Joint-refit on a vintage Brunswick..?

[Peer]

I wonder if it's possible to fit a new joint (including a collar) on this vintage Brunswick butt -- a new joint that can take a modern shaft.

Since the butt is already fairly light, 12.9 oz, I would prefer not get it any lighter -- I'm aiming at an 18 oz cue. My objective is to preserve the funky old vintage look of this cue, while still having it play like a dream.

-- peer

 

[Mase]

I wonder if it's possible to fit a new joint (including a collar) on this vintage Brunswick butt -- a new joint that can take a modern shaft.

Since the butt is already fairly light, 12.9 oz, I would prefer not get it any lighter -- I'm aiming at an 18 oz cue. My objective is to preserve the funky old vintage look of this cue, while still having it play like a dream.

-- peer

Why not have a shaft made with the original fitting?? To change the joints you would have to try to make up for the length loss when you remove the aluminum insert and pin.

 

[ratcues]

I've made several shafts to fit these old Bruns. I can do any kind of shaft including Predaotrs and OB1.

 

[desi2960]

just a thought

why not replace the aluminimum, with stainless steel. that would look close but give you more weight?

 

[Peer]

Mase wrote:
> Why not have a shaft made with the original fitting??

It's aluminum for cripes sake --uugh!!!

-- peer

 

[Peer]

desi2960 wrote:
> why not replace the aluminum, with stainless steel.

Yes, that's exactly what I want. Any takers?

-- peer

 

[ratcues]

I'm always up for it. PM and email sent.

 

[KJ Cues]

Mase wrote:
> Why not have a shaft made with the original fitting??

It's aluminum for cripes sake --uugh!!!

-- peer

Actually, aluminum very closely mimics the 'hit' of wood. My guess is, that's why it was chosen as this cues joint mrtl. Dufferin made a similar cue with aluminum joint, which I first thought was what you were showing.

 

[rhncue]

Actually, aluminum very closely mimics the 'hit' of wood. My guess is, that's why it was chosen as this cues joint mrtl. Dufferin made a similar cue with aluminum joint, which I first thought was what you were showing.

Dufferin made this cue also, I believe. Brunswick quit making cues in, I believe, 1963. They then had different builders build cues for them.

Dick

 

[Peer]

KJ Cues wrote:
> Actually, aluminum very closely mimics the 'hit' of wood.
> My guess is, that's why it was chosen as this cues joint mrtl.


I blush to confess to have to ask this; what kind of joint is this, are there any shafts still made for this sort of joint?

-- peer

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Dufferin made this cue also, I believe. Brunswick quit making cues in, I believe, 1963. They then had different builders build cues for them.

Dick

And I believe you are right. I think its a Dufferin not Brunswick

 

[ratcues]

KJ Cues wrote:
> Actually, aluminum very closely mimics the 'hit' of wood.
> My guess is, that's why it was chosen as this cues joint mrtl.


I blush to confess to have to ask this; what kind of joint is this, are there any shafts still made for this sort of joint?

-- peer

There are not any off-the-shelf shafts to fit this joint but it can easily be made.

 

[KJ Cues]

I wonder if it's possible to fit a new joint (including a collar) on this vintage Brunswick butt -- a new joint that can take a modern shaft.

Since the butt is already fairly light, 12.9 oz, I would prefer not get it any lighter -- I'm aiming at an 18 oz cue. My objective is to preserve the funky old vintage look of this cue, while still having it play like a dream.

-- peer

It seems that part of your original objective is to increase the wght. A steel joint will do that, by about 1 oz. Since that will be adding wght. to the front end, you would have a wght. bolt installed in the butt of equal wght. so as to maintain your original balance point. The result is that you'll have increased the cues wght. by approx. 2 oz and not changed the balance point. You can add more wght. to the butt, via wght. bolt and not move the balance point to any great degree. Whether that's good or bad depends on where you hold the cue. If your grip hand is normally nearer the butt of the cue, a slight change in bal. point shouldn't be an issue.

The collar swap is not as simple as just removing the alum. collar and installing steel. That alum. joint has a tenon that extends into the handle approx. 2". Once the jnt. collar 'unit' is removed, a wooden dowel is installed that would extend out, above the handle where the steel joint would be installed. Drill/tap, install pin (suggest 5/16 x 14) and you're free to chose just about any performance shaft you like.

I do this work also but if shipping costs are a concern, Ryan is closer to you.