joint pin installation

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a small stock of the 3 standard size joint pins I will be trying out in a few cues We have in progress. Sizes are 5/16x18 5/16x14 and the standard 3/8 pin. I do not have thread grinding capability yet, but do have the taps, so they will be tapped. Wondering if anyone has any advice on assuring precise alignment of the pins? I have installed the 5/16x18 and they can be tough to get straight even when centered well. besides using a piloted or reground tap are there any other methods of assuring precise alignment everytime? I have heard of not tapping and just under drilling the hole for a press fit, but is this a sound method of instalation, or would this pull out later? I have also heard of using a shoulder and press fitting which would bring up the same question. Would reaming the hole make that much of a difference? If so what size Reamer? I would rather not have to do any tapering off the pin, but need to be sure that I can tap the joint on the money before taking that chance. I do not have a boring bar small enough to use for the pin bore.
Also I have had one blowout from glue expansion, realizing I need some more room in there for that, I am curious how much deeper of a hole is acceptable, then the depth of the pin to allow for expansion? also would the pin align easier if not as snug? I have also had Chris recomend the three flute solid carbide drill bits, but could not tell which ones they were in the travers catalog by the pages and pages of bits in the thing. Any good sources or recomendations there? I already center drill everything first.
This may only be a problem in 1 out of so many cues, but would like to limit mistakes as much as possible, and establish a method for each of these three sizes, and then go on to the better pin sizes after I have these down.

Just want to say I think this is a great forum, and look forward to swapping ideas with you guys in the future.


Thanks,
Greg
 
I use special taps that are undersized by the standard but are right for my use, so there is no slop in the threads. I have also heard about some that just drill and press the pins in. Unfortunately I think this is Bullshit. Just another short cut that is unacceptable.

"Quality Is No Accident"
 
Michael Webb said:
I use special taps that are undersized by the standard but are right for my use, so there is no slop in the threads. I have also heard about some that just drill and press the pins in. Unfortunately I think this is Bullshit. Just another short cut that is unacceptable.

"Quality Is No Accident"



Hello Michael
I was just looking at your not so sneaky sneky pete in the other post, Very nice.
On the pins I do not like the idea of press fitting either. I really like the threads clean as possible when I tap. From what I can tell there is not alot of slop, altough could be. I must be bottoming out the pin too much when this occurs or something because the pin rides fine just mocked up before it wants to snug up, but when glued up and snugged down It's thrown off sometimes. Does not always happen, but more then I would like. It blew the wood out one time also when I snugged and glued, so this leads Me to believe that even i did not do a good job with relief slots or I should be leaving a gap instead of bottoming out the pin. I don't have this problem when joining the handle and forearm, and I am able to get the tenon pretty tight on those without a blowout, so no espansion problem there, just at the pin joint. altough i don't care for this method, I would drill a small relief hole in the side to be safe, but really would not like to have It there unless I can blend It with the finish. Wondering How Much gap Should be from the joint pin to the bottom of the tapped hole? The tap seems to be alright. Do you under drill the hole, or use a under sized tap? I have all three sizes, got them from _tls supply. Are they any good or should I go with another type.
The blowout I had could have been due to the wood, it was curly maple and looked like the grain just pulled apart. I have a box of tighter grain birdseyes dowels, and some old veneered point blanks from the eighties with straight grain (not sure who made them). maybe these will hold up alittle better. I only have four that are ready for trim and final turnings. 2 are cocobolo handles with cocobolo/white trim rings 1 into birdseye front, and other into curly. The other 2 are 4 point veneered rosewood fronts with maple handle, will be doing either pressed wrap or leather.
Been doing repair & dreaming of building cues for over 10 years, and scraping for enough equipment and materials, just to turn a cue out, for around 5 years, and We just getting where We can do them. I have wanted to give It up a couple of times, but just can't stop, small work space was getting tough and no room, but when the hurricanes wipped through here and tore our roofs all to ---, It just put a halt to everything. The good thing to come out of it was We got some junk cleared out, and are now ripping down garage with 2 rooms attatched to make into our shop, so we can leave equipment setup and dedicated to one thing. Also we Are getting some much needed repairs done, so within this next year I will Have some of that off the mind, so I can spend more time building more equipment, and turning stock. ofcoarse I will be doing some cues in the evenings until then. Just can't wait until I can focus all my attention on It.

Thanks for the reply, I've read your Bio, so I know you had to learn the hard way as well, and were fortunate enough to have good people that were willing to give you advice. I am glad to see that you are willing to pass some on. I have learned alot up to this point the hard way, but must to admit I would not have made It this far without advice from others like you. It's not about the money to me, I"ll always spend more then I will ever make. It's just a passion for me that I can't let go of. I'd make more money selling others cues, which i have had to do to help support this hobby LOL. I would never expect someone to shell out info to me if It was their trade secret, nor would I blame them, altough as for me since I am not in it for the marketing Myself I would not mind sharing original ideas of mine with someone else if they were serious, not just out to steal ideas, and willing to help someone else, as to pass it down the line. in the begining I just wanted to build My own cue to My spects to improve my game without spending a grand or more to have one built, LOL, Well, should have just had someone build Me one, would have been alot cheaper that way. I'd hate to think how many I could have for whats been spent up to this point, and the buying or building of equipment and tooling seems endless. I had A guy pickup the first cue I built that My father was showing off against my wishes. As you can imagine since It was My first I was not at all proud of It, and wanted to burn It. This guy picked the cue up and ran 3 racks in a row without missing a shot, handed it back and said you can't miss with it, and this is a player that is very good, but I have won against more than lost to. Needless to say this fueled the fire, because that is what most concerns me is how it plays. I did some chainlink trim out of bacote/maple billet and blended the grain of the rings with a buttsleave of maple. It amazed me how no one could figure out how I got that bacote in that maple like that, when all I could see was glue lines giving it away. I can only get better from there, and have many people wanting cues, just hard to explain to them It takes time, and I am limited to a small batch at a time right now, as I have alot of stock that still needs turned and that takes time. Also have to keep breaking the lathe down to do repair work everytime I get It setup to do something. I am building a lathe for just doing tips & ferrels as to free this one up. Also plan to get atleast another metal lathe when I have this extra space ready. maybe even more after that LOL, depends what comes my way at the time. tired of the slow pace but just going to keep chipping away.

Sorry for the long post, thanks again, You seem like a standup guy, and do apprietiate the advice.


Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
I have a small stock of the 3 standard size joint pins I will be trying out in a few cues We have in progress. Sizes are 5/16x18 5/16x14 and the standard 3/8 pin. I do not have thread grinding capability yet, but do have the taps, so they will be tapped. Wondering if anyone has any advice on assuring precise alignment of the pins? I have installed the 5/16x18 and they can be tough to get straight even when centered well. besides using a piloted or reground tap are there any other methods of assuring precise alignment everytime? I have heard of not tapping and just under drilling the hole for a press fit, but is this a sound method of instalation, or would this pull out later? I have also heard of using a shoulder and press fitting which would bring up the same question. Would reaming the hole make that much of a difference? If so what size Reamer? I would rather not have to do any tapering off the pin, but need to be sure that I can tap the joint on the money before taking that chance. I do not have a boring bar small enough to use for the pin bore.
Also I have had one blowout from glue expansion, realizing I need some more room in there for that, I am curious how much deeper of a hole is acceptable, then the depth of the pin to allow for expansion? also would the pin align easier if not as snug? I have also had Chris recomend the three flute solid carbide drill bits, but could not tell which ones they were in the travers catalog by the pages and pages of bits in the thing. Any good sources or recomendations there? I already center drill everything first.
This may only be a problem in 1 out of so many cues, but would like to limit mistakes as much as possible, and establish a method for each of these three sizes, and then go on to the better pin sizes after I have these down.

Just want to say I think this is a great forum, and look forward to swapping ideas with you guys in the future.


Thanks,
Greg

Here is my method. My 5/16-14 pins actually measure .308. I drill my hole with a 1/4 carbide drill. Then I go in with a .309 reamer to a depth of 1". Then I tap the hole and install the pin. Same with the 3/8 pins. Just mic them and get a reamer about .001 oversize. You want to drill deep enough so that the pin will not bottom out. Don't go too deep or you will have a source of a potential buzz.
 
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Cue Crazy said:
It blew the wood out one time also when I snugged and glued, so this leads Me to believe that even i did not do a good job with relief slots or I should be leaving a gap instead of bottoming out the pin.

Greg

Too much glue.
 
Sounds like you are filling the hole with epoxy before you put the pin. That can cause the blow out problem. I cut two relief slots in every pin, Spin them under a wire wheel then wash them with laquer thinner. At the joint, I use a skinny stick and just wet the threads and put the epoxy on the pin then install it. Before the epoxy dries, spin the cue (low Rpms please) between centers and give a little tap if needed. Dial indicator with a magnetic base is one of the most important tools in any shop. The taps sold are fine. You do not have to grind threads if you drill and tap correctly. I have spun some shafts that were ground thread and some of them still have a bounce 5 to 10 inches up from the joint which means that it was not aligned straight when the threads were done. Tapping is easy, the trick to all of it is, is your product actually held straight before you start drilling it. Thanks for the stand up guy compliment. I have been fortunate but if you stay true to your craft people will help. Which means if you get to go to another cuemakers shop never tell any one what you have seen. If you do, you not only disrespect yourself but you also disrespect the cuemaker.
 
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Cue Crazy said:
I have a small stock of the 3 standard size joint pins I will be trying out in a few cues We have in progress. Sizes are 5/16x18 5/16x14 and the standard 3/8 pin. I do not have thread grinding capability yet, but do have the taps, so they will be tapped. Wondering if anyone has any advice on assuring precise alignment of the pins? I have installed the 5/16x18 and they can be tough to get straight even when centered well. besides using a piloted or reground tap are there any other methods of assuring precise alignment everytime? I have heard of not tapping and just under drilling the hole for a press fit, but is this a sound method of instalation, or would this pull out later? I have also heard of using a shoulder and press fitting which would bring up the same question. Would reaming the hole make that much of a difference? If so what size Reamer? I would rather not have to do any tapering off the pin, but need to be sure that I can tap the joint on the money before taking that chance. I do not have a boring bar small enough to use for the pin bore.
Also I have had one blowout from glue expansion, realizing I need some more room in there for that, I am curious how much deeper of a hole is acceptable, then the depth of the pin to allow for expansion? also would the pin align easier if not as snug? I have also had Chris recomend the three flute solid carbide drill bits, but could not tell which ones they were in the travers catalog by the pages and pages of bits in the thing. Any good sources or recomendations there? I already center drill everything first.
This may only be a problem in 1 out of so many cues, but would like to limit mistakes as much as possible, and establish a method for each of these three sizes, and then go on to the better pin sizes after I have these down.

Just want to say I think this is a great forum, and look forward to swapping ideas with you guys in the future.


Thanks,
Greg
Look under Drills, Carbide, Three Flute. Drilling the hole perfect won't get the pin in perfect if you don't have the nose ground on your tip. That is the good thing about the the radial tap. It has the nose ground on it. I guess I should get them made as Atlas and Prather have both said they would make them but never got around to it on the other threads.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
 
Murray Tucker said:
Too much glue.



Your last post layed It out perfectly for me, thanks a ton for the info. That gives me the ability to figure any given size pin I may need to install, and some kind of formula to go by, and lets me know that the reamer is a good idea As I expected. Also letting me know that is alright not to bottom the pin. That was a conflicting issue for me since I am paticular about tenon size and bores being snug fitted just right, so naturally i was afraid It would be considered sloppy for the pin not to be tight with the bottom. Getting It right 3 or even 4 out of 5 times guessing/eyeballing at It is just not acceptable for me, and having a system is more My style, and will help greatly. I do apprietiate it. By you explaining how undersized It is, It allows Me to figure the rest of the sizes out for Myself. Sure I can get lucky and turn a good one out that hits good, but I would like everyone of my cues like that. I'm not too bad at figuring things out on My own, but must addmit I am no different then anyone else in the way I do It. Research, and I over analize everything, which can be good as far as brainstorming, or can be non productive and lead to burnout when piled on top of each other. Trial in error still comes in to play with an educated Guess, and disasters are sure to happen just the same. By asking you guys who have long since been there and done that, It will help me focus on bigger issues. Also with funds being limited as they always are, I know what bits and reamers I need up front instead of the old trial and error method that we all love so much. So needless to say can't thank you guys enough.

On the Glue- I believe you are correct, I pretty much figured I had done it by accident this paticular time. LOL, the blowout actually occured When showing My father how to to install a pin, and we both thought I might have got too much glue in the hole before we snugged it, and then heard a pop after snugged. Did not notice till later after pulling it out what had happened. Guess I better leave the lessons to someone more qualified for now LOL. He was smart enough to notice what happened ahead as well, so guess thats a good sign. He's a jam up tip/repair guy, but has pretty much encourged me to learn and helps out when he can. He is the only person that benifits from My knowledge, so I have no desire to share secrets with anyone not worthy. Without him, I would have never made it this far, even though I still have a ways to go. We do keep It in the family so to speak, and anyone true blue that opens up and helps with out expecting in return becomes part of that to us, and I would give the shirt off my back if i had to. ofcoarse that Kind of trust comes over time, and is getting harder to find these days, but I have noticed that there are those in this hobby that have nothing to gain and everything to loose, and they are still willing to help someone like me, with me knowing that if they are making a living, their time alone is valueable because this stuff does'nt happen over night. This is very inspiring to me, as long as there are good people around Me, I can keep food on the table, and do what I love, I would be happy just getting by. I was not born the most unfortunate person in the world, but sure was not born with a silver spoon either. Allot of My knocks were the hard ones, and don't expect to be my last, but that is how wisdom is truelly gained in my humble opinion. In My Opinion the pool industry as a whole does not get the credit it deserves. I heard It said somewhere that if you are a player, you can walk into any pool hall, and you will see the same faces, you can pick the players out of the room, And something like- what is it about this passion that brings so many people together from all different backgrounds and trades. This rings true for me at least where I am at. The pool hall We shoot at is non smoking, and stays pretty packed. We can leave our sticks, and all our stuff by our table to walk outside, knowing there can be as many as twenty people that will notice if someone tries to walk out with our stuff. Now this place is alot nicer, and in my younger years shooting spent plenty of time in places I probably would'nt now just to get a game of pool, But the best way to find out whos who, is to throw a bunch of people in a dark little one room bar with 1 or if lucky 2 tables night after night, and add alcohol. You learn alot about people. You find whos there to play simply because they love the game just like you, and and a few other things also. Some of those people still shoot with us today, and are very good friends, we have taught, and learned from each other over the years. Now the sport is growing at a rapid pace, and league has brought more in over the last 4-5 years, we have met even more people as time goes on, and probably stay busy with work from people We know Not to mention word of mouth, if I can just get everything fixed around here, and setup shop. I hate turning work away because We don't have the time with all the repair, rebuilding the larger area for a shop that needs done first, sure could use the funds, then Maybe I could Pay someone else to do It for Us, Ah Well, Firsts Things First. hopefully I can get all that taken within this year and be on My way turning stock, and setting up better.
I would never give away anything I saw in someone's shop, I have had a couple of offers to check shops out, One was a decent size producer now days that started out small, also does good work, even have one of his cues from the old days, and another was small but did beautifull work. they were'nt too far away to drive, but Unfortunatly time passed and with everything that's been going on never got a chance to call and set a time up. Could kick My'self in the butt for that.

On the centering you are correct that was one of the reasons I ask. I had one pickup a bad chatter between the handle and bottom of the forearm, and hacked It up on me. It was a thin butt, I was able to save It, and make it roll straight, thinned the butt out more though, It shoots very well and solid for a thin butt, but I can't sell something like that to anyone, so there's another player cue in the collection for me and pops. I am amazed at how precise you have to be on the pins, because I could not see much runout at all before tapering and this was using the back of My tool in the tool post to gauge It by. I guess you guys are correct the is Obvious enough "indicator". I have a machinist buddy thats helped me out and milled some mounts for me before I just got the minimill, he said he had an extra indicator he'd give me. Does'nt have a base, but I am sure with a purchase of a few cutting tools for the mill I could slap something together to mount It, need to start tooling that thing up anyway. Guess I should give him a ring and check It out. I don't know much about what type I need, Seems like I've seen 2 types for sale, one was priced reasonable and the other was quite expensive. I think he said his had a nylon ball/contact on it, but don't know if It's suitable. I would imagine that anything to gauge by would better than the back of a cutting tool. You guys think It's worth hitting him up for, or should I just buy one?
Also My tailstock and headstock seemed lined up, so It leads me to think that if theres a problem chucking, and It's on the back side of the headstock, even the 2 chucks in relation to each other, or steady location. I can see where an indicator would help me trace that down, to see what I am doing wrong. By seeing the highest point on the indicator and know precisly what angle to rechuck at would probably be easier. I guess I take It for granted I can do It by eye, and just being too dog gone cheap. time to breakdown and get one, and be done with It.
Please let me know what you two guys think I should get for an indicator.

You Guys are KOOOL in My book, no matter what they say about you, LOL (one of my Pops old day Leg twisters) Man, seems like that was from my days, Guess they will be calling me pops before long. Sure have enough gray hair. Does that Meen Your Wiser, or just had too much dust in Your hair? I'm Sure It's just a tale. Thanks Again guys it's good to know you.

Greg
 
cueman said:
Look under Drills, Carbide, Three Flute. Drilling the hole perfect won't get the pin in perfect if you don't have the nose ground on your tip. That is the good thing about the the radial tap. It has the nose ground on it. I guess I should get them made as Atlas and Prather have both said they would make them but never got around to it on the other threads.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com

Chris,

Can you recomend anyone to grind My atlas taps, and know what it costs By any chance? Is this something I should not attempt to setup a make shift setup to do myself with grinding stone. I have a small metal lathe that I've been turning those stylus's blanks with. Is there anyway I could chuck them up, and mount a dremel with stone to do it, or does it need to be too precise for something like that? I'm open for suggestions on what ever will do the job with desired results. I would most definatly buy The radial already ground, as That's one of the ones I would need to tool up on anyway, let me know If you set those up, you have My email. I need some sure setups for each size eventually. People around here all have there preference to what pin they like, whether or not It changes the hit, regardless in their mind it does, and sometimes that's really most of what's wrong with their game. what ever extra I can do to build their confidense, I would like to offer for them eventually.
Chris
Is the piloted 5/16x18 in that catalog the same type of tap?

Let me just say thanks to you also, Because you are also one of the major contributors that has helped me up to this point. You have took time in the past to answer more stupid questions from me than I can imagine, and can't say that would be easy for me to do, as I am sure there are others like Me. Even way back when I was a green wanna be with a pencil and exacto knife you took the time out to email. I am sure you must hear from alot of people like that and, must suck when they're not serious and just waste your time. Glad to know you keep the faith through all that. I can't imagine any purchase from you never being used in My shop, as It all will be used no matter how small or large It may become. Your stuff is great for limited space, for people to get their foot in the door doing repair to build up to buy more equipment, and moving into turning cues. The Platform for the equipment is versatile enough that no matter how advance the cuemaker gets, the equipment will always be usefull to them. Wish I had about 5 more of your deluxe setups, I could find a use for all. You have also provided advise And helped supply parts for My own projects unselfishly. Hopefully I can return the favor someday.

Thanks again, And Wish you all the luck and continued success, Look forward to hearing your input on this forum as well.

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Your last post layed It out perfectly for me, thanks a ton for the info. Greg

I notice you are in Florida. What part? If you are close by then you are more than welcome to come over to my shop sometime.
 
The tap is your worst enemy. Its not so much the accuracy of the hole, but the density of the wood. standard taps will wander badly if they encounter odd grain, birdseyes, etc.
the way to avoid this is to either cut your threads with a router, or use a tap and pin designed to go in straight. Radial taps and pins are a pefect example of smart engineering. The tap has a section at the end the same size as your hole which keeps it from being able to wander. The pin has a section in the middle the same size as the OD of the pin so you can bore your forearm to accept it.
I have installed regular 5/16 pins in difficult woods with a method I will outline below.
Center drill both ends of the pin.
Plug the hole in the back of the pin with wax.
Install the pin in a scrap piece of maple.
Cut the maple off at the back of the pin, reveal your center hole.
Put the pin between centers and cut the maple down to .5 or so.
Bore a .5 hole in your forearm, glue in your installed pin.
For piloted joints, push the pin/maple dowel down below the joint as far as you want the pilot to go.
This method may seem odd, but the pin will be PERFECT if your lathe is set up right.
 
Murray Tucker said:
I notice you are in Florida. What part? If you are close by then you are more than welcome to come over to my shop sometime.



That's Sounds like a winner if I can ever get down your way. Really apprietiate the kind offer. I've seen Your beautifull veneer work, and I remember the rsb, so it would be a thrill to see it in person. I am up north east of You in the oldest city, between jax. and dayt. Looks like I will be driving to orlando about 3-4 times a year to drop the old lady off at meetings associated with her work. Need to find something to keep me busy for the day when I'm down there? How long a drive to you from there? Not sure If I would have enough time to make the drive to you and back to pick her up or not. And can you recomend any pool rooms with 9 footers in the magic city?

Thanks for the wonderfull offer Murray,

Greg
 
Sheldon said:
The tap is your worst enemy. Its not so much the accuracy of the hole, but the density of the wood. standard taps will wander badly if they encounter odd grain, birdseyes, etc.
the way to avoid this is to either cut your threads with a router, or use a tap and pin designed to go in straight. Radial taps and pins are a pefect example of smart engineering. The tap has a section at the end the same size as your hole which keeps it from being able to wander. The pin has a section in the middle the same size as the OD of the pin so you can bore your forearm to accept it.
I have installed regular 5/16 pins in difficult woods with a method I will outline below.
Center drill both ends of the pin.
Plug the hole in the back of the pin with wax.
Install the pin in a scrap piece of maple.
Cut the maple off at the back of the pin, reveal your center hole.
Put the pin between centers and cut the maple down to .5 or so.
Bore a .5 hole in your forearm, glue in your installed pin.
For piloted joints, push the pin/maple dowel down below the joint as far as you want the pilot to go.
This method may seem odd, but the pin will be PERFECT if your lathe is set up right.



Now that's A good one, Don't know why i did not think of something along those lines, as I have done something simular in joint caps and other things I made, so I kind of follow you on it. For a burned out over thinker like me this even seems very logical. I actually ended up patching the cue that blew out with something like that. Only thing is i sleeved the outside of the joint with a long collar and It looked like crap. Shot very well, but sure not too much to look at.
I am assuming the wax is to keep your center clean of glue. How strong is this method structurally? And do You think a piloted, or for the lack of a better word double stacked tenon be anymore effective for piloting/centering of the pin package into the forearm, or would the 2 tenons work against each other, actually causing the same problem incountered from tapping straight into the forearm in the first place? It might be stronger If it did not cause problems aligning the pin. Also curious How the method would change or effect the hit. glue would be another question , same thing as the pin gets, or Wood glue.
I've got about 4 cues that are joined, and in the process of being finished up, some trim left and fnal passes to do. Have 2 with points, which ever one comes out the most uneven, I want to try this out on and see. thanks for the input on It. I am really just trying to find out what suits me right, and willing to try whatevers affordable at this time, to experiment with, So ever bit of input is very helpfull to me.
Oh, by the way you are correct on the grain issue, I probably over glued a little in this case, but believe there may have been a grain issue as well. The maple was tiger, and the break reminded me of a simular break I have seen in a certain make of cues that were having issues some time back. A buddy of ours had one, and just tapped the thing on the table, I know you hear stories, but I actually saw It happen, and he did not slam it. anyway the thing split, and snapped in two at a diagnal just under the joint. Strange thing to witness. The grain in the blowout reminded me of that, the way It split. anyway, He called them up, they were aware of the problem, and sent a new one to him. Even let him keep the old one, so no names. They obviously had a quality control issue, but were all on top of it just as one would expect from great customer asist., so that would not be fair to them. I think I would have at least wanted to see the cue first, they took care of It quickly with no problems.

Good to Meet you Thanks sheldon,


Greg
 
I am assuming the wax is to keep your center clean of glue.

Yep

How strong is this method structurally? And do You think a piloted, or for the lack of a better word double stacked tenon be anymore effective for piloting/centering of the pin package into the forearm, or would the 2 tenons work against each other, actually causing the same problem incountered from tapping straight into the forearm in the first place?

If you hold very tight tolerances, it should not make any difference in strength or hit. Not sure what you mean about double stacked...


It might be stronger If it did not cause problems aligning the pin. Also curious How the method would change or effect the hit. glue would be another question , same thing as the pin gets, or Wood glue.

Epoxy

I've got about 4 cues that are joined, and in the process of being finished up, some trim left and fnal passes to do. Have 2 with points, which ever one comes out the most uneven, I want to try this out on and see. thanks for the input on It. I am really just trying to find out what suits me right, and willing to try whatevers affordable at this time, to experiment with, So ever bit of input is very helpfull to me.
Oh, by the way you are correct on the grain issue, I probably over glued a little in this case, but believe there may have been a grain issue as well. The maple was tiger, and the break reminded me of a simular break I have seen in a certain make of cues that were having issues some time back. A buddy of ours had one, and just tapped the thing on the table, I know you hear stories, but I actually saw It happen, and he did not slam it. anyway the thing split, and snapped in two at a diagnal just under the joint. Strange thing to witness. The grain in the blowout reminded me of that, the way It split.

With woods that have horizontal grain in them, coring should be used. Get a gun drill and bore a 3/4 hole all the way through the forearm (before it is turned down, say at 1.5" round) and glue in a nice straight grained or plywood dowel. This will elliminate breakage like you mention. It also lets you use woods that would normally be too unstable, too light, or too heavy.
 
Sheldon said:
I am assuming the wax is to keep your center clean of glue.

Yep

How strong is this method structurally? And do You think a piloted, or for the lack of a better word double stacked tenon be anymore effective for piloting/centering of the pin package into the forearm, or would the 2 tenons work against each other, actually causing the same problem incountered from tapping straight into the forearm in the first place?

If you hold very tight tolerances, it should not make any difference in strength or hit. Not sure what you mean about double stacked...


It might be stronger If it did not cause problems aligning the pin. Also curious How the method would change or effect the hit. glue would be another question , same thing as the pin gets, or Wood glue.

Epoxy

I've got about 4 cues that are joined, and in the process of being finished up, some trim left and fnal passes to do. Have 2 with points, which ever one comes out the most uneven, I want to try this out on and see. thanks for the input on It. I am really just trying to find out what suits me right, and willing to try whatevers affordable at this time, to experiment with, So ever bit of input is very helpfull to me.
Oh, by the way you are correct on the grain issue, I probably over glued a little in this case, but believe there may have been a grain issue as well. The maple was tiger, and the break reminded me of a simular break I have seen in a certain make of cues that were having issues some time back. A buddy of ours had one, and just tapped the thing on the table, I know you hear stories, but I actually saw It happen, and he did not slam it. anyway the thing split, and snapped in two at a diagnal just under the joint. Strange thing to witness. The grain in the blowout reminded me of that, the way It split.

With woods that have horizontal grain in them, coring should be used. Get a gun drill and bore a 3/4 hole all the way through the forearm (before it is turned down, say at 1.5" round) and glue in a nice straight grained or plywood dowel. This will elliminate breakage like you mention. It also lets you use woods that would normally be too unstable, too light, or too heavy.


Sheldon,

Sounds good, I am able get the fit tight on my tenons without over doing It, so should have no problem pulling the tolerances close, I will finally be breaking down, and adding an indicator as well, so that should help make It all easier. The only thing I am curious about now, is center drilling the pin. Are you center drilling into rod cutoffs for your pin, or premade pin? I have threaded rod and premades. Wondering If I will have a problem center drilling the bullnose on the premade pin? LOL, I guess the best way for me to find out would be to try It, but figured I'd ask? Also what about mounting between centers, I am assuming you are talking about using something like 60 deg. centers to mount the pin instead of chucking one side of the pin. I have tried simular operations, and the thing will just spin in the centers instead of cutting/trimming the piece. Any suggestions? Or possibly I misunderstood how you mount the pin between centers? also should I have My router mounted to trim It, or is a good cutting tool in the post enough to get me by since It's such a short run?

Disregard the doublestack, basically I was talking about undercutting some of the tenon/sleeve to act as kind of a pilot tenon. Obviouly after thinking about it, I realized the size of It would not allow for It, and even If I made the larger tenon larger that would thin out the walls more on the bore, and would not be as strong structurally. I guess the right collar on It Might help hold the joint together, but why take the chance.

On the gun drill, This is another thing on my list I need to pickup, I have been balancing all my butts out by wood selection, and where they are located in the cue up to this point. Mostly coco, and bacote handles. We have a few of each still squared, ebony, purple heart,pink ivory, ossage, and others. Also have rounds hanging I need to start on, others to turn again I need to decide what I am going to do on them so I can cut them appropriately, and My father also wants to start mixing them up in the forearms so I do need one of those drills. Pluss hopefully the laminated would be easier to center pins, as well as balancing flexibility. I figure I will need to use both this method, as well as the more traditional, depending on what cue I'm building.

I have a box full of birdseye in raw dowel form probably 1 1/2 or over in dia.. the figure/patterns are nice in them, and grain runs nicely from what I can tell. Out of 2 of them I picked off the top, they ran about 16-20 per inch. Is that an acceptable amount of rings for a forearm? Some may have more or less, I have not gone through the whole box yet and seperated them. They do have a nice solid thump to them and feel solid. From the look of the ends they look as if they might machine well too.

what lenth on the bit? and does It need to be supported, or can I run It out of just a Tailstock?

Thanks for your input,

Greg
 
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