Joint Pin Opinions

JoeyInCali said:
Rolled paper is the easiest to thread .
Canvas and linen are tough on the tap and even the carbide threader .
Click to expand...
Thanks for all your advice. I tried tapping my first paper phenolic plug. I was unable to tap it with the normal minor. Everything was slipping. The torque was just too much.

I bored it out to the modified diameter and it was still very difficult. I ended up taking the tap out of the tail stock and holding it with a wrench. I got it in the end but very tough. I started on a joint protector so the slight runout is not noticeable.

Would a spring loaded center work to hold the tap in place while turning it with the wrench?
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Thanks for all your advice. I tried tapping my first paper phenolic plug. I was unable to tap it with the normal minor. Everything was slipping. The torque was just too much.

I bored it out to the modified diameter and it was still very difficult. I ended up taking the tap out of the tail stock and holding it with a wrench. I got it in the end but very tough. I started on a joint protector so the slight runout is not noticeable.

Would a spring loaded center work to hold the tap in place while turning it with the wrench?
Click to expand...
You Need a good collet in the rear chuck.
Gotta have a good on both ends.
Takes me about 5 passes for radial and Wavy1.
Tap by releasing the tailstock and slow speed spindle.
Go in maybe 4 initial threads, back out and do it 4 more times.
Wax helps.
I live thread 3/8 10 and 11.
 
JoeyInCali said:
You Need a good collet in the rear chuck.
Gotta have a good on both ends.
Takes me about 5 passes for radial and Wavy1.
Tap by releasing the tailstock and slow speed spindle.
Go in maybe 4 initial threads, back out and do it 4 more times.
Wax helps.
I live thread 3/8 10 and 11.
Click to expand...
Would love to live thread but not possible yet. I’ve seen your work and it is beautiful.

I have a mid America lathe so the rear chuck is a drill type chuck which the tap was spinning in. Are you suggesting I make a tiny collet for that or something else?
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Thanks for all your advice. I tried tapping my first paper phenolic plug. I was unable to tap it with the normal minor. Everything was slipping. The torque was just too much.

I bored it out to the modified diameter and it was still very difficult. I ended up taking the tap out of the tail stock and holding it with a wrench. I got it in the end but very tough. I started on a joint protector so the slight runout is not noticeable.

Would a spring loaded center work to hold the tap in place while turning it with the wrench?
Click to expand...
Are you tapping dry?
If so, Why?
Quality taps
They're called hand taps for a reason.
If you have any machines in your shop with cast iron beds,
This stuff works great, and it works on taps before use too!
 

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Example of taps

I bought an M18x2.5 tap off Amazon for Cuetec weight bolts.
What a piece of junk!
In the 90's, I asked Widell to make me a .281x10 tap for 3/8x10, it also works perfect on the modified 3/8x10.
That tap works better than any tap I've used supplied in this Industry and it's over 20 years old
 
Michael Webb said:
Are you tapping dry?
If so, Why?
Quality taps
They're called hand taps for a reason.
If you have any machines in your shop with cast iron beds,
This stuff works great, and it works on taps before use too!
Click to expand...
I was putting some wax on the tap. Had not heard of this so I will give it a try.
 
Michael Webb said:
I figured you didn't get the point.
No surprise there
Click to expand...

Boeshield is made to leave a very thin coat of wax when the petroleum distillates evaporate. This was from a Boeing engineer.

It's the same way liquid car wax works. It goes on wet and dries.

Solid wax is made to melt under heat and pressure.
 
Michael Webb said:
Example of taps

I bought an M18x2.5 tap off Amazon for Cuetec weight bolts.
What a piece of junk!
In the 90's, I asked Widell to make me a .281x10 tap for 3/8x10, it also works perfect on the modified 3/8x10.
That tap works better than any tap I've used supplied in this Industry and it's over 20 years old
Click to expand...
Widell does good work particularly if you're in a hurry. They inventory lots of oddballs and semi-finished stuff that can ship fast.
Regal Beloit (Regal Cutting Tools) also does the same thing.
Every Tap Mfg will make specials but these guys specialize in specials.
Racking my brain to think of one more. Been 40 yrs since I was in the cutting tool business.
 
3kushn said:
Widell does good work particularly if you're in a hurry. They inventory lots of oddballs and semi-finished stuff that can ship fast.
Regal Beloit (Regal Cutting Tools) also does the same thing.
Every Tap Mfg will make specials but these guys specialize in specials.
Racking my brain to think of one more. Been 40 yrs since I was in the cutting tool business.
Click to expand...
Widell made me wait a couple of weeks but they delivered the taps to the spec's I asked for.
I also tried North American,
Never again. They can't follow a straight line!
 
If your tap is wandering, you could resort to doing inserts. Tap your insert material, then chuck up on a pin and cut the OD of the insert after it's threaded. If your lathe is accurate that will give you threads that are nice and straight once they're glued into an accurate hole bored in the shaft.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Would love to live thread but not possible yet. I’ve seen your work and it is beautiful.

I have a mid America lathe so the rear chuck is a drill type chuck which the tap was spinning in. Are you suggesting I make a tiny collet for that or something else?
Click to expand...
I'm definitely a hack but what I've done when that happen is put vice grips on the tap between the drill chuck and the work, pad the bed with something let the vice grip lean on it. Like I said, hack.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
The Pechauer I have been playing with has a 5/16-14 pin. I am very happy with this cue and the pin has been reliable and stays secure. As I have started to make my own cues it was natural for me to go to what I knew for the joint pin and have installed this pin in the cues I have made so far.

I have been looking up all I can on different pins and most of the discussions descend into hit and feel.

As cuemakers, is it just personal preference for using one pin over another or are there structural or installation reasons.

Why choose 3/8-10 over 3/8-11 (or vice versa) or 3/8 versus ball joint.

I know there are a bunch of them. I wanted to hear about the pin rather than the feel since everyone argues about whether you can tell anyway.

Scott
Click to expand...

Anything but a uni-loc for me. My Predator P3 has a radial pin. Gets hard to find shafts for it.
 
dendweller said:
I'm definitely a hack but what I've done when that happen is put vice grips on the tap between the drill chuck and the work, pad the bed with something let the vice grip lean on it. Like I said, hack.
Click to expand...
Not really a hack, you just haven't found an easier way yet. Tapping shouldn't be hard.
 
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