Ivory vs. Ivorine for Inlays

Mikey Town

Mikey Town

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi all,

When being used in cues, for inlay purposes, what is the difference between ivory and ivorine? This is primarily a question based on looks, as it wouldn't be used for a joint, butt cap or ferrule.

If there is a discernible difference between the look of ivory vs. ivorine inlays, what are they? Do they age differently (if at all) and turn different colors over time? If you had two "mystery" cues in front of you, would you be able to pick the one with real ivory? I also know that there are different kinds of ivorine (2, 3, 4, etc...) but don't really know anything about them. Do they look different from one another, or is it just a slight difference in how the material is produced?

I'm basically trying to figure out if there is any difference, outside of value, between the two. I'll be looking into getting a custom made in a few months and don't want to pay extra for ivory if I can get the same look from ivorine (or an alternative material). I'm not a huge collector or re-seller, and it would be a main playing cue, so I'm not concerned about the effect it would have on value in the long run.

Also, if anyone could post any side-by-side photos you may have, comparing ivory and ivorine inlays, it would be much appreciated.


Thanks in advance!

Mike
 
Mikey Town said:
Hi all,

When being used in cues, for inlay purposes, what is the difference between ivory and ivorine? One is the real deal the other is a subsitute.This is primarily a question based on looks, as it wouldn't be used for a joint, butt cap or ferrule. Why wouldn't it be used for a joint, butt cap or ferrule?

If there is a discernible difference between the look of ivory vs. ivorine inlays, what are they? Ivorine won't have the same grain that real Ivory does.Do they age differently (if at all) and turn different colors over time? If you had two "mystery" cues in front of you, would you be able to pick the one with real ivory? Yes I believe so unless the inlays are very small where you couldn't see the grain I also know that there are different kinds of ivorine (2, 3, 4, etc...) but don't really know anything about them. Do they look different from one another, or is it just a slight difference in how the material is produced? You might also consider Elforyn or Juma.

I'm basically trying to figure out if there is any difference, outside of value, between the two. If you used Ivory for a ferrule it will have a different feel/sound than Ivorine and different squirt characteristics. I'll be looking into getting a custom made in a few months and don't want to pay extra for ivory if I can get the same look from ivorine (or an alternative material). I'm not a huge collector or re-seller, and it would be a main playing cue, so I'm not concerned about the effect it would have on value in the long run.

Also, if anyone could post any side-by-side photos you may have, comparing ivory and ivorine inlays, it would be much appreciated.

It's really a matter of personal preference. If you want the look feel sound of Ivory, get it. If you want the look feel sound etc. of an ivory substitute get that.




Thanks in advance!

Mike
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My comments are in blue.
 
Thanks for the comments dr9ball!

In your opinion, between ivorine, elforyn and juma, what looks closest to ivory when used in small inlays (not points... just small stuff)?
 
Honestly, what is the point of needing real ivory inlays other than saying "hey guys, look, ivory inlays!" ? *other than resale*

For 99% of the people that you are gonna wave your cue in front of bragging about ivory inlays, they will have no idea how to tell the difference between real ivory and a substitute. Just say it is real unicorn horn and move on, imo.

Inlays could be made of shoe leather and won't have an impact on the play of a cue. Just tell the guys at the hall that your cue has inlays from a sigbin, which is from Filipino culture, which must make you play better, of course.
 
PaulieB said:
Honestly, what is the point of needing real ivory inlays other than saying "hey guys, look, ivory inlays!" ? *other than resale*

For 99% of the people that you are gonna wave your cue in front of bragging about ivory inlays, they will have no idea how to tell the difference between real ivory and a substitute. Just say it is real unicorn horn and move on, imo.

Inlays could be made of shoe leather and won't have an impact on the play of a cue. Just tell the guys at the hall that your cue has inlays from a sigbin, which is from Filipino culture, which must make you play better, of course.
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Thanks for the input PaulieB.

Do you happen to have any sources for pre-ban Unicorn Horn?

I will have to give the Sigbin some serious consideration, though. Its Filipino roots must surely result in a smoother stroke...
 
I would be happy to sell you some Efloryn ....err, i mean Unicorn horn... for a really great price!
 
PaulieB said:
I would be happy to sell you some Efloryn ....err, i mean Unicorn horn... for a really great price!
Click to expand...

LOL... thanks for the offer.

Now that I think of it, a cue with a "Unicorn Horn" grip section might look pretty cool:

CA02998+-+Narwhal%252C+Tusk.JPG


For those of you who have seen both Elforyn (with grain) and Camel Bone, which do you think looks closer to real ivory?
 
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Thanks for the photos... that helps a lot. The Elforyn looks really good. The ferrule in that photo looks really yellowish, though... is that pretty accurate, or is the white balance in the photo off a bit?
 
For the $$$ I couldn't tell the difference...

When I had my cue built Dan showed me two inlays... One was ivory and one was elforyn... I could not tell the difference between the two as is true with most people with just a general knowledge... People / players just assume it is all ivory when they see it... The cue is at http://www.dishawcues.com/Black_White%20Ambassador.jpg. For the difference in price I could not justify the added expense. It looks the same to me and many others.
 
Hey PauliB......

Were you really serious?........Do you buy fake, imitation watches or perhaps give your favorite gal a zircon rather than buy her a real diamond?

If you like or appreciate ivory in your cues, you either go real or pass on the deal. Otherwise, just go with MOP instead in your cues which is a lot less expensive and shows really well in some cue designs. An ivory ferrule has a unique sound and feel. And in cue joints, ivory rocks the pool world and you can see that when you review photos of cues made by the legendary, great cue-makers. Their very best cues had an ivory joint and the photo galleries of their cues attests to my opinion / statement.

Admittedly, ivory isn't for everyone but let's get real.....there isn't any substitute for ivory......."NONE"..........just wanna be alternatives. Just as there isn't any equivalent substitute for a authentic Gus Szamboti cue, not even his son Barry's cue qualifies, there isn't any substitute for ivory, only lesser alternatives. The looks of a cue do not make it play any better so as far as inlays are concerned, Paulie B. is right which is why I suggested substituting MOP for ivory.

However, when it comes to cue performance, i.e., ferrules and cue joints, ivory definitely plays much differently than anything else. You either love ivory or hate it and you can discern, I'm a big fan of using only genuine ivory in my cues. I would ever even consider owning a cue that used Juma instead of Ivory for its cue joint but as always, to each their own. This might mistakenly come across like snobbery on my part but with all candor and honesty, it really all comes down to how the cue plays...........nothing plays and feels as well as ivory does.......IMO.
 
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Huh.............

Not, sure how to answer that?

Would I like a Natural rack or a Silicone rack.
They both perform the same.
And yes size does matter.
 
Elofryn and ivory look and play similar. Its the closest you will get to real ivory. Most cuemakers would agree. Juma plays alot like ivory but doesnt have the grainy look.
 
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