joint and shaft colar question...

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joint and shaft colar question...PICS ARE UP

can a shaft colar be moved in order to line up ring work with joint colar without making a new shaft colar? i have a fancy cue that the shaft rings design dont line up and was wandering if i could send it back to maker to have them religned without having him make new colars....thanks mickey carroll
 
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3x8 10 pin...flat faced ivory joint....i just wanted to have the shaft colars moved to line up with the joint colar when shaft screwed down tight...thanks sorry i didnt give all info...mickey
 
If you face off the joint on the butt, a couple thousanths at a time and test fit it every time, you will get the results you want.
I just had to line up some rings like that this morning.

Hope this helps
Lee
LP Custom Cues
 
can a shaft colar be moved in order to line up ring work with joint colar without making a new shaft colar? i have a fancy cue that the shaft rings design dont line up and was wandering if i could send it back to maker to have them religned without having him make new colars....thanks mickey carroll

Reface the shaft or the joint collar 'til they line up. How far off is it?
Pics would help
 
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Reface the shaft or the joint collar 'til they line up. How far off is it?
Pics would help

If you reface the collar on the shaft, won't that make the collar shorter than the one on the butt?
Even a couple of thousanths would make a difference.

Lee
 
i will not post pics because i have asked the cue maker about fixing it however i was wandering if it was possable to fix with out making new colars for the shafts....they inlay is about 1/2 in the ring work....very intrecate...has alternating work in the rings that is why it is an 1/2in off....
 
It wouldnt make a difference how far its off.
You will just have to take a little more off the butt joint face.
It won't be enough to notice in the length of the butt.
Probably only a few thousanths.

Lee
 
If you reface the collar on the shaft, won't that make the collar shorter than the one on the butt?
Even a couple of thousanths would make a difference.

Lee
IMO It's easier to deal with the shaft, rather than a finished butt. Shaft collars and joint collars commonly have different lengths so the margin for adjustment is bigger on the shaft side. Worst case, change the lower part of the ringwork collar and refinish - 4-5" max.
 
well thanks for all the responses on this topic...but i have been in touch with the cue maker and was told they were done this way for a reason.he tought they looked better done this way..i wondered why both shafts lined up perfect with the opposing dots on the inlays :embarrassed2:.... mickey carroll
 
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IMO It's easier to deal with the shaft, rather than a finished butt. Shaft collars and joint collars commonly have different lengths so the margin for adjustment is bigger on the shaft side. Worst case, change the lower part of the ringwork collar and refinish - 4-5" max.

Thats fine. Once you replace the lower ring, your right back where you started.
Seems to me, the butt would be safer.
I chuck up finished cues almost every day and havent had a problem, just need to be mindful of what your doing.

Like Mickey said, the original cuebuilder has been notified and Im sure knows what he's doing. I'm pretty sure he will be able to fix it.

Lee
 
Thats fine. Once you replace the lower ring, your right back where you started.
Seems to me, the butt would be safer.
I chuck up finished cues almost every day and havent had a problem, just need to be mindful of what your doing.

Like Mickey said, the original cuebuilder has been notified and Im sure knows what he's doing. I'm pretty sure he will be able to fix it.

Lee

Goog for you Mickey.

Lee, I just want my butts to be exact 29" or whatever length I designed it, specially on a finished one. So whatever mods, I do it on the shaft side.:thumbup:
 
If you reface the collar on the shaft, won't that make the collar shorter than the one on the butt?
Even a couple of thousanths would make a difference.

Lee
If you can see a couple of thousanths difference, your eyes are way better than mine.

No offense intended.
 
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No offense taken.
I must have pretty good eyes.
I can spot a .003 runout in my deadcenter when it's spinning at low speed.
Must be from years of machine work.
Lee
 
For the record with the ivory joint I would face the shaft. I would always face the shaft bC if you have 2 shafts that's the only way to get both lined up. if one is lined up and one isn't facing the butt will throw the other off.

The correct way it to do the shaft
 
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True enough. To a certain extent.
But he didn't say there was two shafts.
I was refering to the process for one shaft which is different than indexing two shafts.
With two shafts you face off both until they are in the same position then face off the joint.
Like i said before, Mickey just wanted to know if it could be done without replacing the collar, and I told him yes it's possible and gave the reason why.
I didn't post in this thread to get in a debate about the correct process of indexing ringwork. There is more than one way to do it. Both ways work. I just choose to do it that way because that's the way I learned how to do it and why change what works.
 
Just my 2 cents. If it is fancy ring work then shouldn't they have been squared up in the beginning. I have never heard of ring work of the nature described being off set because it looks better. Seems odd to me. I'm sure you have a nice cue there Mikey. I've seen your cues before. I have also seen Lee's way of squaring up ring work by utilizing the joint and not the ring itself and it turned out perfect. Let us know which way you go for the correction. I would love to see before and after pics also. Good Luck:thumbup: Duane
 
after squaring up the fancy rings i think the cue maker did the right thing by doing it this way....nothing going to be done about it because it looks better the way it is....thanks for all the help guys...
 
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