Joint pin tapping

LittleDoc

Registered
Hey everyone, I’m new to the cue building world, and I’m practicing drilling and tapping for joint pin installs. I’m just curious how clean do the threads actually look when tapping say a 3/8x10 pin. I did one and the pin threads in fine, just want to make sure they are “good to go”.

Thanks,
Steve
 

Attachments

  • 86CA0B9C-5C67-4B12-8C99-9C801DCA85AD.jpeg
    86CA0B9C-5C67-4B12-8C99-9C801DCA85AD.jpeg
    12.7 KB · Views: 133
Center drill, 5/16 drill bit in tailstock drill to depth, tap in tailstock, run the tap in by spinning shaft
"tap by spinning shaft" Do you mean under power? I would recommend turning by hand and applying light pressure on the tailstock. Tap the same way you would with metal - 2 or 3 turns in and then back out to clear the chips. Rinse and repeat.
HTH
Gary
 
Really? Everything I have ever researched is saying for 3/8-10 tap, use 5/16 drill bit….
I don't know where you are doing your research but I do know basic machining math and constant formulas. The formula for determining a tap drill, imperial or metric, is to take the major diameter, in this case .375", and subtract the pitch of the tread from it, in this case .100 for 10 threads per inch. So the nominal would be .275". Internal threads would have a little bigger tolerance size so a 9/32" (.281) would be ideal for tap drill, where as external threads would generally be sized nominal to maybe .005" under so .370/.375, to allow clearance. Tolerances are determined based on the class of fit required.
 
I took everyone’s advice and here was todays attempt…. It looks better to me
Looks better. Next step before you finish drill and tap, Add a concave to the hole. 7/16" center drill works great for spinning between centers and also for facing off the shaft and butt without running in to the threads
 

Attachments

  • IMG_120621_073341.jpg
    IMG_120621_073341.jpg
    320.4 KB · Views: 148
Last edited:
Looks better. Next step before you finish drill and tap, Add a concave to the hole. 7/16" center drill works great for spinning between centers and also for facing off the shaft and butt without running in to the threads
Oh I gotcha…. You’re saying so there is small clearance between the joint pin and the face. That way when you face off the joint you don’t hit the pin
 
Use some wax on the tap and get yourself a Starrett 93B and a spring loaded tap guide.
A 3/8-10 hole to fit a McDermott is around .281" if your using a modified pin .307"/308" is correct.
 
I add a bit of beeswax on the tap thread to make a cleaner look to those burrs.
Are you talking about the shaft threads or the butt that your going to epoxy the joint screw?
If your talking about the butt, do you clean the wax out before epoxing?
I've never used wax for either, but that's just me.
 
Back
Top