joint change

jackpot

jackpot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm sure this has been asked, but I would like a steel joint changed to, juma
or whatever is white that is good. not Ivory. Couldn't the steel joint be turned
down and the other material be sleeved over it. About how much trouble would
this be and what would it cost.
jack
 
jackpot said:
I'm sure this has been asked, but I would like a steel joint changed to, juma
or whatever is white that is good. not Ivory. Couldn't the steel joint be turned
down and the other material be sleeved over it. About how much trouble would
this be and what would it cost.
jack
Click to expand...

The steel joint can be removed and replace with your choice of materials.

Mario
 
jackpot said:
I'm sure this has been asked, but I would like a steel joint changed to, juma
or whatever is white that is good. not Ivory. Couldn't the steel joint be turned
down and the other material be sleeved over it. About how much trouble would
this be and what would it cost.
jack
Click to expand...

No problem there, I just did what your asking on a McDermott with their quick release joint.
Took a good ounce of that cue...
 
jackpot said:
I'm sure this has been asked, but I would like a steel joint changed to, juma
or whatever is white that is good. not Ivory. Couldn't the steel joint be turned
down and the other material be sleeved over it. About how much trouble would
this be and what would it cost.
jack
Click to expand...


Hi Jack
Yes...you can turn the joint down and put another material over it.
My questions
Why?????
Cosmetic appearance????
Weight distribution and or balance????
 
jackpot said:
It's a Pechauer. Weight distribution.
thanks jack
Click to expand...

Hi Jack
I understand. I would call Pechauer. Extremely nice people there. Not saying they'll do the change but the original Cue Maker, is the right place to start.
 
use original cue maker. Have you thought Refinish cue, and new wrap. Many other thing to think about.
 
The stainless joint should be taken totally off and replaced. This will require a forearm refinish to do it right. The job won't be cheap. So unless it is a high end cue Kim's advice to buy a new cue might be your cheaper option when considering what your cue will bring on the used market..
 
As Chris and Kim points out it's not difficult to do, but it's difficult to do well.
Respraying the cue etc.
Takes a while to do well.
Your cue better be straight as an arrow too, so the joint fits perfect.
 
If Y'all only knew how much I hate going to my computer room. lmao



I'm not taking work but wanted to show you Jack.........Phenolic i.d.
Stainless joint
Phenolic over joint to protect the outer joint against heat and cold.
Elforyn outer shell.
End result 1/2 ounce shifted from the joint area to the rear of the cue.
 
Last edited:
thanks

Michael Webb said:
If Y'all only knew how much I hate going to my computer room. lmao



I'm not taking work but wanted to show you Jack.........Phenolic i.d.
Stainless joint
Phenolic over joint to protect the outer joint against heat and cold.
Elforyn outer shell.
End result 1/2 ounce shifted from the joint area to the rear of the cue.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, that's what I would like to have done. What would something like this
cost. Just a ballpark figure.
jack
 
jackpot said:
Thanks Mike, that's what I would like to have done. What would something like this
cost. Just a ballpark figure.
jack
Click to expand...


Hi Jack
Your welcome. I understood what you typed. I've been around a few years...lol... I can't take any work. I just voice an opinion when I can. Pechauer is the right place to look. Show them my picture if it helps get your point across. They are very nice people.
 
Mike, if I understand it right, it's phenolic first, then a thin stainless, then phenolic, then elforyn? I zoomed the picture but couldn't tell if it was that order. Is the thin stainless collar there to maintain the 'stainless' hit? Just wondering, as phenolic is very hard, but does hits a bit different than stainless.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Mike, if I understand it right, it's phenolic first, then a thin stainless, then phenolic, then elforyn? I zoomed the picture but couldn't tell if it was that order. Is the thin stainless collar there to maintain the 'stainless' hit? Just wondering, as phenolic is very hard, but does hits a bit different than stainless.
Dave
Click to expand...


Hi Dave
It is a full stainless joint 5/8x18 turned down. The inside phenolic is for the i.d. wall only. All of my stainless joints have a phenolic pilot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top