joint? What about energy transfer created by harder struck cue balls being transmitted that get
interrupted when passing thru a metal coupling smack dab in the middle of a pool cue versus two pieces of wood that
are twisted together snugly and tightly? Is a phenolic or ivory joint also dissimilar to a piloted steel joint or maybe none
of this matters as you believe. That’s what makes interesting discussions because I happen to think you’re incorrect.
The pool scientists will tell you that the joint type or material does not affect the "hit".

I am not a pool scientist.
 
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